Looking to convert an MBX5T

[Shimmy]

Hey fellas...

There's a very real chance I might be getting an MBX5T soon (just gotta go check it out/pick it up) and just trying to find a motor I could grab for it.

I am looking to go 6s (closest track is about a couple of hundered k's away, so I'm after a bashing setup), using the turnigy/Zippy 25c 5ah lipos.

I am kinda doing on the cheap side at the moment, kinda planning on upgrading later on but keeping everything as backups.

The motor I am looking at is the Leopard 4074 1400kv.
http://www.rc-fans88.com/details.asp?prodid=2214

Found a few cheaper ones but not enough info or were 2 poles.
I don't really want to go much higher than 1500kv, 1600kv at the most.

I would like to gear it for low 40mph/mid-high 60kph, I figure this would need about a 17t or 18t pinion?

As for the ESC, I am looking at the Turnigy Trackstar or Hobbyking 150A.
I am hoping I will be able to run mechanical brakes.

Is it possible to be able to turn a servo off but still have control over the travel?
As mentioned I would like mechanical brakes but reverse would be nice also.
Could a switch be made to close or break a power or signal wire to the servo?
I assume this would need a 4ch radio though (I only have a 3).

As for tyres would it be possible to run the Proline Moabs?
I would like a general bashing set of tyres and these fit the bill for the most part I think.

Any help would be much appreciated.

May I suggest going for a longer can Leopard? I owuld recommend that you go with the 4082/2Y/1500kv motor. Should give you a bit of extra torque I think. Price difference isn't huge neither. CLICK HERE.

Between the two ESCs you suggested I would side with the HW 150A XERUN because it has been around longer and has proven it self. I have a coule of Trackstars that I set up in friends cars but it is early days to comment on their reliability. Even with HW ESC remember that the MMM is only a few dollars more.

Yes you can remotely switch your servo off and all you need is a three channel radio and a switch like this one. CLICK HERE. Just power your brake servo from this switch so when you switch it off on your third channel your brake servo will have no power. Just make sure you get the wiring side of things right. Then you should be able to go in reverse.

You should be fine running Mobas. The wheel off-set will be determining factor if everything will fit and not rub on the suspension arm or the body of the truck. This you will have to figure out your self but you might need to go to wheels with half inch off-set is what I am expecting.

Make sure you post plenty of pics once you are on your way building this truggy.

[Shimmy]

Thanks for the reply mate.

Yeah, a longer can would be nice, ya reckon it would be better going the 1500kv or 1250kv, was thinking that going longer would probably be better to go lower, easier on the esc and lipos and should be able to gear up the difference.

I have sent an email to RCFans88 asking if they could get either in, their prices seem to be a fair bit cheaper than anywhere else, and not too bad to deal with (have dealt with them before).

As for the ESC, I wouldn't mind the Hobbywing and will probably get one eventually.
I have been reading a little on the HK 150A (are these a rebadged HW?) and it seems these are pretty tough, people have been putting them in truggies, MGT's, savages... etc
Havn't really read anything that bad about them.

Also, because it is cheaper, I am thinking that if the magic smoke dam broke its walls I wouldn't really lose any money by getting an MMM or RX8 repaired (cost of postage, possibly both ways and price of the repair itself).
And I would be dreaming if I thought that an MMM or RX8 would be that much more reliable, haha.

Not to mention, it's easier for me to justify at the moment getting a cheaper esc, the HW Xerun is about an extra $50-$60?, MMM and RX8 $100+?

Yeah, I keep thinking the same of the trackstars/toro8... it is a bit early to know if they are any good.


I figured it would be something like that to get reverse.
Run the servo from a Y harness with the esc?
Wiring shouldn't be too hard, only need to kill one wire.

I read a couple of people having a couple of issues with running 40 series rubber, didn't think of the offset, if it's still a bit tight for room, I guess I could sacrifice some EPA (figure it shouldn't need too much).

I will be taking plenty of pics when this gets up and going, probably even a video or 2.

Cheers.

[el tomaso]

What about a xerun 150A esc/4274SL 2000kv combo, it may be cheaper and thats a good motor and esc. I have the motor, and had the esc. I think its comparable to castle/neu 2200kv, but at 2000kv its better for 6s lipo.

As for the conversion I'd go for the RCM motormount and the RCM MBX6T batt tray. Simple and functional. Mech brakes is nice and I was very set on it for my cars, but now I like motorbrakes too. Try them first. But mech brakes can be added to the front easily, with the motor in the rear.


Thomas G

[Shimmy]

I do like the Hobbywing stuff, and might grab the 150a esc one day.
I am looking for a lower KV motor, about 1600kv at the most.

I am thinking also the motor mount for the Caster truggy, I assume they would fit but might be abit more limited on gearing and motor size.

Does the MBX6T battery tray fit on the MBX5T?
The main reason I was thinking of getting a different battery tray is to be cheaper.
I understand why these ones cost $35, but its not worth it to me.

I thought about just leaving it with motor brakes but the main reason I want mechanical ones is to be easier on the esc, I figure if I give it an easy life, it will have a long life, especially on 6s.

On another note, does anyone know if the 1717 castle/neu motor will fit or if these mugens can handle that kind of power?
The other one I am thinking of is the Leopard 4082 1250kv (not sure if this is a bit too low a kv though).

[magman]

i have converted 2 mugen mbx-5s, one truggy and one buggy. Here's is a pic of my truggy..








I am running a 1520 castle motor and mmm esc on 5s and it rips. So much so that I have blown 2 diffs apart. I forgot to re-shim them after the conversion. After you do the conversion, you MUST re-shim the diffs or you will blow up a set. I personally would buy either a Tekin set up or a Castle set up or some combination of both for your rig. Much better components IMO than what you have listed.

I am using a RC monster motor mount and RC Monster custom battery tray.

[Shimmy]

Cool, nice lookin truggy.
What KV is that 1520?

Ok, so... 1717... no, haha.
I was only looking at the 1717 because castle has it on sale for $70 (unless it's some BS price)?

I have read about the need to shim up the diffs after converting to electric, hopefully I get it right.

Castle/Tekin may be the better setup, but if I went that way I would be looking at well over $300, the setup I'm looking at will be about $150-$170 or so.

Whatever I may save later down the track is kinda pointless to me anyway.

Castle charges $50 flat rate to repair correct?, its probably about $15-$20 to post, do that both ways (unless they pay to send it back?) and I am looking at about $80-90... I could buy another esc for that.

I already have a leopard motor (a 3650 2930 for my Losi Desert truck).
I have no complaints about it (great motor), the main thing I am thinking of now is would I notice much of a difference from a 4064 and 4072.
If I go the 4072 way, I'm not sure if I should get the 1500kv or the 1250kv.
I am thinking the 1500 KV would be more fun.

Also, a wye wound motor would be best for a truggy right?

[magman]

The 1520 is 1600 kv. I truly understand your delema as far as the difference cost wise between set ups. A while back when money was tight I decided to go the cheaper route with my truggy. Well, lets just say that it didn't go so well. Remember , the electronics are the heart and soul of the truck not to mention you are trying to push around a 11+ lb truck. The heaver the truck, the more crutial it is for quality components AND propper gearing. If you skimp on the electronics, you will end up spending more in the end. Many of us here have had to learn that the hard way. ALL of my trucks have Castle controllers in them and this is not by accident. All but one have Castle motors as well, the exception is my Slash which has a Tekin only for the sensored set up.

If you plan on running a 6s set up, the 1250kv would work. Just curious, what diameter cans are the leopard motors?

[Shimmy]

Woah, I was expecting something a bit higher (although the 1520 is a pretty long can though).

Yeah, I admit I am kinda trying to do it cheaply (money is a bit tight at the moment), and understand what kinda loads are going on (being a heavy truggy and spinning big tyres and all), which is why I was thinking the low kv/high voltage setup with mechanical brakes would be good.

The esc I am looking at doesn't seem too bad, havn't read that many bad things (although, they aren't as popular it seems, as a hobbywing, castle or tekin).

I might get a big brand esc one day, I am hoping the esc I am looking at will get me a few months atleast.
If I do go for a big brand one, I think it will be a Tekin one, just something about it I prefer over the Castle.

I am planing on starting off with low-ish gearing... about a 14t or so and eventually get it up to about 18 (if the setup permits, gonna grab one of the turnigy amp meters to help out a bit), with moab 40 series tyres (pretty damn tall at 6.9") although it will be a little while before I get the tyres, I'll sort out the rest of the stuff first.


If you plan on running a 6s set up, the 1250kv would work. Just curious, what diameter cans are the leopard motors?[/QUOTE]

The motor I am looking at is 39.8mm x 72mm,
It's the 4072 2.5Y 1250kv.
http://www.leopardhobby.com/product/...ionID=01020201

[magman]

Use this guide http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html to figure out speeds, gearing, etc. A priceless tool

[Shimmy]

I have been using that actually, brilliant, really handy.

I think it was about 17t, the speed is about 40, I would like to have around 40-45mph, should hit my target speed of about 60 kph.

Would need a pretty big area for anything much faster I think.
My Losi Desert truck is geared for 50kph and am trying to find a couple of larger areas to use it (although still perfectly usable in smaller areas, just trying to find a spot where I could use that speed offroad).

[Shimmy]

Well I got it, will post pics and more info up soon...

[Shimmy]

Got some pics up on the link below.
http://tinypic.com/a/2l0mf/3

One is pretty much complete (biggest thing missing is the brake/throttle linkage) and the other is missing front hubs, servo-servo saver link, one body mount and 2 brake calipers.

The complete one has a BCE chassis, the other standard.
From what I can see and what was with them, one was a standard model and the other a Prospec but the standard one has pretty much all the prospec bits on it (that I can see) with the BCE chassis and carbon shock towers.
Got these 2, the tyres and bodies pictured and about 15 or so spare arms (fronts and rear), 3 spare diffs (one not quite complete though), about 6 cvd drive shafts and 2 centre drive shafts, CNC shock towers, CNC chassis braces (will most likely put these on, take off the plastic ones).

Got it all for AU$400, my brother and I are going in halves though, so we will both have one.

The downsides are, there are a few screws that are either very tight or rounded out (possibly done with a drill, need to get a dremel to get them out I think), the odd screw missing (got enough to cover them though, thinking about a tonys screw kit aswell).
Other than that, it all seems pretty good to me.

Just on the slow road to get all the electric stuff.

[Shimmy]

Been thinking a bit more of the mechanical brakes and reverse thingy and have come to the conclusion that it will never work.

The idea of being able to switch off the brake servo to get reverse would work but the motor would always be wanting to go into reverse.

Would be cool if there was a way of getting the servo and esc to talk to each other.

I have found a way of mounting the brake servo, will require making a new servo plate and drilling a couple of holes but should fit nicely.

Not sure yet if I want to run mechanical brakes or motor brakes.
I would prefer mechanical but losing reverse and having to make a new servo plate would be a PITA.

Although if I go with the moabs I think I will have to make my own front shock tower anyway (I think I could get away with the rear one), the chassis would never bottom out I dont think.
While the rear would be very close but thinking that by the time the tyre compresses it will bottom out (with any luck).

The spur gears a little worn, might run them for a little while but will eventually put in the RC8 diff with plastic spur I think.

Gonna pull the diffs and shocks off soon to shim up and re-oil (need to get more oil), thinking of going with 20k - 50k - 10k at first but might go a bit thicker later down the track if it needs it (I have 50k, 30k and 7k right now).
What would be a good weight for the shocks?
I have some 30w (nearly empty bottle though), 40wt and 45wt
(all losi oils aside from the 45wt which is AE, have decided to stick with AE shock oils).

[Shimmy]

I havn't gotten very far, just made my 4th purchase for the conversion...

I got the wrench and screws from an MBX6T, it was only $20 something delivered, figured if only a few screws/nuts fit, it would still be good, dont have the wrench either (do now).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...253D&viewitem=

Got some Purple shock socks http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....E:L:OC:AU:1123

Gorilla Snawt http://cgi.ebay.com/GORILLA-SNAWT-RC...item29fa627850


And the 4th order I just made was a bunch of parts, diffs, some hudy tools, traxxas receiver box, DE skids, and some other stuff.


I have decided on the Leopard 4082 1600kv motor, with the HobbyKing 150a esc running 6s Zippy 30c lipos.
Might be getting a 36 74 1300kv locally aswell, see how it goes.

RC Monster motor mount, I really like the Elite RC one but I just cant justify the price of it, the RC Monster one is hard enough to justify aswell, I don't see $50 worth of materials and R&D in it (I can see the R&D in the elite rc one though) if I had access to a mill I would be making my own.

Gonna grab the Hobbyking 200w charger too, run it off the HiModel 15v 23a PSU.
Will be muuuuuuuuuccch better than my 50w charger.

I have been thinking about grabbing a small generator (about 400-800w) so when we go away for a day or weekend trip, we can just keep charging the batts all day, near non stop (getting 3 lipos now, might get another in the future).

Will be ordering the rest next week.