BCE Jammin CRT HELP

[SWAMPER]

Ok Hi all I’m new to all the brushless stuff I’m a nitro racer but going to take my Jammin BCE chassis (small spur gear from buggy) CRT and change over to a BL truggy and race with the nitro boys so need help so I can get the most out of this as I can and I do it right the first time so all your help would be much appreciated,
1. Starting with a race ready BCE chassis CRT
2. Rc monster CR buggy conversion (since my truggy is using the small spur) guess the radio tray is the same between both buggy and truggy
3. motor and ESC, CC momba monster and there 1/8 scale motor (they are coming out with a package deal with motor and esc very soon)
4. battery pack tossing the idea of running A123, eather a single 7 cell or a twin 5 or 6 cell (depends on what room I have) over a lipo for a couple reasons, one safety, two you can discharge 100% of them and not hurt them and they have a fast recharge.

5. not sure on the pinion size ?
6. and not sure on what to do for brakes ? can I just use the ESC to brake a truggy would rather not have to run a brake servo (not realy sure how that would work with a ESC in the throttle/brake slot of the RX)

7. do I run a RX pack to power the steering servo, I have a 2 cell lipo I run now, figure it will give me a little more run time if I do

8. what I’m trying to do is get it to run consistently strong no over heating at a race pace for a 30 min. main against nitro truggies and be competitive
and would be nice if I could run a 30 min. main at a race pace on a single pack but don’t think that’s possible but if I could make it over 15min. so I would only have to pit once would be the next choice if I have to pit twice I’ll never keep up with them and lose to much time in the pits.

So is my thinking a doable one or am I nuts to do this

Thanks

[RC-Monster Mike]

I use esc brakes on my stuff. Makes for an easy conversion. The CR buggy mount is ideal for use of the smaller spur gear - the mounts are otherwise compatible(same servo tray, and same hole pattern, so only the height of the mounts are different between the crt and CR mounts).
I can comfortably finish a 15 minute race on my race truggy using a Neu 1515/2.5dmotor on 5s 5000mah PQ or FP packs. My truggy weighs in at about 10 pounds even with this setup. A 30 minute race will require either a battery swap(using a similar setup as mine), or a LOT of battery, which will weigh the truck down a bit. The A123 cells are less powerful and heavier vs. a similarly powered Lipo, but if you have a couple packs and can perform a reasonably quick battery swap, they certainly will work just fine and they are a nice, safe, quick charging chemistry.
The CRT and CR mount can be positioned at the front left corner of the truck as well, which allows room for 2 battery packs behind the center diff on the chassis. swapping two packs will clearly take longer than a single pack swap of course. I use a single pack on my vehicles, but there are plenty of folks who use the dual pack strategy as well - to each his own. :)

[Arct1k]

It is not so much what spur is being used but what diff mounts are being used - If buggy then yes get the CR buggy mount.

A123 are nice but heavier/bigger and only 4600mah in 2s config - You wound need a min of 2s5p.

Pinion size - just use this site http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/ and gear for 35-40mph

RX pack no - the ESC has a bec built in

Brake servo - Not really required motor breaks work great

30 mins is V tough - 15 is pretty easy though

[SWAMPER]

the big thing i liked about the A123's over lipo's was the quick charge and lower price, i'll have to see how much room i have the BCE chassis moves the center diff a little and has a skinner chassis then stock, and you have to use the buggy center diff mount with the small gear to have it back in the right location, and was just thinking if i keep the RX pack it may give me a little more run time on the main pack, not sure if it would make that much more ? thanks for the info guys

ps: you think the new CC BL motor will work with a truggy onle reason for me is the combo deal price would be less $$$ for me

[Arct1k]

It should work fun BUT it is a 2200 (1515 1y clone iirc) motor - I think they are aiming this at a 4s setup.

Mike and I both run the 2.5 DF on 5s which 1650kv - They lower KV means less amps / heat

[SWAMPER]

the mamba monster ESC good to use ? hope so the other ones are big bucks

[SWAMPER]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

A123 are nice but heavier/bigger and only 4600mah in 2s config - You wound need a min of 2s5p.

well a twin pack of A123's (2 5 cell packs) would weigh the same as a 5s 5000 lipo around 1.5lbs, now the size is where i would have to see if they fit and not sure if the run time will match a lipo

[Arct1k]

PolyQuest XP Lipo 5s 5000mah 25c 642 g / 22.65 oz
Tanic 6s1p A123 474 gr ( 16 oz)

i,e, 642 vs 948g

Almost 50% heavier....

[SWAMPER]

strange i just took there cell weight 70g each x 10cells = 1.5432 lbs

[Arct1k]

Wire / Wrap etc - You also only did 10 cells - 5s2p A123 is more like 4s Lipo (520g - 18oz)

[SWAMPER]

still looking just ordered the motor mount and after that i can see what room i have to play with, how well do the truggy's handel with the B/L set up, like jumping and adjusting while in the air (brake/gas)

Thanks for all the help

[Arct1k]

My ST jumps straight a true - Easy to adjust with break and throttle... no gas LOL!

You can adjust the balance with battery placement...

Rotating the diff and motor mount in the CRT though does nicely allow for saddle packs in the rear - I did this in my LSP - You should be able to find pics in the truggy thread - I was intending to run 2 x 3s2p packs in the rear.

[Arct1k]

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...&highlight=LSP

[SWAMPER]

So as I’m learning all the brushless info looks like the Neu motors are the ticket now whats the difference between them all (sorry still have nitro in my head)
There so many to chose from 1521/1y/f , 1515 2.5d/f, 1512 2.5d/f are just a few is there a link that breaks down what all the numbers mean ?

[Arct1k]

1515 2.5 d/f

15 - Series of motor
12 - Length of rotor - Magnet in the middle - you want a 1515 for a truggy
2.5 - The wind of the motor - dictates how fast it spins for a give voltage
D/Y - Delta vs Wye - The way the wires are wound give slightly different torque and speed properties
f - Finned to help with heat disipation

Easiest thing is to first determine the size of motor 1515 for Truggy/MT and 1512 for buggy is most common - then decide on the Voltage and ESC - Recomend 5s for Truggy and 4s for Buggy.

Then find a Motor that works - I love the 1515 2.5D/F 1650KV in the truggy - It is flexible enough to run 4/5/6s.

I hope that helps.