Quote:
Originally Posted by ZippyBasher
You guys are way over-thinking this. take out all the screws that have to to do with the chassis. and apply the new chassis. The only weird part is the ribbed metal tube that takes up the spot on the chassis where the steering posts go. Just mimick the plastic version.
The Driveshafts will fit perfectly with supplied cups. They will be too short with the CD mount as the trans cups are further spaced than a 1/8 CD. I used a XXL Rear Dogbone on my CD Maxx with FLM Chassis monoblock. So I think something around 105-110mm long should work with no Mono for the rear. Thread is avail on my sig.
And By the Way The FLM chassis and dirveshafts are some beefy and seriously great Additions. 2 years beating it with 6s and the cups look new and the shafts are worn but still work fine. chassis still looks shelf queen worthy.
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I just wanted to know what the screws and little aluminum piece that isn't the post that came in the plastic bag are for?? Are they just for the battery straps or is there addl pieces (screws) that are for the swap over?
Looking at where the bulks mount up and stuff it appears that the diffs from the stock bolt right up as it appeared from when I looked at it out in the garage still in the bag. Don't want to open it until I'm ready to build it so I don't lose the screws in the bag.
It's still in the bag till Tuesday when I can work on it with the way things are here around the house. To many graduation open houses to go to this weekend..............
Thanks for the other info as well.