Home Audio

[Arct1k]

Any "cheap" suggestions...

I want to take output from my PC to:

- 2 sets of full size speakers mounted in the walls
- PC monitor.

I used to use a 2.5mm Y splitter to monitor & aux on my stereo - I think just parralleled the built in speaker to the stereo.

I have no idea the rating or imp of the speakers - will a multimeter measure it?

I was thinking to keep with the Y splitter and get a "cheap" amp that does A,B,A+B this time for the wall speakers - any ideas?

[BrianG]

Define "cheap".

A Y splitter works fine if both sets of speakers are amplified (some cheap PC speakers are not amplified).

I've done something like this in the past. Like you said, use a Y splitter out of the sound card. One side of the Y goes to a small set of amplified (~5w) PC speakers for general purpose use. The other Y goes to any line-level input of a typical home receiver, and then to any typical home speakers.

A multimeter will only measure DC resistance, while speakers are measured and rated as AC resistance, otherwise known as "impedance". Usually, a meter will show an ohm or so lower than the rated speaker impedance. So, for an 8 ohm speaker, expect a reading somewhere between 6 and 8 ohms. For a 4 ohm rated speaker, expect 3 to 4 ohms. This is normal.

[Arct1k]

I think the best answer is status quo with the y cable and just pickup a cheap sub 100 mini stereo with speaker jacks and bin the speakers and use the wall speakers in parrallel.

I would have preffered and A,B, A+B setup but can't see anything "reasonable"...

Linc's just got my mind going about converting my MBX5-XT to a GTP... and I was going to pickup a couple of MMM when they come out...

[BrianG]

It's pretty easy to create a simple A,B,A+B selector on the output of the sound card, it just involves picking up a couple of DPST switches (or a dual pole rotary switch), few 1/8" headphone jacks, a little bit of wire, and a small project enclosure (all easily available at RadioShack). Then, a little soldering and it's done. However, you'll get an audible pop if the amps happen to be on when you flip the switches. You might be able to mimimize the pop with a few extra passive components, but the pop will still be there. You could also get crazy: power the box with a wall-wart for ~6-12v @100mA and add a muting circuit, but that's probably getting more complicated that you want.

So, you and linc are converting GTPs too? Seems like I was just about the only one and now you're the third that I remember seeing in a short while. FYI: Mike just put up the GTP motor mount in the store...

[PowerRocks]

Some computer speakers do have the earphone plug in jack, so the user can plug in their head phones. Another alternative is to go to your sound settings and set speaker selection to 4 speaker stereo. This is assuming you have two multiple channel jacts on your sound card. Most newer computers will support 5.1 decoded output right out of the box. Anyways the purpose of that is so you have one output for your 5W pc speakers and another for your stereo.

Most home speakers are 8 ohm, you could always just pull one out and look at the back of the magnet.

Also you could just find a cheap used SB Audigy card on Ebay and install it.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by BrianG

So, you and linc are converting GTPs too? Seems like I was just about the only one and now you're the third that I remember seeing in a short while. FYI: Mike just put up the GTP motor mount in the store...

Interesting that mike now has a motor mount, pity that I cannot use it as I will be using a kb45 10l in my gtp. Actually it is a mbx buggy that has had a variety of powertrains that I am converting to the gtp. Basically the same thing, plus I will use the single spur solid center drive from the dirt oval gtp, with a plastic 51t ofna spur. Power will be from a pair of 2s2p milwaukee cells (thanks Briang!) in series thru a MM. Should be good for 40mph or so and will be lots of fun. Plus the buggy is well used, so I will not mind beating it up. I will post a few pics when I finish it up this week.

[Arct1k]

Well I guess I have two choices...

- Sell my mugen MBX5 MSR-T and get the OFNA Roller 190 + RCM mount 45 +body 50 = 285

- Convert my MBX5 MSR-T - Buy body mount/front bumper setup, tires, body = 125

- (buying another truck is not an option! - i promised I would not cross double digits (again)!

The MBX5 chasis is extended to truggy though and has the offset hubs - I need to check if I have the orginal parts else not sure the body will fit well.

Option 1 is sounding the best as I should get I hope 250 for the Mugen - so almost a wash.

Only question i have is reliability of the LSPP - I only just completed the conversion and immediately smoked that hybrid motor. The bumpers look a bit fragile compared to the MBX5 but I get the crt .5 ones do to and they hold up ok.

Also need to get happy with a motor in there with the flipped diff - but I'm just see a 1515 squeezed in so a 1512 should fit ok. Geared right this should be ok for a truggy? IIRC the MMM is a 1512 clone so was targetting that to go in there.

Opinions sought...

[Arct1k]

1 * http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

2 * http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Why did I not think of that - DPST hard to come by but I can just leave the second through open - correct?

[BrianG]

Yeah, but you can use a DPDT as well, just leave the second set of terminals disconnected.

Those components are really for speaker-level signals. I thought you wanted to switch the line-level signal coming out of the sound card? If so, pretty much any small DPST/DPDT switch will work. You could also use a dual pole rotary switch too. Again, just be warned about the speaker pop when you switch them...

[Arct1k]

I'll buy a cheap stero with line in and use a Y to provide signal to both.

I use your switches setup on the output of the stereo to do the a b switching post amplification.

Any thought on mugen or ofna coversions?

[suicideneil]

Ofna dominatormaxx- best of both worlds...

Interesting thread this; what I did (through much trial & error) is use a Y-splitter type cable in the back of the PC (after I tripped over the cable and ripped it out sideways from the front sockets, doh) which went into the headphone socket, then ran the other ends to my old HiFi (line in I think?). When I switch the mode to Aux on the HiFi I get my lovely PC playing through my speakers, which are amplified via the hifi its self i believe. Obviously, the better your Hifi and bigger its speakers, the more lovely the music is...

[BrianG]

I used to do the same thing, except now I use a set of Logitech speakers with a pretty potent sub and it sounds great. A little weak in the lower midrange/midbass, but that's typical of a 3 piece system that uses smaller satellites. The logitech site lists them as $150, but a while back, I got the previous years' model for free after discounts and rebates. Only costed me $30 for shipping. Believe me, it can shake things off the computer desk shelves! I've actually thought about using the 5.1 version for a budget home theater in my room.

[Arct1k]

Well went to radio shack last night so now have all the bits to build me a switch box :)

Also checked the mugen out - I don't have the buggy chassis or the normal axels so it looks like in due course I will sell the mugen if I go for doing a gtp...

[lincpimp]

Bit off topic, but does anyybody know if the mugen buggy and truggy share the same front and rear bulkheads? Or are they completely different?

[Arct1k]

They look very different... Two mount screws on truggy...

http://www.mugenseiki.co.jp/mugen/do...nual_e0020.pdf Section 25
http://www.mugenseiki.co.jp/mugen/do...nual_e0040.pdf Section 24

Still fancy my mugen or did you get one?