Welcome back Lito. I was looking for your help a while back. Finallly got around to picking some of the final small pieces to finish the str to strr conversion. Got to this front part and got a bit stumped. I thought you posted something about connecting the upper front arm pins in when you out your strr together but couldn't find it though. I got them in there and nothing has fell apart yet. Not sure if I ended up doing if correctly though. It that last post in this thread:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=14885&page=2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick
A 10t pinion of the same pitch as a 13t will have a smaller diameter, and might not be big enough to reach the ring gear enough to mesh properly inside the diff case. I haven't looked closely before, but I would say ring gears are off set differently to suit 10t or 13t pinions.
If you have a lot of room if the diff housing you may be able to shim the gears close enough, worth trying anyway.
Have you counted the teeth on the st rr pinion? I'm pretty sure the truggy has a 10t pinion anyway, or did they get swapped for buggy diffs?
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Yeah, you guys have it right. I put them down backwards in the op. The GS Racing pinions are the buggy 13t
That's a good point you brought up about the mesh. I don't have the gs ring gear. I thought about ordering two of them. At the clearance price a-main has them listed at it's tempting. They have the GS racing cvd and universial shaft for a great price but I can't get any specs out of them.
It's hard to tell how much different the hang over would be in the ring gear from the pictues.
GS RACING
KYOSHO
I don't know a lot about the metals but if the origanal price is any indication the GS ring gear is made from a better material vs the Kyosho ring gear.
I did measure the widest part on both of the pinon and this is what they are
Kyosho Pinoin
11.6mm
GS Racing
13.1mm
So there probably would be a mesh issue unless the right ring gear was used.
Ironically it wasn't even the STRR or the GS gear that got me thinking about this. When I put the LST diffs into the G3R is took away some snap that I thought I use to have. But I also ran a mm 4s 1515 1y 56/25 on it then went to a 6s MMM and CC/Neu 2200kv setup, changed the diffs out, put 7" terapins on to play with. Put the MMM and CC/neu in the Savage XL and put the 1515 back in the G3R. I am now running a 6s MMM on a 1515 1y on 72/19 and it seems better now. With those tires and gearing it is pretty close to 1:1 rollout. It seems the cc/new 2200kv motor has more torque then my old 1515 1y 2200kv does. I was going to pull the 1515 1y from the maxx and try it out. It hasn't been run very much at all compared to the one that was in the G3R.