Quote:
Originally Posted by wulfgang
Hey, sikeston, I know you are the outrunner guru here, but I guess I missed some of your old threads. I just went back and read some of your threads and it seems like you had the same problem at first before changing the gearing to get the low speed to work better. I am not sure if I can change diff gearing like you did, but yeah, that would be a great way to get the torque I want.
Also, with respect to wheelies, they are of course a LOT easier in a truck. I have yet to see an outrunner setup in a buggy that can wheelie, but I have seen it done with inrunners.
So are you running 8S? I'm thinking of dropping to 4S, but I need a higher kv outrunner to do that. Right now, I'm pretty limited to the Turnigy stuff because the 8 mm motor shaft fits perfectly in a Hot Bodies drive cup. But I would like to use a higher kv motor with 4S, say 800 or so.
With the soldering, I was estimating an upper limit. I am probably in the 2 sec range, but probably not down to 1 sec because I wanted to make sure the flux is burned out. I have the Weller 80 W pencil iron with the big chisel head. Looks like 1/4-3/8" wide. Definitely the correct iron.
So have any of you guys ever ruined an A123 by soldering or is this just speculation?
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The Video was shot running 6S Lipo.
On the Hot Bodies Diff cup, that is what I used on the diff pinion with this setup. The other end of the cvd was 6mm, same as the shaft of the motor.
I'm sure you could find some 6mm diff cups that would be compatible if you look around.
The right outrunner in your setup will wheelie, and even make it tough to build diffs strong enough to take the abuse.
Do alot of research before you buy. Before you settle on things.
