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View Poll Results: what combo do you have
MMM ESC + Motor combo 16 57.14%
MMM ESC + another motor 7 25.00%
another ESC + MMM motor 2 7.14%
another ESC + another motor 3 10.71%
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Mamba Monster Combo 2200KV or MM ESC+Neu; why?
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Riko
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Mamba Monster Combo 2200KV or MM ESC+Neu; why? - 11.01.2009, 09:41 AM

Hi,

I see a lot of 1/8 trucks and buggies with a Mamba Monster combo (ESC + the 2200kv).
But I also see alot of set ups with only the MM ESC + another motor, (a Neu motor mostly).

So I was wondering why do some prefer to use the MM ESC with a different motor?
Is the Castle Creations motor 2200kv such a "bad" motor? I thought it was created in assocation with Neu....and that is a reliable brand.



I am asking because I am planning to buy a 1/8 truck (most likely a Associated 8t) with a Monster Mamba ESC.
But I am not quite sure wich motor to get:
- the combo (MM ESC + 2200kv motor)
- or just the MM ESC + another motor, maybe a Neu, but what is the difference I wonder.

And the pack I was considering to go with that all would be 1 5S lipo with high mAh.



Any advice is good, thx!
Erik


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Last edited by Riko; 11.01.2009 at 09:43 AM.
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Arct1k
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11.01.2009, 10:17 AM

Uber serious racers will like the sensored option on the Tekin.

The main reason all don't go for the CC motor is that it only gives them one KV option...

I'm speculating but I'd guess that was part of the licencing deal with Steve Neu - Otherwise he just gave away most of his business...
   
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Riko
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11.01.2009, 10:50 AM

but bottom line the CC motor isn't a bad motor?

another question:
I found this on Tower Hobbies http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYJJ5&P=ML


the brushless system is sold seperate from the E-revo and all seems already soldered, so you would only have to install it to your rc.
Basically it is the same as the Mamba Monster combo.

But you will need 2 lipo batteries with those included battery cables.
If I would like to run 1 5s lipo (18.5V) with about 5000 mAh; how would that translate in 2 lipo's?
I suppose you don't have to plug in 2 5S lipo's of 5000 mAh, so wich 2 lipos would you need to have the same result as that 1 5S lipo with 5000mAh?


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Snipin_Willy
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11.01.2009, 11:05 AM

It would be a couple hundred dollars less to buy the MMM/2200 combo that didn't have TRX stamped on it from tower hobbies. But to answer your question that combo is rigged so the connected batteries will be in series. If you want to run parallel packs you'd need to do some rewiring to it. To run 2 lipos in series to get the same affect as 1 5s 5000 pack would be a 3s 5000 + 2s 5000, matched packs. If you rewired the connectors for parallel it would be two 5s 2500mah packs connected in parallel.
   
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Riko
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11.01.2009, 11:16 AM

yeah, actually, it is kinda steep the money they ask for actually the same package when you can buy the real thing and do the soldering yourself I guess....

and where does it say that that specific combo is in "series"?


thx for you help


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Snipin_Willy
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11.01.2009, 11:25 AM

2 reasons.
1) I traced the wires in the picture.
2) the ERBE is wired for 2 packs connected in series. You don't hear of people running 5s in their ERBE, only 4s and 6s.
   
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Nard Cox
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11.01.2009, 11:48 AM

Riko Riko Riko ..... what are you doing ... :(

You have had like three runs with you stock Rustler, than upgraded it for like 500 euro, didn't drive it yet and already planning on buying a truggy ...

My advice:

Forget about this, close the thread, go out and enjoy your Rustler! In a while when you can't get the pleasure from your Rustler anymore and want something else browse the market and search info (most of the Q's you ask are common knowledge after some healthy info browsing).
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E-Revonut
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11.01.2009, 12:27 PM

I think that there are two main reasons you might see a Mamba Monster with a motor other than the CC/Neu. First is the kv choice, some want a lower kv to run higher voltage and not have to use a tiny pinion to gear it down enough for racing. Second is that many people have been in the brushless game long before the Monster combo came out. I have been running a Tekno Neu on a MMM, the esc came out about 6 months or so before the motor was available.


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Riko
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11.01.2009, 01:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snipin_Willy View Post
2 reasons.
1) I traced the wires in the picture.
2) the ERBE is wired for 2 packs connected in series. You don't hear of people running 5s in their ERBE, only 4s and 6s.
okay thx!

and the MMM combo is right out of the box parallel, to connect with 1 lipo battery I assume?


What I also wanted to be know is what does "continuous current" mean in ESC specs?

MMM has 120A continuous current
Tekin 1/8 210A
Losi Xcelorin has 160A

what does it doe, what does it mean, why is it important?


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scarletboa
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11.01.2009, 06:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Riko View Post
okay thx!

and the MMM combo is right out of the box parallel, to connect with 1 lipo battery I assume?


What I also wanted to be know is what does "continuous current" mean in ESC specs?

MMM has 120A continuous current
Tekin 1/8 210A
Losi Xcelorin has 160A

what does it doe, what does it mean, why is it important?

1. the losi esc is junk. forget about it

2. the tekin and MMM can each handle about the same current. they are both plenty for any 1/8 scale rig.

3. just get the MMM combo and run 4 or 5s geared for about 40mph (use brian's speed calc). it will have massive power and run like a champ with cool temps. then, for speed runs, you can run 6s.


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shaunjohnson
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11.01.2009, 06:50 PM

MMM 2200 combo + 4s 30c 5000mah lipo + 40mph gearing = long lasting fun.


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suicideneil
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11.01.2009, 11:38 PM

Continuous current is the maximum amount of current (amps) the esc can handle for any length of time before it melts- a bad setup can draw more current than the esc can handle, resulting in cooked esc and batts usually (many factors, such as gearing, motor kv, tire size, vehicle weight, terrain causing drag on the truck (tall grass)). The higher the CC rating the better, but beware, many manufacturers, especially chinese ones and orange ones put misleading, or outright bullplop ratings on their escs to make them look better; castle is very open and honest about their esc components and rating/ testing methods, something no other manufacturer has ever done to my knowledge.

I use a first gen MMM and a Medusa motor- the esc pre-dates the MMM motors by a couple years, and it is a slightly lower kv (2000kv), making it ideal for the 5s lipo I run it on in my GorillaMaxx.
   
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Riko
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11.02.2009, 08:10 AM

okay, and I see the MMM V3 ESC has 120A continuous current.

I have seen a battery pack that has 390 amps.
http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-6500-185-Pack.htm

Do I read you wrong if you mean that the amps on a ESC should be as high as possible?

Because here thety say that you have to try to get a battery with a amp that is as high as possible: http://www.beatyourtruck.com/prodrev...stermamba.html

The take-away here is that most folks don’t know how much their system really draws, and as a result, use an underpowered battery to run it. I gotta admit, even with playing with high powered BL gear for some time now, I was surprised to see 150A+ peak draws. That’s a tremendous amount of current, and most folks don’t have batteries that can do that. Don’t underestimate the current requirements. I’d say to be safe, your battery system should be able to deliver at least 150A.


so if this particular ESC can handle 120A and you have a battery capable of 390 amps, than you are safe? :) or am I mixing stuff up here


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Nard Cox
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11.02.2009, 07:10 PM

Well, I know some here don't really like MaxAmps, never used them before myself but I've read some 'not so good' stories about them. When picking a LiPo for the MMM 2200kv combo 150A continuous would be preferred, like the Turnigy 5000mAh 30C which offer great price / performance.

Simple scheme:
Motor asks power from the Esc and Esc asks power from the LiPo

So if the motor asks for example 100A the Esc needs to be able to handle that amount, on it's turn the LiPo should be able to deliver what the Esc demands. So yes when you are at least 120A with your LiPo's it should be good, but as said before 150A is preferred.

ps. please correct me if I'm wrong.
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