Chassis brace question

[simplechamp]

Do I need to keep the stock chassis brace on my truggy considering the extra CF top-plates that have been added? The motor is hitting the brace when I try to set the gear mesh. This is because the Slipperential spur gear is smaller than the stock spur, so the motor needs to be pushed over further for proper gear mesh and I need to use a smaller pinion (12-13T) to maintain proper gearing.

The rear stock chassis brace is removed, but it is replaced with a 3mm threaded alum. post connecting from the chassis to the CF top-plate.

Do you think removing the brace will lead to problems with chassis flex? the only other (acceptable) option I see would be to get the small-gear diff conversion (10/43 instead of 13/43) so I could use larger pinions, but that still is a big extra chunk of money that I'd rather spend on other upgrades.

[What's_nitro?]

I would remove it. That CF looks sturdy enough.

[simplechamp]

OK I think I will. It might end up being beneficial, as having both the stock brace and upper CF could make the chassis too stiff and not allow enough flex. I know when I was following Ryu James making his custom CF chassis he said the original CF was too thick, which didn't allow enough flex and screwed up the jumping characteristics.

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

I would remove it. That CF looks sturdy enough.

Heck yeah I agree! Looks great!! I'm getting a 4.25X11.25mm 3mm sheet from FullForce this week for my truck! I may ask questions once I get my CF but I won't clog this thread.

[simplechamp]

I wish I could claim to have made the top-plates myself, but they were purchased. The only modification I did was widening the slot above the center diff to allow clearance for the Slipperential.