Quote:
|
Originally Posted by suicideneil
I did yes, but that is also a worry for me. I have, um, stubby fingers so I found it impossible to seperate the deans without clamping onto each half with some pliers and then pulling them apart. Otherwise I would have to grab the wires to disconnect them, and thats a big no-no. They are great pieces, and the metal-metal contact is much better than a tamiya plug, but I think I'll have a bash at the soldering trick. If not then I will buy some deans pig-tails, and just solder them onto the batteries and esc- even I can manage that ( batteries dont melt like plastic plugs I hope...). You never know, the HVmaxx doesnt get that hot anyway so I might not need the deans anyway- Im not a serious racer after all, just a general basher/fast driver.
|
Besides being crimped on a huge source of resistance/heat is simply the poor connection at the plugs.It's a slip fit with little in the way of tension devices.Honestly you'd be far better off getting good quality solder and an iron that's capable of heating the solder tab quick enough that the heat doesn't migrate to the plastic housings before you get it to flow onto the surface.Tinning everything first and then letting them cool before doing the final solder joint goes miles towards keeping the plastic housing intact IMHO.
I use a weller 140/100 watt solder gun for 95% of my battery and connector soldering requirements, and smaller irons for small work like soldering an antennae onto a circuit board
I call Tamiya Plugs "Hand warmers" because they get so hot when trying to allow 50-100 amps flow through them :005:
sorry to be so discouraging
pinolelst