Way to test your charger/balancer?

[JThiessen]

Before I left for vacation I upgraded the software on my Hyperion Duo (version 1) to the latest software. There were a few warnings on the Hyperion site about them not warranting the upgrade on V1 machines, but after the software loaded, it seemed as though it was fine.
But as the week wore on, it seemed as though it wasn't functioning correctly. For instance, I attempted to balance a 6S FP pack I bought from Linc, and the NEW 6S G3 pack, and after 6 hours each, there was zero diffence in the cells. I also noticed that some of the packs didn't seem to be completely charged - even though it said they were complete. Finally, on the last day, on side 2, it gave me a circuit error on that same FP pack, but it worked just fine on side 1.

My guess is that I need to just send it in, but was wondering if there were any sure fire easy checks one could do with them.

[_paralyzed_]

try tossing it at the floor with a good amount of force. If she bounces all is fine, but if it doesn't bounce or parts break off it is time for service.

I'm sorry nobody answered this for ya. You and I know you were hoping for a miracle cure but we also both know it's time to send that bad boy in.

I am sorry for your loss.

[BrianG]

Looks like I missed this thread.

If I suspected issues, I would use two meters; one connected in parallel with the battery as a voltmeter, the other hooked in series with the battery as a current meter. Run the charger and see if the meters agree with what the charger is saying.

[JThiessen]

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

try tossing it at the floor with a good amount of force. If she bounces all is fine, but if it doesn't bounce or parts break off it is time for service.

I'm sorry nobody answered this for ya. You and I know you were hoping for a miracle cure but we also both know it's time to send that bad boy in.

I am sorry for your loss.

I think you are correct Harold. Its the "off season" here anyway, so might just as well.

Originally Posted by BrianG

Looks like I missed this thread.

If I suspected issues, I would use two meters; one connected in parallel with the battery as a voltmeter, the other hooked in series with the battery as a current meter. Run the charger and see if the meters agree with what the charger is saying.

Why two meters, as opposed to measuring individually with one meter? I ask, because I tried measuring the current with my Fluke (I just stuck the probes into the wires). The numbers it showed didn't make sense to me at the time (remember, I was on a 10 day drinking binge....).

I haven't really seen anyone post about sending a unit back to Hyperion for service before. Wonder how it generally turns out time wise and cost?

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by JThiessen

...
Why two meters, as opposed to measuring individually with one meter? I ask, because I tried measuring the current with my Fluke (I just stuck the probes into the wires). The numbers it showed didn't make sense to me at the time (remember, I was on a 10 day drinking binge....).

Because the method for meter hookup is different for voltage and current.

In voltage mode, the meter is hooked in parallel with (or "across") the component to measure. Meters in this mode have a high internal resistance to avoid it having an effect on the circuit being measured. This also means if you hook it in series with the measured component, you are introducing a very high resistance (in the mega ohms) into the circuit and things won't work right (you'd have a voltage divider with the vast majority of the supply voltage being dropped on the meter).

In current mode, the meter is hooked in series (or inline) with the component being measured. Meters in this mode have a very very low resistance (shunt), just enough to cause a voltage drop in the milli-volts when current flows through it. If you place the meter in parallel with the component being measured, you are effectively shorting it out and/or blowing the protection fuse in the meter.

So yeah, you kinda need two meters if you want to see voltage and current numbers at the same time.

[JThiessen]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Because the method for meter hookup is different for voltage and current.

In voltage mode, the meter is hooked in parallel with (or "across") the component to measure. Meters in this mode have a high internal resistance to avoid it having an effect on the circuit being measured. This also means if you hook it in series with the measured component, you are introducing a very high resistance (in the mega ohms) into the circuit and things won't work right (you'd have a voltage divider with the vast majority of the supply voltage being dropped on the meter).

In current mode, the meter is hooked in series (or inline) with the component being measured. Meters in this mode have a very very low resistance (shunt), just enough to cause a voltage drop in the milli-volts when current flows through it. If you place the meter in parallel with the component being measured, you are effectively shorting it out and/or blowing the protection fuse in the meter.

So yeah, you kinda need two meters if you want to see voltage and current numbers at the same time.

I guess my question was do I need to see it at the same time?

[_paralyzed_]

Originally Posted by JThiessen

I guess my question was do I need to see it at the same time?

nope. you could set to measure voltage and check that, and then set to measure amperage and check that. Orf vice versa.

Brian forgets not everyone has multi-meters coming out of the wazoo like he does

[BrianG]

Well, it would be nice to have both measurements at the same time (which is how power meters, dataloggers, etc work). If you are getting one reading that doesn't look right, you can see what the other reading is saying. But no, you don't "need" to use them both at the same time.

_paralyzed_, not having multiple meters really isn't an excuse. You can get them for $5-10 each if you look around (Harborfreight tools). They aren't the best, but for general use, they are perfect. I use my Fluke for precision measurements and the cheapie meters for when "pretty close" is close enough. Although, I "calibrated" my cheapie meters with the Fluke, so they are closer than pretty close.

[JThiessen]

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

Brian forgets not everyone has multi-meters coming out of the wazoo like he does

I think we should all pitch in some day and buy him an oscilloscope. We'd never hear from him again......

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by JThiessen

I think we should all pitch in some day and buy him an oscilloscope. We'd never hear from him again......

lol, put some boobs on it and you'd be right.