Maximizer X75 Maxx adapters for Nitro Stampede

[Rusty4Ever]

I realize this is a pre-sale forum; but I ordered these today for my electric Stampede today (with Nitro front spindle conversion).

Now it shows item is now unavailable; did my order cause this? I've not gotten an email response yet.

I specified in the comments I wanted the Nitro Stampede version to fit the Maxx wheels, & I believe it's correct for my application; tho it's electric, I have front Nitro spindles & have done the "wide" conversion to the front & will be using RPM's StableMaxx offset rims. I should be fine right?

The picture is confusing to me, I see the rear hex drives clear enough, the front bearing/spindle is less clear; do these fit inside the Maxx wheel hex??
EDIT: On Maximizer's website, it appears the front pieces hold the 5x11 bearings on both sides of the Maxx rim so the fronts spin without wobble. Hope I get sent the correct Nitro part, will probably want to get the Fastlane extended chassis too. :024:

Thanks for any help with this. Great site/products by the way :027: Wish I would have found it earlier :007:

[MaxxFusion]

Yes your order caused them to go out of stock. You got the last set that was in stock. You should have gotten an email from the store with the order receipt. You will recieve an email once your item has shipped as well.

[Rusty4Ever]

Okay Thank You. Excellent then, so I assume it's the Nitro part I needed & I have my Stampede "equal" arms/Stablemaxx rims ready to accept them.

Now I just need a good brushless setup/alum diff to push the extra weight :027:

Thanks again :003:

[MaxxFusion]

Well this is the right place to get the right brushless setup and the steel diffs.

I have the Lehner 4200 and MGM 80 in my FLM rusty.

[Rusty4Ever]

Originally Posted by MaxxFusion

Well this is the right place to get the right brushless setup and the steel diffs.

I have the Lehner 4200 and MGM 80 in my FLM rusty.

I see the steel diff, nice, I have alum idler in now.

MGM 80 looks good too; I converted my old Rusty to a Stampede after I got my Tmaxx (I love the 3hr bashing sessions, from motor to servo cover nothing is stock, full rollcage, it's a tank). So I'd like to setup up the Pede for quiet "neighborhood" bashing. It was good as a Rusty with alum hubs & 5x11's at the wheels. BMS620MG on 6.1v (regulated) to turn, end points set.

I run 7-cell packs (2100-3300's, 23-33amps), as that fits my planes too, 12ga, deans, build my own 5A BEC's (to run BMS servos usually), & use inductors to rid any glitches (Hitec FM gear, but BL helis make "e-noise").

Lehner 4200 seems a popular choice, it's currently out. Good quality at a bit higher price than say a Feigao...both seem fine to me.

I see the Feigao 540 8S is 81A (can the MGM80 take this?)

Also I've heard the 380C's spool up faster (like a 8T,7T,6T) but the 540 has the torque (maybe a 380C-6L?, I don't see many L's or XL's here). Kinda of a toss eh? But the 380C might be more efficient (except for my Maxx wheels maybe). I'd like to stay under 80A full tilt (if possible) and still make the Pede with Maxx tires jump around for awhile...

Current setup with Masher 2K's is Futaba 330CR clone ESC (B1006, $30) and Orion 17x2 Method R ($15). Bashing hard (full throttle/brakes) I get 10mins on 7 GP3300's. Like to at least keep this runtime. Should be easy with the right BL motor right? Except this time I'm pushing the big Maxx meats so I probably just negated (if not worse) the BL motor efficiency I would get on my NIMH packs... then again the Maxx wheels don't seem "that" much heavier than the M2K's... haven't weighed them yet.

In short, 8-10min runtime (7 GP3300's) would be nice without having an overly hot motor/esc, with at least 16-17T brushed performance, using, & without killing my current batts; is this possible?

[Gustav]

Originally Posted by Rusty4Ever

In short, 8-10min runtime (7 GP3300's) would be nice without having an overly hot motor/esc, with at least 16-17T brushed performance, using, & without killing my current batts; is this possible?

The basic 4200 would be a real nice motor for you IMO.I can get around 8 mins from mine from 8 gp2200s so this will easily get the runtimes you want with alot more torque than a 15T brushed.On 6 cells the torque and acceleration is still there just not the speed,you'll see high 30's quite easily on 7 cells.I get 45 mph(gps) from this motor in a light xxxt on 8 cells.I'd go with a 540 for the bigger tyres,it'll like the load better.The 4200 is a great motor to have for 1/10th stuff,will run from 6 to 10 cells NiMH or 2-3s lipo quite happily.

[Rusty4Ever]

Thanks for the reply.

I've heard it takes around 8cells tho for the 4200 to really wake up. I've got only 7's, & they aren't exactly new either. My info on the 4200 is that it's a "up to 600watt", 45A BL motor. Unsure of it's "size" as well.

I know the Feigao 380C-6L is 1/8" shaft, integrated heatsink, & about 4900k/v and 69A. Half the 4200's price, no doubt the 4200 is higher qual. I've been told this longer arm 380C can torque similar to the 540S's, at a higher spool up rate. The BK7018 ESC is attractive to me because of price, & I don't think I can even go over or near 70A on my batts (unless replaced).

I did weigh the Masker 2K's on Traxxas rims vs T-maxx tires/foams on RPM Stablemaxx claw rims, barely 3ozs diff per wheel added, I thought it would be more, thankfully it isn't & my brushed motor can almost manage it without much trouble.

I just like to jump & bash my Stampede, so I gear it for quick bursts to hit a ramp; topspeed isn't important as I don't use it for that, 25-30mph is plenty & with 5.75" tires I gotta gear down on Stampede's trans anyway to get the accel... so a high K/V fast spool motor I'd guess is helpful if the longer armature can make the torque.

[Gustav]

Well you can't argue with the price of the 380c,plus i think they're in stock,4900kv would be as high as i'd go(don't think these are loaded kv values though).One thing i would say though is i personally don't buy into the faster spool up theory in a 2wd vehicle,for touring cars i can see the advantage but in a ST unless you're running spikes on grass you'll never have the traction to accelerate as fast as the 540 can spool up.partly why i suggested the 4200 is the runtimes and also the torque,the take off is quick from 6 cells.Having said that i think the 380c could work very well on the lower gearing you're talking about,i think a lower kv 540 would take off as quick though geared for the same speed(on a higher gearing).Remember you can gear a slower turning big motor higher so it doesn't necessarily need to spool up as fast to have the same acceleration and top speed.Just food for thought.

[Rusty4Ever]

Ability to gear the 540 can's higher tho doesn't apply to directly in my case right because I'm not into topspeeds? So for my quick bursts to my ramp either would probably do, but I'm suspecting the 380C (L) would do it at lower amps overall (I'm hoping).

Far as traction goes, I agree, 2WD is rather weak. But putting the Tmaxx tires on my e-Stampede has made it heavy, like a poor man's 2WD Emaxx, just on one battery/motor & lighter. Traction is decent. So heavy, it now prefers the "long arm" of my S600 airplane motor (these are great for $15, internal fan, last long, no heat, just not many RPMs) because of it's torque instead of my 17x2 540.

I guess for my app either 380-L/540 BL would do & both have plus and minus. Tuff to say what's better with so many variables. I believe I read on here someone who put together a e-Stampede with Maxx wheels?

[Gustav]

Originally Posted by Rusty4Ever

Ability to gear the 540 can's higher tho doesn't apply to directly in my case right because I'm not into topspeeds? So for my quick bursts to my ramp either would probably do, but I'm suspecting the 380C (L) would do it at lower amps overall (I'm hoping).

I was saying that a lower kv 540 motor(like a 4200) geared to the same speed as a faster turning 380(like a 4900)on the same voltage doesn't need to spool up as fast to give the same acceleration.Higher gearing ratio yes but not geared to a higher speed,if you see what i mean.:032:

I agree,i think either would work for you,i'd probably try a 380c considering the price.

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by Rusty4Ever

I believe I read on here someone who put together a e-Stampede with Maxx wheels?

A few of us have Pede with Maxx wheels. I'm working on finishing mine up this week with RPM Stablemaxx wheels and Panther Komodo tires. I'll be running a Feigao 8S and BK 9920 in mine. I also have everything that FLM makes in Aluminum for the Pede. It will be a bit heavy, but the 8S should do fine on it, especially with more than 6 cells.

[Rusty4Ever]

skellyo - Those panther tires are the low-profile spike type right? Real light I believe. The Maxx Chevron tire is a big leadfoot :eek:

My Futaba clone ESC finally thermal shut down at 300F tonight trying to push the heavy Pede so brushless wins by default.

I ordered a Feigao 380C-6L tonight. Ordered a Warrior 7018 with Reverse to control it. On 7 GP3300's, how strong is this combo? I have the alum idler, but is there a need to limit the throttle on my transmitter (diff gear, driveshafts, etc)? Not quite sure on the BL gearing on 5.75" tires, but I have many pinions/spurs to try. I know the BK 70's thermal at 110C but I hope not to try that.

I don't have any aluminum; but those RPM StableMaxx rims are really nice, I used HPI nitro Rush front arms (strong, $8) in front to make the arms equal length all around.

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by Rusty4Ever

skellyo - Those panther tires are the low-profile spike type right? Real light I believe. The Maxx Chevron tire is a big leadfoot :eek:

My Futaba clone ESC finally thermal shut down at 300F tonight trying to push the heavy Pede so brushless wins by default.

I ordered a Feigao 380C-6L tonight. Ordered a Warrior 7018 with Reverse to control it. On 7 GP3300's, how strong is this combo? I have the alum idler, but is there a need to limit the throttle on my transmitter (diff gear, driveshafts, etc)? Not quite sure on the BL gearing on 5.75" tires, but I have many pinions/spurs to try. I know the BK 70's thermal at 110C but I hope not to try that.

I don't have any aluminum; but those RPM StableMaxx rims are really nice, I used HPI nitro Rush front arms (strong, $8) in front to make the arms equal length all around.

The stock Maxx tires and wheels weigh 307g each and the RPM stablemaxx wheels with Panther Komodos and Maxx Adapters/Bearings weigh 159g each. It's a huge difference in unsprung weight. That's over a pound of difference total with all 4 tires/wheels.

And the Komodos are these:
http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=PTT140ms

I finally got my shocks and bearings in today, so I hope to be putting this thing together for some pics over the next couple of nights.

[Rusty4Ever]

Yep when I weighed my Maxx tire vs Masher 2K that was on the Stampede, times 4, it came to 1lb.

I know it's huge, it kills the truck's performance trying to spin up that weight, you really gotta watch temps (gas or electric motors); I just happen to like the monster truck thing (I converted from a Rusty & I have a nitro 2WD ST racer; you should see my caged Tmaxx, Moab 40's are 7" x 4"). Seems like current draw on grass with Masher 2Ks = current with Maxx tires on pavement.

I like the big tires for jumping; less things break (unless a cartwheel occurs), & clearance on rough terrain (like rock crawling, without the crawling). They just don't make any that are lightweight.

I'm sure my Stampede is over 5lbs, and the extra pound is at the worst place, but carefully monitored I think the brushless can easily do the job (Emaxx is heavier & still use 1 BL motor, but more cells); hope my batteries hold up. Wanted to get some new GP3300 7's, but the $80 pair that was on here is out of stock.

Anyone know if the 7 cell IB3800 zapped kit here is a complete kit for making a pack (there's no pic)? And how many batt bars do you get for $.050? Also no pic.

[squeeforever]

1 batter bar. also, i would cetainly go with ib's.