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mistercrash · 05.15.2009, 09:41 AM

6 MM ALUMINUM MOTOR PLATE

Something I did while the chassis and rockers are taking a bath in black RIT dye. I am using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I painted them black with high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff. I made a carbon fiber motor plate before this and I used it for a while but I was having some temp issues with the motor. My guess is that the aluminum motor plate will help dissipate heat better than carbon fiber.

Since this extra motor plate sets the motor back 3 mm I had to trim the rear shock tower for the back of the motor.

I also had to sand down the fins behind the slipper back plate. The slipper disk pictured here is the carbon fiber one I don’t use anymore.

And this is an idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out.

On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily.

An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount.

The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly.

Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot.

	(#2)
mistercrash Guelph, Canada, eh! Offline Posts: 1,083 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada	05.15.2009, 09:41 AM 6 MM ALUMINUM MOTOR PLATE Something I did while the chassis and rockers are taking a bath in black RIT dye. I am using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I painted them black with high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff. I made a carbon fiber motor plate before this and I used it for a while but I was having some temp issues with the motor. My guess is that the aluminum motor plate will help dissipate heat better than carbon fiber. Since this extra motor plate sets the motor back 3 mm I had to trim the rear shock tower for the back of the motor. I also had to sand down the fins behind the slipper back plate. The slipper disk pictured here is the carbon fiber one I don’t use anymore. And this is an idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out. On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily. An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount. The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly. Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot. No brain, no headaches.