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11.04.2007, 12:33 AM
The end bell screws are WAY loctited... You'll need to get one of those small butane torches and a high qualitly (new) exact sized screwdriver. I like to use my 1/4" socket style snap-on bit, but you can get something decent from a Lowes or Home Depot or a tool shop.
First you'll want to mount the can in a vise (you can cut a V into a block of wood and secure the block and the motor to a table with a c-clamp if need be).
Then clean ANY dirt or debris out of the screw heads. Check the fit of the bit.
Get the pocket torch out and heat up the screw, hotter the better but be careful to not damage the finish on the can.
Use a piece of ice to rapidly cool the screw back down, this will harden the head a bit to help it not strip out. it will also (hopefully) cool the screw and the can at different rates so that the loctite will loosen up a bit. After it's cool I like to tap and the head if the screw by putting the driver in place then tapping the back of the driver (you can hit it pretty hard but again a little caution).
Now you're ready to get the screw out- as follows, put the driver in the screw, apply a little torque but don't try to break it loose, patience. Take the pocket torch again and this time start to heat the end plate just above the screw ( not realy flame to metal, but not real far away either, mabey 1/4" or so) heat, back off, heat, back off... you want the heat to spread to the loctite arount the screw threads, but not soften the screw.
Soon, with patience the screw will just let loose and start turning without much force at all. Take it all the way out while it's still hot or the loctite will harden again.
P.S. the bearing is 11x5x11mm and you can get a ceramic sealed bearing they use for heli tail shafts that is rated for 5,000hours at 80,000rpm for like $12
If I could only draw what I see in my head, then afford to build it, and finaly get to play with it...
Last edited by DrKnow65; 11.04.2007 at 12:35 AM.
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