8ight-b 2.0 tekno conversion doesn't work ??? - RC-Monster Forums

stum · 08:26 AM

I installed my 8b 2.0 conversion last night and found a little problem, the PROVIDED 14t bell won't mesh with the spur properly with out cutting away 3-4mm of material off my center diff, and there is no using a 13t or 12t as this bell is within 1mm of the brake disc as well... why wasn't this tested? Why did the directions not say you cannot possibly make this work with out hacking up your center diff mount? I'm not use to so many issues, your version 1.0's went together great. Did I do something wrong? I"m not sure how I possibly could have.. didn't anyone test out the castle/tekin mount to make sure it would fit?

PS your countersinking for the main large screws are still all off and they don't any of them sit flush with the chassis.. (f/r/c diffs etc) great looking chassis though. This I'm actually not surpised on, as both your 8b and 8t 1.0's were messed up too and the screws were not countersunk to the correct depth.

sabongi · 07.03.2010, 09:49 AM

sorry, but definitely should've gone with mike's...

teknorc · 07.03.2010, 01:57 PM

Thanks sabongi :)

This issue has been covered. We have been shaving the center diff since we released our kits and never had a single issue. 12t clutch bells aren't recommended since they use smaller bearings (not enough material for the teeth). We use 13t all the time though. No clearance issues with pinions, but they don't provide any shock protection. The 36mm mount has more clearance since it puts the motor a little lower, but we're not seeing too many 36mm motors in 1/8th scale anymore .

stum · 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teknorc

Thanks sabongi :)

This issue has been covered. We have been shaving the center diff since we released our kits and never had a single issue. 12t clutch bells aren't recommended since they use smaller bearings (not enough material for the teeth). We use 13t all the time though. No clearance issues with pinions, but they don't provide any shock protection. The 36mm mount has more clearance since it puts the motor a little lower, but we're not seeing too many 36mm motors in 1/8th scale anymore .

I suggest a manual update noting this to make the process go smoother.. as it stands you put it all together wasting a ton of time, then you have to take it apart to fix the issue then reassembling after again. Most don't mind the work but again just a **highlight** or warning notice would have been nice.

PS I think it's time to update the ESC plate as well.. still using the same one made for a MM esc and it's really too tall w/ the MMM. If you shave off about 1/2 it's at a good height. Then just use some two way tape for the transponder instead and a dirt guard on the front is VERY necessary to keep your ESC alive if you race at all.. especially if there is any rain in the forecast or if they water the track.

Here is a shot of mine.. like I said just an idea but everyone should be doing this iMO.

marzac2 · 03:59 AM

We've been cutting down the esc tray for years now. We almost always suggest doing this for buggy applications where esc space is limited. We always take suggestions though, thank you. Also, may I suggest using the antenna tube and holder. Spektrum DSM 1 has a hard time working properly if your antenna wire is mixed around other wires and not pointing up. We also recommend using velcro on the battery tray and battery or at least use a small foam pad in place at the bottom of the tray to help keep the battery in place during heavy crashes.

stum · 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzac2

We've been cutting down the esc tray for years now. We almost always suggest doing this for buggy applications where esc space is limited. We always take suggestions though, thank you. Also, may I suggest using the antenna tube and holder. Spektrum DSM 1 has a hard time working properly if your antenna wire is mixed around other wires and not pointing up. We also recommend using velcro on the battery tray and battery or at least use a small foam pad in place at the bottom of the tray to help keep the battery in place during heavy crashes.

small antenna on the dsm2 allows it to flop and work w/o issues at least on the race track.. so I don't need max range but thanks, funny enough my wires were even in wrong in that pic, I had the brake servo plugged into the bind and the transponder in the aux, lol! Yes I didn't install it yet in the pics (it is now) but I use the 3m dual lock works great, very thin, very light and does a great job holding anything.

Ryu James · **my 2 cents -** 07.10.2010, 03:21 PM

i agree with a couple things here. i love Tekno kits but here are some "updates", that if made, i think would make them perfect.

1. as Stum said, shorten the ESC mount. we all have been shaving them down so they sit a lot lower anyway why not just change the design so they are produced to sit 1/4"-3/8" high.....instead of 1" off the chassis.

2. the mudguards need to extend further up toward the nose of the chassis to keep dirt out. i always modify my tekno mudguards with a piece of lexan or plastic to cover that gap you get. it seems like a simple design mod could be made so that the mudguards are still compatible with all the V3 kits yet do a better job of keeping dirt and mud out of the chassis. also, make them taller at the front end, like most factory mudguards are.

anyway, those are two mods i make to every tekno conversion i do. i also usually mod my chassis so that i can use a RCM battery tray as i prefer those. i love the tekno design in that i can use mech brakes and clutch/traktion drive so i start with their kit and make some mods to my preference.

i am sure Tekno has a lot of insight into what could make their kits better as they have more experience with them than any of us. i just think if Tekno is doing these mods also why not make the adjustments in production so everyone can benefit from these improvements.

keep up the great work, Tekno!

stum · 10:09 PM

Does anyone else have issues w/ missing laps /w the transponder when upside down under the radio tray? My last tekno 8b 1.0 kit had this problem and I ran into again racing w/ the tekno 2.0 kit and both had shaved down trays. I moved my transponder to the inside edge of the mud guard right next to the radio tray and it works great..

just figured id ask

PS MANY people would buy updated mud guards.. so it wouldn't be just new units getting the benifit.. I as well as most would be happy to snag a set if they were a good design that did a better job protecting.

Ryu James · 07.10.2010, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stum

Does anyone else have issues w/ missing laps /w the transponder when upside down under the radio tray? My last tekno 8b 1.0 kit had this problem and I ran into again racing w/ the tekno 2.0 kit and both had shaved down trays. I moved my transponder to the inside edge of the mud guard right next to the radio tray and it works great..

just figured id ask

PS MANY people would buy updated mud guards.. so it wouldn't be just new units getting the benifit.. I as well as most would be happy to snag a set if they were a good design that did a better job protecting.

if you read the instructions in your transponder it says that the unit MUST be mounted flat with the bottom side facing the ground to work properly. my guess is if you flip the unit over and mount it as the instuctions say you should be fine.

i have had transpnders that miss laps before and couldnt figure out why. usually i just try mounting it in different spots until it works 100% of the time.

stum · 07.18.2010, 10:02 PM

What are some common setups on the 8b 2.0 (or 1.5 specifically) from the tekno guys.. I'm currently running 50wt front and 37wt rear for oils green springs around all corners. Looking for as much setup detail from some fast drivers though.. I need another 1 to 2 seconds off my lap times... to stay on the lead lap.

marzac2 · 07.18.2010, 11:23 PM

Sounds like your running heavy on the front oil and light on springs. However, without knowing your track, it would be foolish to suggest a particular set-up. What is your track like (bumps/jumps/surface)?

We stick to Losi set-up sheets for the tracks we run at and only change to one heavier on the springs all around and may go heavier on oil in the rear, but only if we are carrying a heavy pack for a long main or something. Also we go 3,000-7,000wt heavier on the center differential oil than what is in a particular tracks sheet.

Taking 1-2 seconds off your lap times is a mental issue more than a set-up one IMHO. To get that much time shaved off your lap times, I'd practice a lot more than I was previously and look to follow faster drivers to see what they are doing to get around that fast. Not crashing throughout the entire race helps.

stum · 07.19.2010, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzac2

Sounds like your running heavy on the front oil and light on springs. However, without knowing your track, it would be foolish to suggest a particular set-up. What is your track like (bumps/jumps/surface)?

We stick to Losi set-up sheets for the tracks we run at and only change to one heavier on the springs all around and may go heavier on oil in the rear, but only if we are carrying a heavy pack for a long main or something. Also we go 3,000-7,000wt heavier on the center differential oil than what is in a particular tracks sheet.

Taking 1-2 seconds off your lap times is a mental issue more than a set-up one IMHO. To get that much time shaved off your lap times, I'd practice a lot more than I was previously and look to follow faster drivers to see what they are doing to get around that fast. Not crashing throughout the entire race helps.

Lots of bumps a few larger ones, but they are not an issue.. this track is a little more friendly to 1/10 SC's than the last due to the growth of this class this year (largest class now) at least 2 heats. The lipos I've been running are the hyperion g3 5500's so they have a little weight to them.. and I run a castle 1y, again a little on the heavy side. I may have gone a little heavy in the front shock weight, but the rear really needed the extra wt. I think the springs are right on but I do have a lot of preload on the fronts so I could maybe move up one notch w/ those. Of course the 2 secs is partially mental and it doesn't help I'm trying to keep up w/ pro's, but Im getting closer and closer all the time :) I don't wreck that much, but it does still happen a few times in the main.. typically I seem to catch the ruts differently and maybe it's just how they handle them (experience), but their buggies seem to be much smoother through them and don't typically result in a roll when mine often does. That is the area where I loose the most time in any given race. I'm off the drake setup sheet with a few tweaks.. but if you guys are doing the same, I guess I'll continue to focus on the drivng skills :)

I am going w/ the traktion drive this week to see if it helps me bridge the gap between the direct drive and clutch feeling.. I like the soft feel of the clutch at times but there are a few quick turns and jumps that it's hard to get the right rythm from the clutch, at least w/ the provided springs..

Thanks for your thoughts..

marzac2 · 07.19.2010, 01:55 PM

If you are loosing time in small rut sections, that points very critically towards your heavy oil set-up. Go down to the levels of Drake's standard or Thunder Alley set-up sheet at Losi.com. If this doesn't help and you want to get faster... drop all that unnecessary weight. The motor and battery are, as you pointed out, way heavy for a racing set-up. Check out the Tekno Lektron motor for the lightest option out there. Also if your still having problems in the ruts, check your sway bars and see if you can get away with running a lighter one. If you are still looking for tuning in the ruts after that, start getting critical with your shock rebound settings. For your track, I would run 75% rebound in front and 25% in rear.