Center diff in emaxx help needed

[twisted8]

i have a center diff in my emaxx and ive run the truck and the front end is unloading more then i would like BUT when i go into a corner and nail the throttle it still wants to pull the front end up....

im running a mmm 2200 combo geared at 19/68, the throttle curve is adjusted so that i have a smoother start, then the power comes on gradually. im running 2 5000mah 28c 2c lipos. diffs are , 60 front,500k/100k or what ever it comes with from the factory in the center and 30 rear.
also running badland tires.

truck handles pretty good but i need the wheelie action to decrease a bit. my friend is convinced if i put the solid center back in that will cure it and i tell him that it will make the wheelies worst.

any ideas ?

[magman]

Heavier center diff fluid should help the front tires from unloading as much. Find out what diff oil came w/the truck and put in heavier, it should help

[twisted8]

Originally Posted by magman

Heavier center diff fluid should help the front tires from unloading as much. Find out what diff oil came w/the truck and put in heavier, it should help

its either 100k or 500k. theres documentation saying its both. alot of people say its 500k. if thats the case going heavier would be like putting the spool back in.

[magman]

It will help....In my crt.5, I was having the same prob...went up in weight, problem solved!

[E-Revonut]

heavier diff fluid isn't going to help with wheelies though! It may help with the front tires not unloading but that isn't the only thing he's trying to address.

Twisted - Are you running 4,5,or 6s? If your running more than 4s try dropping the voltage and gearing for the same speed. That should give you a little less power but still have the same speed.

[twisted8]

im running 4s.

[E-Revonut]

I think your SOL then!!! Lighter diff fluid will help with keeping wheelies at a minimum, but the front will unload more. Heavier will keep the front from unloading as much but it will wheelie more. Taking the center diff out, putting the original shaft back in, will not help with taming the wheelies!

Lighten up your trigger finger! That will help with the front unloading and the wheelies!

[squeeforever]

Your not SOL just yet. When you say its unloading, is it just one of the wheels (should be the inside wheel) or both? If its just one, you need heavier fluid up front. Either way, I'd try some heavier fluid up front and that should tame it done a bit. If wheelies still persist, then lighten up the center a little.

[JERRY2KONE]

You could also install a UE monoblock to extend the chassis by 30mm or so and that will take care of the wheelie issue. Of course you would also have to acquire a longer custom dogbone to drive the rear diff.

[twisted8]

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

You could also install a UE monoblock to extend the chassis by 30mm or so and that will take care of the wheelie issue. Of course you would also have to acquire a longer custom dogbone to drive the rear diff.

i was looking into getting one of them nut thats almost 100 then another 20 or so for a drive shaft then i still need drive cups. might as well buy a chassis. (unless you havea used one for sale )

im running 60k in the front diff, went up from from what i was running and it is better. maybe programming the mmm and driving a bit more conservatively will help ?
or maybe i should go up on the pinion ? running 19/68 now.

the options are not depleted yet ! i was just looking for some inside info so i head in the rite direction.

[JERRY2KONE]

Originally Posted by twisted8

i was looking into getting one of them nut thats almost 100 then another 20 or so for a drive shaft then i still need drive cups. might as well buy a chassis. (unless you havea used one for sale )

im running 60k in the front diff, went up from from what i was running and it is better. maybe programming the mmm and driving a bit more conservatively will help ?
or maybe i should go up on the pinion ? running 19/68 now.

the options are not depleted yet ! i was just looking for some inside info so i head in the rite direction.

The monoblock is still your best bet, because it is a move forward in improving your handling without going backwards in performance. The mono is like $65 and you can get drive cups there just as well cheaply, and then order the driveshaft from RCAlloys for $20 shipped. You already spent good money for the MMM combo, why compromise on anything else?

[twisted8]

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

The monoblock is still your best bet, because it is a move forward in improving your handling without going backwards in performance. The mono is like $65 and you can get drive cups there just as well cheaply, and then order the driveshaft from RCAlloys for $20 shipped. You already spent good money for the MMM combo, why compromise on anything else?

im not compromising but why the mono block instead of say a flm chassis or gorrilla max ?

[JERRY2KONE]

Originally Posted by twisted8

im not compromising but why the mono block instead of say a flm chassis or gorrilla max ?

Like I stated the monoblock is only $65. Any of those options are good ones. The monobock is pretty simple and straight forward without having to rebuild the whole truck.

[suicideneil]

Sway bars perhaps- there are a few models for the emaxx suspension that will help with the inside wheel lifting (its thats the issue). Just easing off the the throttle more when going into corners will help too.

[twisted8]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Sway bars perhaps- there are a few models for the emaxx suspension that will help with the inside wheel lifting (its thats the issue). Just easing off the the throttle more when going into corners will help too.

im having more of na issue with the front lifting on acceleration.