A quick bearing question.

I recently got a Novak Havoc 3s / Ballistic 10.5T combo for my Traxxas Slash 2 wheel drive, and It has been alot of fun! I have really enjoyed this combination, even through some radio interference problems.

I now have another problem on my plate: the bearings in my motor are shot. I took apart the motor, and inspected the bearings, and they are all scratchy and rough to turn, and the front one occasionally freezes up.
When I drive my truck, the motor temps go up to 130* F in a matter of minutes, which is a big difference than before when it never used to go above 115* after a full bashing session.
(I have only had the motor for about 6 or 7 runs of one 7-cell NiMh each.)

My questions are:
1: Is there any way to replace the bearing, but not the entire end-bell? I cannot seem to figure out if the bearing is removable or not.

2: How am I supposed to lubricate the bearing? I have tried 3-in-1 oil as some other site has suggested, but nothing really seems to get "into" the bearing, it kinda just sits on the surface.

3: do the bearings usually go bad this fast?

4: Is there anywhere that I can get that plastic tube that I see in the Youtube tutorials for taking in and out the rotor? I did not get one with my combo (If I was supposed to) or is there anything else that might do the same job?

Thank you for your time.

and another quickie:
Would anyone know off the top of their head what ABEC rating the bearings that come in the end-bell are?
and what width they are? because I cannot seem to remove my bearing from the front end-bell, so I cannot measure the width.
I found a great ABEC 7 bearing, double shielded, that has the same shaft diameter, and outer diameter, but it only comes in one width, and I do not know if it would fit...

and more bad news for me:
I just figured out where all the heat was coming from:
When you are nice to the bearing, and apply enough horizontal load to spin it with your finger, it spins, but when it is on the rotor, it DOES NOT SPIN... so I was running with no front bearing :(
that expplains the heat.

[NovakTwo]

Replacing the bearings can be quite a challenge. Contact tech@teamnovak.com The members of the other forum, to which you posted this question, have offered some suggestions.

Here is the link to our Ballistic 540 replacement parts:

Ballistic 540 Accessories

[simplechamp]

1. Not sure

2. I wouldn't lubricate it at all externally. It will come lubricated already and adding oil will just soak up dirt from the outside and bring it into the bearing, possibly contributing to the quick wear you experienced. Just keep the outside clean and free of dirt after running.

3. No they shouldn't, see #2

4. You can roll up some thin cardboard into a tube to protect the windings during rotor removal and installation.

5. The ABEC is usually low, like 1 or 3. You don't need super high precision bearings for these applications. In fact lower is sometimes better because the tolerances aren't as tight so they can handle getting a little dirty or dusty better.

That was the longest quick question ever LOL.

Okay, thank you. I had a feeling that they did not have to be SUPER precise...
I would feel comfortable knocking it down to ABEC-5 and knocking a few bucks off the price :)
and I made the thread with one question originally, and then I just kept editing it, but could not change the title

My main issue now is HOW to remove the bearing.
I am waiting on a reply from tech support on this one before I decide what to do myself.

Thanks for the help :)

[niklass]

If you put the axle end of the rotor into the bearing from the outside of the end bell, and VERY CAREFULLY wiggle it from side to side and at the same time pushing gently you'll be able to get the bearing out. (thats the trick I learned in my skateboarding days).

[ta_man]

Originally Posted by CoolestDinosoar

I recently got a Novak Havoc 3s / Ballistic 10.5T combo for my Traxxas Slash 2 wheel drive, and It has been alot of fun! I have really enjoyed this combination, even through some radio interference problems.

I now have another problem on my plate: the bearings in my motor are shot. I took apart the motor, and inspected the bearings, and they are all scratchy and rough to turn, and the front one occasionally freezes up.
When I drive my truck, the motor temps go up to 130* F in a matter of minutes, which is a big difference than before when it never used to go above 115* after a full bashing session.
(I have only had the motor for about 6 or 7 runs of one 7-cell NiMh each.)

My questions are:
1: Is there any way to replace the bearing, but not the entire end-bell? I cannot seem to figure out if the bearing is removable or not.

2: How am I supposed to lubricate the bearing? I have tried 3-in-1 oil as some other site has suggested, but nothing really seems to get "into" the bearing, it kinda just sits on the surface.

3: do the bearings usually go bad this fast?

4: Is there anywhere that I can get that plastic tube that I see in the Youtube tutorials for taking in and out the rotor? I did not get one with my combo (If I was supposed to) or is there anything else that might do the same job?

Thank you for your time.

and another quickie:
Would anyone know off the top of their head what ABEC rating the bearings that come in the end-bell are?
and what width they are? because I cannot seem to remove my bearing from the front end-bell, so I cannot measure the width.
I found a great ABEC 7 bearing, double shielded, that has the same shaft diameter, and outer diameter, but it only comes in one width, and I do not know if it would fit...

and more bad news for me:
I just figured out where all the heat was coming from:
When you are nice to the bearing, and apply enough horizontal load to spin it with your finger, it spins, but when it is on the rotor, it DOES NOT SPIN... so I was running with no front bearing :(
that expplains the heat.

I have had very bad luch with the novak endbell bearings. It seems that once a little dust gets in them they are done for. Every one I tried to clean (motor spray, vibratory cleaner, etc) just got worse or locked up completely.

The 10.5 takes a 3/16X1/2" bearing. I have replaced some with McMaster-Carr part number 57155K374. I can't really tell you if they hold up better than the Novak bearings because since replacing them I have taken great care to prevent dust from getting to them:


I didn't have a bearing puller for a 3/16" I.D bearing so I improvised: An associated CVD axle into the bearing from the outside. A 1/4" drive 1/2" ID socket on the inside, a washer and 8-32 nut on the end of the CVD axle protruding from the socket. Heat the endbell with a heat gun to soften the adhesive (and expand the aluminum more than the steel, making the fit less tight) and turn the CVD axle into the nut to remove the bearing. You need to make sure the new one is pressed in with the axis exactly perpendicular to the endbell.