So Friday night, not too long after I posted this thread, I realized my NEED to get this buggy (and be the first person to convert one!). So yesterday when working at the LHS I purchased the only one there, and I had to wait until 6:45pm to start building it

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Initial impression as soon as the box was opened: "This box smells weird." Then I got around to ripping the parts bags out, trying to see as much as possible as quickly as possible. This was my first 1/8 buggy kit, so as you can imagine I was quite excited! Unfortunately then I looked at the wording on the box and in the instruction manual, and there was much left to be desired: proper translations. But considering that I've had a good deal of experience with RC cars and generally have good intuition the build was not so difficult.
First up was building the diffs. This kit includes 500wt. (actually 50wt. shock oil), 1000wt, 3000wt, and 5000wt oils. The instructions specify 3000/3000/1000 F/C/R, but I went with 5000/5000/3000 because I know the diffs will be more likely to unload under brushless power than what "nitro" can dish out. Building the diffs was nothing special, I've built many a 1/8 diff before.
Next was the front end. This was where things got interesting. You might have seen 1/8 buggies like the Mugens with pillow ball suspension, and others with vertical ball stud-suspension (I think it might be called pivot ball?). The SH car utilizes both, with a lower pillow ball and a vertical ball stud on top. The pillow balls alone were surprising because they have a hard-anodized aluminum outer sphere and an inner steel core. This design makes them light, yet strong (amazing!). Having the upper vertical ball stud allows for typical camber adjustments with a tie rod, but also allows for the manipulation of the ball stud's height which I am guessing could alter roll center characteristics. Another thing I noticed when building the front end is the plastic of the suspension arms: it feels very sturdy, yet flexible. It just felt reassuring.
The rear end build was much unlike anything I've ever built before. For starters, there's a disk brake mounted to the diff case! The design of it is quite simple, and consists of two cylindrical pieces that squeeze the brake disc between them when pressure is applied. Then came attaching the VERY strange suspension arms. The arms have little rubber bushings inserted into them where the hinge pins go through to act as impact absorbers and they should hopefully decrease wear on suspension parts.
Finally came attaching everything to the chassis. The front and rear fit onto the chassis perfectly, and without a hitch. The steering servo mount is pretty cool because it is totally separate from the radio tray! There was absolutely no cutting involved to get the steering servo mount in its current condition.
Up next is making a motor mount and new plate above the center diff to mount the mini servo (Hitec 5245MG) for the rear brake. And then a battery tray will be made, probably using a spacer to raise it above the level of the dirt guard.
Overall, this kit was VERY fun to build because of all the minor things that stood out when I built it. Here are just a few that have not yet been mentioned:
-almost all screws are HEX head, and most are self-tapping which means less time to get those screws in or out
-only 6 screws were phillips head, including the four 45mm long screws that hold the front and rear gearboxes together, and two more on the front gearbox
-little covers for the front upper arms (they hide the turnbuckles) keep the front upper arms straight
-front and rear upper mounting points for the aluminum chassis braces have the little rubber bushings in them (impact absorbers), and the upper part of the front chassis brace is secured with a pin and body clip
-the hexes are 17mm, but are a star pattern which make them key into the wheels MUCH better than standard 17mm hexes (and these hexes should be compatible with standard 17mm wheels), and this star pattern makes the hexes weigh less
-shocks use rubber bushings instead of o-rings, which should provide a better and longer-lasting seal than o-rings
-CVDs throughout
Total build time was about 7.5hrs for the kit.
As you can tell, I am quite impressed with this buggy so far! Now, here are the pics you have been waiting for: