Can anyone help?! Important MMM question.

[Ryu James]

So tonight my 2nd MMM died. but here is my question. Both of my MMMs did not die while they were running, like it seems is the case with most of them i read about in the forums. My MMMs simply would not turn on one day out of the blue. The first one I ran about 10 minutes on 3 occasions and then the 4th time i go to drive, it wont turn on. My 2nd MMM i drove 3 or 4 times for about 30-45minutes each time. It ran perfectly too. Never over heated. But the same thing happened. When i got to the track tonight to race the thing would not turn on. The funny thing is that earlier today i checked it and when i switched it on nothing happened. so i switched it off and tried again and then it worked. so i thought it would be good to go. but 3 hours later at the track the damn thing would not come on. These symptoms are making me wonder if there is just some short in the switch or something.

Has anyone else seen these symptoms? Is this a definite failure and how other MMMs have failed or is this possibly a short and can be fixed? Please share your knowledge Brushless Kings! Thanks.

[hoovhartid]

When I was at the track with DickyT, that happened to him. He cut the switch and hot wired it, and was good to go. Mine on the other hand was truly dead. (I knew because it wouldnt link to my laptop)

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by hoovhartid

When I was at the track with DickyT, that happened to him. He cut the switch and hot wired it, and was good to go. Mine on the other hand was truly dead. (I knew because it wouldnt link to my laptop)

how do i cut the switch and hot wire it?

[blueb8llz]

i had the same thing happen to my v1. it did this once only after about 20 hours run time.
it wouldnt turn on....unplugged lipos, waited 10 sec. and it worked all of a sudden.
and its still running strong now, and its had about another 20 hours run time since that odd failure.

[hoovhartid]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

how do i cut the switch and hot wire it?

cut the switch off the end of the wires. expose the wires and twist them together. The ESC turns on and off when you plug and unplug the batts at that point.

all a switch does is connect and disconnect the two wires that run to it.


*edit* dont forget to heatshrink any exposed wire

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

If you didnt want to hot wire the switch you could get another switch. (doesn't have to be the same one from Castle) BrianG i think posted a link to a good toggle switch somewhere on here

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

I searched Radioshack and I think this was the switch
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

[Happywing]

Holy crap, that's a heavy duty switch! I use a switch for the Mamba Max. It's a much better switch than the one that comes with the Monster.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by DRIFT_BUGGY

I searched Radioshack and I think this was the switch
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

lol, that IS heavy duty! 10A. It'll work for sure, but a 3A version would be cheaper. Juist go there and look for any of the mini (not sub-mini - those tend to break easier) SPST switches with a sealed frame...

[Ryu James]

so i cut off the switch and wired up the red and black together. the MMM fired right up. been running fine now. i bet my first MMM was the same problem. it had the exact same symptoms. too bad i already sent it in. so now i think i have a good system to make a MMM last. remove fan, cut out casing to expose heatsink for cooling, and install quality switch (or remove altogether). these 3 steps seem to prove helpful and having a MMM that will run trouble free. so far......
time will tell.

DOH, that is the same thing that happened to me, I just sent mine back to Castle today to get inline for a V3. I had suspected that it might have been a switch problem myself too. I didnt find this post until now and didnt want to do anything to the MMM that might void my warranty on it.

[E-Revonut]

I removed the switch, twisted the wires together, soldered, and shrink wrapped it after it screwed me in the main at the rcm bash. My battery wires hit the switch and turned it off TWICE in the main. Didn't happen in either qualifier or my hours of bashing with it. Now I know it will be trouble free.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by FastXR

DOH, that is the same thing that happened to me, I just sent mine back to Castle today to get inline for a V3. I had suspected that it might have been a switch problem myself too. I didnt find this post until now and didnt want to do anything to the MMM that might void my warranty on it.

yeah, i suspected it was the switch on my first one too but didnt check it cuz all you hear about is how the things fail, so i just sent it in.

so after seeing other posts in this thread with the toggle switch i drove to my local Radio Shack and picked up some toggles for all my MMMs. (buggy and truggy). i will be throwing those on standard now when the MMM comes out of the box. not even gonna chance it. the toggles look cool too. i picked up like 5 of 'em just to put them in all my cars. thanks for that tip guys.

btw, the toggle mounts perfectly on the tekno V3 radio deck. looks great next to the chopped MMM and timy spektrum reciever.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by DRIFT_BUGGY

I searched Radioshack and I think this was the switch
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

thanks for the tips DriftBuggy and BrianG. here is my newly mounted radioshack toggle switch....modified, of course. instead of the nuts and washers it comes with i used a knurled aluminum knob from an antenna kit. i also cut the handle on the switch down a bit. i dont want it to flip off if i end up on my shell. i actually had to cut the aluminum nut down a bit too so it would fit nice. anyway, works great and looks cool too, if i do say so myself.

I wonder if Castle knows that they seem to have a switch problem as well as the other issues, hopefully they do and will be able to put a different switch on it for the V3s