E-Maxx 3905 rebuild

[Mr E-Maxx]

Hello Guys,

I want so show you my rebuild of my E-Maxx.
But first a little bit about me:
My Name is Lars and i am 18 years old. I'm from Germany so my English isn't the best but i'm still learning.

But know back to topic....
I got my Maxx in June 2008. It was my second Car after a Stampede 2wd with mechanic speed control. I was very happy about it. With the first crash I need new parts so I tuned it up. I didn't know how much you can mod at this truck and after some yeas and a lot of money almost every stock part is changed.

So here a little part list:
FLM Chassis
FLM Motormount
FLM Bulkhead Braces
RD Gearbox silver
HotRacing Slipper
New Era Models Bulkheads
RPM REVO Axel Carriers
Traxxas CVDs
Traxxas center CVD for 3906 (I killed FLM dogbone in the front)
UE Widetrack Gen2
UE UltraLite 7.5 6 Spyder
Savöx SA-1283 SG
Mamba Monster 2200kv V1.3
Proline Masher40 on Axial 8spoke
Proline GMC Toptruck Body
Traxxas BigBore Shocks with MTA Springs.

This is the up-to-date version of this truck. Many parts that don't fit are sold. One of the biggest Problems of this truck is the Driveshaft’s in combination with the UE Diffs and Suspension arms. I destroyed over 6 Sets of Driveshaft’s like MIPs or TRX Steel because they are all a little bit to short.
Why I chose this title?
The Truck is complete disassembled, because I change broken or missing parts like screws or bearings. I used this truck for many years every weekend so all parts are used and so they looked. Now I polished every part and this is a lot of work but it is worth doing.

Now it must be enough text.
Here are some pictures of the Truck.





I hope you can understand what I wrote. I did my best.

Next time I will show you more pictures of the rebuild process.

Lars

[RC-Monster Mike]

Thanks for posting, Lars - and your English seems quite good, actually(for sure better than my German). I would like to see some body-off pictures of the truck, as it sounds nicely built.
Regarding the drive shaft issue you mentioned - turning the pillow balls in as far as possible(without limiting steering or suspension movement of course) may help, but you may also consider finding slightly longer drive cups to make sure the shaft drive pins stay within the cup throughout the full suspension movement(and steering travel up front).

[Mr E-Maxx]

Hello,

Thanks for you the Tipp. I had the same idea to turning in the pillow in but it wasn't enough. When I used 17mm hex like the stock one I made some 2mm spacers between the Axel and the Carriers. With this Set-Up the Driveshaft was long enough. Are the Hyper7.5 Outdrives longer than the UE? I need only 2mm. With the stock Axel Carriers everything fits, but if I use the RPM I will need 2mm more. I can’t use the stock ones, because I broke them to much and I destroyed the big bearing so often. I hope that I can take a picture tomorrow of a temporary build.

[RC-Monster Mike]

If you are using the stock diff outdrives(drive cup built into the diff shaft), then they are almost always too short. Using diff shafts and 6mm bore drive cups usually adds the little extra length needed.

[Mr E-Maxx]

Hello Guys,

I'm ready to polish my parts. It was a lot of work.

Here is an example:
Left side before and right side after polish....

When I cleaned the parts I saw that my FLM Motormount is bent.
The holes in my Bulkeheads and my CC 2200kv Motor are not available anymore.
So before I can build it up I will need some new parts. Are the Traxxas Bulks Ok? What can I do with Motor? I can't put off the Backplate. What Motormount can hold the Motor better at the end?
Sometimes I hate this Truck. It etas my money.
So if anybody has some Ideas please help me.

[ruudxd]

What do you mean with the holes are not available anymore?
That the treath is stripped?
Can't you tap a bigger size screw in it?
If not, then I would go for new FLM bulks because the plastic ones arent very good.
RPM has bulks now, but I like a drivetrain with very little flex, so aluminum would be my choise there.

For a Castle 1515 you can get rebuild kits, they include a new front and rear bell, rotor, and bearings if I am correct.
If you want to pull of the endbell, remove all the screws, and push the axle hard to a table or workbench, it should pop off then.
I have never seen a motormount that hold the end of the motor to.
Just the front should be enough.
Doesn't Mike have a motormount?

[Mr E-Maxx]

Hi,

Yes the treath in the hole is stripped.(sry but I didn't found a better translation)
The RPM Bulks didn't work at my truck. I broke them at the same point like the Stock one after one little jump.
I didn't mean the plastic one of Traxxas. I mean the blue alu Bulks.
The FLM Bulks are a option too.

[ruudxd]

Hey, Finally someone with the same problems ( langauge ) in the same time frame :)

Personally I would go for FLM because of their good name.
I don't know what the price difference is between the FLM and the Traxxas ones?
I don't have an Traxxas vehicle, so I don't know a lot about them :)
Maybe an other option is UE ( don't know their whole name, unlimmited engenering? from the Gorilla maxxes for instance ) they have a good name to.

[RC-Monster Mike]

The FLM bulks will be stronger than the Traxxas aluminum bulks - FastLane also has an extreme abuse warranty - send the broken bulk back and they will replace it for the cost of shipping in most cases. Same with the motor mount. :-)

[Arct1k]

Mike sells a motor playe adapter that could help you with the stripped hole

[Mr E-Maxx]

Hello everybody!

Wow thank you for your tips. So I think I must order some new parts at rc-monster next time.

@ruudxd yes it is a problem. But I hope that it helps if I write more in English. It is very hard to find good Maxx parts in Germany. I think I bought the last new UE Parts from a hobbystore here in Germany. So I need shops like rc-monster.

@RC-Monster Mike that sounds good. So now my partlist is nearly complete.

@Arct1k I never seen this part before. It is a good Idea but I try to get new engine plate.

[Mr E-Maxx]

Hello everybody,

I want to show you some more Pictures of my Maxx build. I got my new bearings and screws an I like them. The quality is very good! So it makes a lot of fun to work with them.
What else is new? I got new Bulks in front. I know you told me that the TRX Bulks are not so tough like the FLM but they are new and I got them were cheap. I Pay only 20€ (23,6$) so I couldn't say no. If they will bend I can change them to FLM. Then I think I found my solution for my outdrive problem. I got the outdrives of an Asso MonsterGT or ThunderTiger MTA4 S28 /S50 and they fit into the Hyper7 perfectly. They are so long that i must cut them about 1.5mm. They are so long that they limited my suspension. I hope my dad can shorten them on lathe. (I hope this is the right word for that machine)
Okay but know enough words. Here are some pics....








Sry for that bad quality but they are snapeshots.

Lars

[Mr E-Maxx]

Hello Guys,

i need you help. I need new steel CVDs for my Maxx. The Traxxas were bend if they was new. What will be better? I found these: MIP, TVR-X-BALL, VantageRC, T-Bonz (TBREVO01X) Any other Tipps? They must fit into the Revo Axel Carrier.
I hope you can help me....
Lars

[Mr E-Maxx]

Hi,

i have some new Parts. So here are some new pictures....



Hope you like them.

[Serum]

Nice! those upperarms need to be mounted the other way around.
Love those teamc shocks! where did you get them from? using 2 sets of rear-shocks?

like this;