[DrKnow65]

On to the review.

First impression out of the box was that this thing is going to be a bit of a pain to work on.

First order of business was to strip out the RTR motor and ESC. This stuff is cheap, and though I was intent on shooting a quick video of it running on the RTR gear,
all I had to put in it as far as ~7v batt's was an old MaxAmps 2S 5000 that started as 3S till a cell let go and MA wouldn't cover it a month after I bought it... jack asses.
I figured the lack of speed couldn't be illustrated with this batt as it would have compounded the poor power ;-)

The motor screws are not easily accessable, so I decided to just pull the CD to swap out the motor.
No sneaking the CD out, the shafts don't give you sufficient room to lift it out.
I ended up pulling the rear end off to swap the motor.
Even though I don't intend on swapping gears or motors on a regular basis I think I'll look into a mount I saw that has the motor mounted on a slide in piece that would make this SO much easier.

Old motor out, temporary 2300kv 36mm ammo motor in. I had a hard time setting the mod1 gear mesh because the 11T stock gear that came with the RTR isn't drilled centered?!?!
It wobbles a few thousandths so the mesh is OK/tight, rotate 180' you get OK/loose.
So it looks like I'll steer clear of the Ofna pinions.
I'll get buy with this pinion till I swap up to the MMP/2400kv.

The RTR ESC was near impossible to pry off the chassis without scratching the aluminum but I managed to pull it off.
I HATE servo tape! was a pain to clean the remnants off the chassis so I could put down some industrial hook & loop for the temp MMM install.

While I had the CD out I spun the diffs and they feel like they have silicone in them, some of the early 10SC's only came with grease in the diffs so it looks like I got a recent edition.

The next thing I noticed was all the slop in this truck. The pillow ball suspension doesn't have big grub screws to hold the hubs on like the Hyper 7 does.
Instead it has little plates to secure the hubs. I will look into a solution to shim or grind the assembly to tighten it up some.

The steering posts are sloppy too and there is vertical play in them.
I'm guessing I will find they are a bushing setup and I'll shim them and swap to bearings at some point.
I also don't care for the "bent wire" center link, someone has got to make aluminum steering posts that use an actual ball end link in the center...
We'll see what I can turn/fab up.

The next thing that had me shaking my head was the front CVD's bend if you droop the suspension too much! They are too far into the diff cups.
I fixed this by screwing the pillow balls out ~3/32" and lengthening the steering tie rods an equal amount.
Now I can back the grub screws out all the way to the end of the shock travel without binding the CVD.

The shocks are pretty nice out of the box and should work well for now.
I bought an 8T-E roller and I'll pull it's shocks to go on this 10SC, the 8T is getting 17mm's.

The 10SC seems suprisingly weight forward??? This may change some with the MMP/2400kv and 4S battery,
but I may end up moving things around on the chassis to change the bias.
I know the "bump" chassis has the ability to move the battery tray back another 15mm...