1/10 ST racing

[BL_RV0]

Guys, thought today about getting a 1/10 ST to try out "stock class" racing. What do you think? What do you recommend as a good setup?

[Metallover]

CRT .5 w/ extended chassis... skip the stock class though.

[BL_RV0]

Ok maybe I will. Maybe a medusa 50mm and a sidewinder on 2s then? (I don't want a CRT .5 though, they won't allow that in ST racing.

[Metallover]

Nah, don't got for that small ball crap.... Get an 80mm medusa and run on as least 6s.

[squeeforever]

Normally they'll limit you pretty bad. 6 cells or probably 2S lipo, stock motor (most likely no brushless in stock class since its exactly that a stock motor class), 2wd ST of course, along with a bunch of other specific crap. when I was running stock buggy we couldn't even use NiMHs...and that was when the NiMH were really starting to take off and get popular. I would probably get a Losi though...I could run circles around the AEs with my XXX BK.

[pedeboi364]

rusty xl5 or VXL...

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by pedeboi364

rusty xl5 or VXL...

That would be a good truck as far as durability, parts availability, low cost, but its not that great for a race track.

[Metallover]

What about a jato?

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by Metallover

What about a jato?

There better for the track, but from what little I've seen on converted Jatos, they don't have any traction what so ever. Thats why the motor is over the rear end on all the electric stadium trucks and buggies.

[BL_RV0]

I have a vxl rustler, I am planning to sell to fund a racing project. Do they have any "mod" classes? What are the limits there?

[rootar]

get a T4 team kit (not the FT! not worth the money and beak easier) check and see what classes they run at your local track, (most run a 10.5 spec class, or a mod/open class) and some run a 13.5 spec class if these are the case youll have to waste your money of a spec system but if they would allow it i would go for a MM or sidewinder with a 3300 medusa 50mm motor and a good 2s enerland 5000 pack...... gear it for mid to upper 30s and youll be good to go. also youll want to switch to 25wt oil and green springs in the rear over the standard setup to compensate for the lighter lipo setup, that or my advice would be to add stick on lead weights down the side of the tray.....

[lincpimp]

Skip the AE and get the xxxt-cr losi truck. I have a xxx-cr buggy and it is an exceptionally strong and light vehicle. Very well engineered and the manual is about the best I have seen. Plus the price is decent, especially for everything you get. If you want to win, this is your best bet. It will run circles around a rusty...

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Skip the AE and get the xxxt-cr losi truck. I have a xxx-cr buggy and it is an exceptionally strong and light vehicle. Very well engineered and the manual is about the best I have seen. Plus the price is decent, especially for everything you get. If you want to win, this is your best bet. It will run circles around a rusty...

Yup. He'll also run circles around a AE.
My buggy was the best flying buggy I've ever driven. It flew as straight and level as possible.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Yup. He'll also run circles around a AE.
My buggy was the best flying buggy I've ever driven. It flew as straight and level as possible.

I beat the crap out of mine, and it took it like a champ. I broke one arm, thats it. Still feels smooth and no slack.

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

I beat the crap out of mine, and it took it like a champ. I broke one arm, thats it. Still feels smooth and no slack.

Honestly, my old BK use to break parts pretty easily, but it was mostly cause of all the graphite I think.