Success at last!! Still a couple of 16016 ???s - RC-Monster Forums

standard_63 · **Success at last!! Still a couple of 16016 ???s -** 10.03.2005, 10:09 AM

So I finally got my 16016/7XL wired up and ran it for the first time yesterday with 12/51 gearing and 4s lipos. I ran the whole pack going up and down the street doing speed runs and everything was barely warm!! :L: Finally a combo that doesn't thermal on me!! I had 120f on the controller and motor, and 105f on the batteries. I guesstimate around 30mph or so, maybe almost 40 since it seemed at least as fast as my nitro Revo on the street. I may try a 14/51 but I don't know if I need that...

I went through all the programming and I think I got it set the way I want for car, set everything to #1 setting except for freewheel to yes. I left it at nimh setting for now as I didn't want to deal with cutouts for lv on the batteries, I wanted to see how well it would run at full current.

Before programming the whole thing I was experiencing bad motor braking after letting off full throttle. The truck would endo instead of coasting. After programming it seemed to run and coast great. But after a liitle while of running, occasionaly the controller would seem to cut out and I would get no input, then it would beep once and kick in motor braking a liitle bit and do a small endo. Then it would run normally for awhile and then occasionally do that again. Once I heard it beep twice after it stopped, but then ran normally again. Shortly after the batteries ran down, was this just a symtom of low batteries, or just a glitch with this controller?

So far it seems to deal with heat/current much better than my BK 9920, as with the same setup the 9920 ran up to 165f before I stopped running -- couldn't even get a full pack thru it.

MetalMan · 10.03.2005, 10:14 AM

Try it with the LVC set for 4s Lipo. Your batts aren't really getting hot at all, so you shouldn't experience any cutouts. Besides, I'm sure you paid a lot for you batteries. Don't let them go to waste.

Batfish · 10.03.2005, 11:52 AM

I have had a similar "cut out" problem with my 12012 controllers. I now believe it's due to current spikes. It seems to happen most often when I jab at the throttle or brake. The vehicle will stop responding to input for 2-5 seconds, beep, then be back to full control.
The controller doesn't get hot, nor does the motor, so I've ruled out thermalling.

It happened almost regularly in my MGT, geared 15/51 with the center diff. I've since switched to 12/51 and will see how it reacts this Thursday night at the track. The 12/51 gearing didn't cut out in my back yard at all during testing.

coolhandcountry · 10.03.2005, 12:47 PM

Hey joe. If you put an extra capictor in the line with the batteries and esc. Do you think this would help you? I not sure if it would help or not.

RC-Monster Mike · 10.03.2005, 09:40 PM

I believe it is a voltage cutout you are experiencing. As the batteries run down, there voltage runs down and a hard start(rapid acceleration) will drop the voltage low enough to trigger the controller to cut out. If you put the controller in "race mode" on the low voltage option, it should eliminate this, unless your total voltage drops below 5 volts.

Batfish · 10.03.2005, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RC-Monster Mike
I believe it is a voltage cutout you are experiencing. As the batteries run down, there voltage runs down and a hard start(rapid acceleration) will drop the voltage low enough to trigger the controller to cut out. If you put the controller in "race mode" on the low voltage option, it should eliminate this, unless your total voltage drops below 5 volts.

Mike,
I'd agree, except that with the voltage cut-out on the MGM we still have servo control, whereas with this specific cut-out there is no servo control until the controller beeps and re-arms.

standard_63 · 10.05.2005, 09:17 AM

Yeah, last night I had this cut out with freshly charged batteries. I also had a problem with the brakes going on almost all the the time except for sometimes it would freewheel just fine. I'm going to reprogram it tonight and try it again.

After about 20 minutes of running the controller was still only 130f or so, but the motor got up to 195f. At 10min it was only 135f or so and the controller was cool. I'm thinking this is normal for running so long, or should I gear down some more? I'm running 12/51 right now, with UE diffs and 40 series mulchers. On the street it never got hot at all, but in the backyard track it did after 20 minutes...

Batfish · 10.05.2005, 09:33 AM

When you go from throttle directly to neutral, the MGM will freewheel no matter the programming options. It sounds like you're freewheel option is "off" and you may just be going right to neutral sometimes, but move to different throttle speeds other times.
If you don't already have one, put a fan on the motor and see if that drops the temps below 180F. If it does, I wouldn't worry about the gearing. If you already have a fan, consider dropping one or two teeth on the pinion.
Your setup should definitely run hotter on the track than on the street.

By the way - great to hear that you got the truck going and that (almost) everything is working great! :)

standard_63 · 10.05.2005, 02:12 PM

I'm pretty sure I'm programmed to freewheel, but even if not last night I would completely let off the throttle and it would hit the brakes. Like in the air off a jump even. :eek: Not so pretty to instantly endo and tumble down. I ended up having to keep slight throttle on when jumping and turning to eliminate the endo problem, as it would coast in neutral only sometimes. Brakes seemed to work normally otherwise.

I have the smallest setting for nuetral zone, maybe it's not working right with my radio... MarsEX1.