Truck

Question for everyone on this site. It seems most all of you have e-maxx's as your truck. Would you say it is the best for all around bashing/racing? To give you a little background on me, I recently got back into rc cars/truck from the airplane world. I started with a savage I purchased on e-bay. Did not really like it for a couple of reasons. First, it just seemed like I was working on it all of the time. To me, it was not all that easy to work on. Kind of a pain to get to everything. Secondly, it seems I was not great at tuning a nitro engine. So I sold that and purchased an evader pro to race at my local track. Only problem is, I never get to the track. I have practiced a couple of times, enjoy it, but never seem to have the time to get there. So, now I am deciding if I should just get a monster truck, eventually get a BL setup for it, and bash since I definitely have the time around my house, while camping, etc. So.....what to do. Get some bigger tires for my evader and use that? Thing I am worried about is it is all graphite. Probably not best for bashing. Thought about stampede, e-maxx, twin force. I definitely want to go electric, like the BL (speed like a nitro) but that is about all I am sure of. What do you guys think????

Confused,
Chris

[supermaxx]

Hello,

Chris,

I know that the evader truck isn't the biggest and strongest truck but they can take some bashing. If you want higher speeds and acceleration you have to go brushless. Many people here are driving e-maxxes because you don't have any work on the truck (which with nitro is, you work more than you drive the truck). You will see that it's much easier to go electric and you will drive more but you have other factors for a good life of the truck, like batteries, charger or motors. The e-maxx is very strong (stock) and you can make it lighters and even stronger by buying hop ups like gorillamaxx. This will also make the truck lighter in some cases which is nice for higher speeds. If you have driven the (electric) evader, you will have some expierence and I would choose to buy an e-maxx and then see if you like it to drive (it's my favourite truck) and then go brushless or get some hop-ups. You had a savage and you have to know that this is a size bigger and beefier than an e-maxx but you won't have the troubles with nitro-work. Also you have extension kits for the e-maxx, so you can make it like 1-4 inches longer if you want.

Greets Gerben!

[Serum]

Hi Chris..

Well..

You could get an BL conversion for your savage, i have got a brushless savage. (the only weak point to the older savages is that they don't use a double spidergear in the differentials). The diffhousings are allready prepared for this mod though..

Have you got an SS or an .21/.25? has it got the black dogbones or the silver types? (the black, non heavy duty dogbones are actually better than the heavy duty types)

The drivetrain of a savage is much tougher than an e-maxx.

When compared in price and hopups needed to get an equally strength with the e-maxx vs savage, the e-maxx will be more expensive. BUT in my opinion the emaxx is more suited for electric.. It took me a lot of time getting the savage looking the way i like it. which is clean.

I am working on a new type of motorplate as we speak for my BL savage. It will get a very low motormount, so the cg is as low as

So it all depends on you;

The e-maxx is nicer to see IMO than a savage. In my opinion i did a succesfull job on my own savage, but it takes A LOT of time. and a lot of time making the parts as well...

I am currently building up an emaxx as well, and i have to admit, the e-maxx is easier to maintain or to service.

What did went wrong on your savage?

If i see what my first savage went thru, and what i did with it, i can fully say it is one tough truck!

If your interested, here is the link to my savage.

In the mean time i sold my plettenberg and Schulze, and got a Feigao 7XL.

I bought the savage on ebay, it was the savage .21. I had tranny problems, steering servo problems, break problems, etc. I added a high torque servo, put in the upgraded dual disk break, put in new gears in the tranny, but could never get the .21 to run well. Finally purchased the .25 and put that in, broke in the motor, and sold it. What bothered me most, in my opinion, it was very difficult to work on with the TVP. To ge the transmission out sucked. After I sold it I bought the evader pro. Now I am thinking of selling that. What is the runtime on a stock e-maxx with 12 cells?

Chris

[supermaxx]

Depends on way of driving, 10-15 minutes.

And these are times with good battery packs, so I mean GP3300 packs.

[Serum]

Yeah, getting the savage serviced quickly just needs some modification (to your savage as to your toolbox) i use allenhead screws, and got a allen wrench that can work under an angle.

If you have got those, you can service it very fast.

The runtime pretty much depends on if you drive your truck slow, or at high speeds. Speedruns will empty your cells rather quick.

I once managed driving my savage about - hours on one charge. But that was an absolute record... I drove it when i was walking in the woods, (and in the mountains) I couldn't believe it myself either..

Well I made the plunge. The Evader is for sale on Ebay and I just purchased an e-maxx. First question, and I know I saw the answer somewhere on here before, but cannot find it. I will eventually go to BL, just not sure when. So in the mean time, what will I have to upgrade in the e-maxx for BL. I would like a list so I can get that knocked out by the time I make the purchase for a BL system. Secondly, in your opinion, how is the HV- Maxx system? How does it compare to the others that are sold here. I will not be racing it. All opinions are welcome.

Thanks,
Chris

[Serum]

Depends on the motor your planning? The amount of cells?

12, 14 16 or 18>>?

I don't know what motor, I would have this forum help me decide. As for the number of cells, probably 12 to start, then maybe 14. Not any more than that.

[Serum]

Okay, a 8L or 9L, the 8L will give you more punch, higher topspeed but lower runtimes, a nice overall is the 9L, with a good set of batteries, it is a blast on a maxx. You'll find much users here, that use this motor.

highly recommended hopups are aluminum diffcups, aluminum diffhousings and a set of cvd's (all around) with a set of UE idlers you'll have a tough maxx! (everyday bashing machine)

You can also start use the stock drivetrain, and till it brake/bend or snap, start with the hopups., it just depends how much money you want to put into it.

A nice hopup IMO is the g-maxx frame, giving a lower CG, and a much better handling

With a set of lighter tires, you are able to drop some serious weight (to be gentle on the drivetrain)

The hvmaxx is a nice setup, very gentle on the drivetrain, a nice replacement on the stock titans, some more power, but no match for the 9918 and a 8L or 9L. If you wan't a nice ride, as smooth as possible, buy the hvmaxx, if you want more power and higher topspeed, your better of with the 9918/feigao combination..

It looks like the price is the same for both systems, so I would probably be stupid to go with the HV Maxx over the 9918/9L combo. Which tires are you talking about that are lighter than stock? I will probably start with stock, and add the hopups you are talking about as things break. Is the g-maxx frame worth the money in performance, durability, etc? It looks like there are several to choose from, which one for just an all around basher? Thanks again for your help.

Chris

[Serum]

Well, most people choose the aluminum, i personally fancy the CF type.. (just a sucker for this stuff) And it's a bit lighter than the aluminum. you can also choose for an extension kit on both frames (makes the truck an inch longer.) the extension kit includes a rear skid and the extension piece for the upper part of the frame.

The tires you choose from pretty much depend on the surface your running on. The bowties are nice tires, The HPI dirtbonz (bowtie type) have got a softer foam, than the Proline bowties.

Proline Mulchers are very nice on grass and on loose surface.
A very light wheel is a HPI Q6 rim with the HPI dirtbonz tire (about 2lbs / 4 wheels) a 40 serie bowtie on dishrims weights about 1oz/each more.

[revoman 2.5]

Its perfect for that. I should have gotten one long ago but im soon going to make it a gmaxx