 |
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 163
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
Flux impressions, and Thoughts On Electric MT's in General! -
09.12.2010, 11:35 AM
Ok, so after three weeks of slowly rebuilding a used flux I got, I finally finished it yesterday and took it for a run. All I can say is, WOW!        (Had to get that out of the way) Anyways, right now I'm only running 2 Turnigy 2s 5200mah 30c hardcase batteries. Standing backflips are insane! I can't imagine what 5s and 6s would be like (But I'll find out soon). Quick side note: Is it ok for me to run a 3s 5000mah 30c lipo and a 2s 5200mah lipo in series? So, I read up pretty good on the forums, and I did a lot of stuff on my truck that was recomended. Koodos to Freeze for some good tips. I sealed my motor with screws and electric tape. I also did the other things recomended, like stronger bumper screws, ziptieing the motor in place so it doesn't move, battery box stuff, and other little things like that. I also did the steering mod, which I think is a must have. Almost has as good of turning radius as my E-Revo with Slayden steering mods. I am also running a Hitec 7955TG steering servo with longer steering arm, and bearings on the posts. Very smooth now, and i love this servo! I shimmed my BP diffs on the inside with and extra big washer and it removes a lot of play inside of them. Filled them up with 50K oil and used soem losi high pressure grease on the orings so they doen't leak. So far, so good. In the tranny, I have all HD gears, except the 18-23T one. We'll see how long that lasts. Hoepfully a while though, because I shimmed it with extra diffs shims i bought. No play inside now, and full contact with all gears. This is a MUST for me. On the shocks, I did the tube mod with on spacer, white springs, and 45wt losi shock oil. Really like thsi setup. Not too stiff, but relly absorbs a lot. Not sure why Freeze didn't like it. I also have some bad horsie shock socks, which are very nice. One of the biggest things I did to my flux was use a Tony's screw kit. Really didn't like the phillips heads. Tony's screws are very nice and high quality. Only complaint is the kit didn't include and of the pins that were partly smooth and partly screw. I also installed the HPI swaybar kit, which I think is a really good upgrade because of how much harder it is to tip the truck (sideways, that is  ). plus the hinge cap things are really handy.
Now, as some of you know, I recently sold my Custom Carbon Fiber Brushless E-Revo project to get a flux. Why? Because from all the views I collected, it was most unanimous that the Flux could bash much harder than the E-Revo. Youtube vids speak for themselves. (Though, to say, I believe my conversion was much sturdier than the plastic chassis e-revo). While building my truck, i was a little concerned about whether I would miss the handling of my E-revo. But my e-revo really bottomed out too much during bashing. So anyways, after driving my Flux, all of my doubts are gone. Backflips are too much fun! And it really didn't handle all that much worse than my revo, whith the stiffer shocks and swaybars. Plus now I don't really have to worry abotu the drivetrain anymore. Also, I have the TCS 5mm chassis on my truck, and couldn't be happier. It looks great, and these things aren't going to bend. I was considering getting an XL chassis, but now I think that the shorter wheelbase really makes the truck a blast to drive in the air, and the ground. Backflipping MT's are way too much fun to drive and watch. For me, MT's are for hardcore bashing. If you want something that hadnles sweet, get a buggy or turggy (which I have)
Another sidenote. I am currently running soem proline mashers and badlnads MT on RPM Revolver stablemaxx rims. Soem people say they hate them, but personally, they have been great on both my Revo and Savage. As a testomony to their durability, "someone" accidently ran of the a wheel on my revo while I still had that. There was a small dent in the inside of the wheel, and a small crack ont he outside. That's it. And so far it has withstanded the power of the MMM in both my trcuks just fine. Just if any of you were interested.
R.I.P. Muggy, Rustler, VXL Slash
EFlite Blade MSR Heli (Slightly modded)
1/16 BL E-revo
8-t 2.0, OS Vspec with Speed conrod
Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 Coversion Madness!
Last edited by Muggydude; 09.12.2010 at 11:41 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 163
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
09.12.2010, 11:48 AM
By the way, i'll post of a complete thread with a parts list and pics soon!
R.I.P. Muggy, Rustler, VXL Slash
EFlite Blade MSR Heli (Slightly modded)
1/16 BL E-revo
8-t 2.0, OS Vspec with Speed conrod
Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 Coversion Madness!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster RC8T
Offline
Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
|
09.12.2010, 12:08 PM
No you can't run a 2s 5200mah and a 3s 5000mah in series! They need to be the same other than the number of cells in series (S) in each pack. Ex. If you had a 2s 5200mah and a 3s 5200mah or 3s 5000mah and a 2s 5000mah that would be ok. They also need to be the same brand and specs other than voltage. Don't run a turnigy and a different brand.
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 163
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
09.12.2010, 12:27 PM
Well, i was thinking 2s 5200mah 30c turnigy and 3s 5000mah 30c turnigy. What would happen if I did this?
R.I.P. Muggy, Rustler, VXL Slash
EFlite Blade MSR Heli (Slightly modded)
1/16 BL E-revo
8-t 2.0, OS Vspec with Speed conrod
Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 Coversion Madness!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster RC8T
Offline
Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
|
09.12.2010, 12:30 PM
DON'T DO IT!!! They aren't the same mah! The 5000mah will die before the 5200mah and you will go below 3V/cell on the 5000's before the 5200 hit the cut off, you risk destroying your lipos!
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
09.12.2010, 01:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Revonut
DON'T DO IT!!! They aren't the same mah! The 5000mah will die before the 5200mah and you will go below 3V/cell on the 5000's before the 5200 hit the cut off, you risk destroying your lipos!
|
Yep, same thing I said in BYT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 453
Join Date: Mar 2006
|
09.17.2010, 01:59 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Revonut
DON'T DO IT!!! They aren't the same mah! The 5000mah will die before the 5200mah and you will go below 3V/cell on the 5000's before the 5200 hit the cut off, you risk destroying your lipos!
|
Just set the cut-off to a higher and safe number like 3.4v and it will be fine. That small 200mah difference isn't a big deal.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster RC8T
Offline
Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
|
09.17.2010, 11:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmr4life
Just set the cut-off to a higher and safe number like 3.4v and it will be fine. That small 200mah difference isn't a big deal.
|
If you want to risk your lipos, esc, truck, and possibly life thats up to you.
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 453
Join Date: Mar 2006
|
09.17.2010, 11:33 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Revonut
If you want to risk your lipos, esc, truck, and possibly life thats up to you.
|
Don't be so over-dramatic. Batteries in series see the same current. They will discharge at the same rate. If you run the batteries down to 0 mah left you were running them dangerously low to begin with.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 163
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
09.12.2010, 01:40 PM
quick Q: The fan on my MMM goes on for like 30 seconds intermittently through the run, and then turns off. Just messing around in the street, wheelies and backflips and stuff. Hardly any high speed runs. I touch the motor and ESC and both are only warm, not even hot to touch. I know the fan is supposed to come on at 150 degrees, but it doesn't seem nearly that hot?
R.I.P. Muggy, Rustler, VXL Slash
EFlite Blade MSR Heli (Slightly modded)
1/16 BL E-revo
8-t 2.0, OS Vspec with Speed conrod
Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 Coversion Madness!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
09.12.2010, 01:43 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
quick Q: The fan on my MMM goes on for like 30 seconds intermittently through the run, and then turns off. Just messing around in the street, wheelies and backflips and stuff. Hardly any high speed runs. I touch the motor and ESC and both are only warm, not even hot to touch. I know the fan is supposed to come on at 150 degrees, but it doesn't seem nearly that hot?
|
Completely normal. Despite what some people think *cough, Brian*, esc fans are very good for us casual brushless users
http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...html#monster11
Quote:
11. Why does the fan on the Mamba Monster not run all the time or turns on for a split second when I power up the controller, then shuts off?
The fan will run until the speed control is armed. After the speed control arms, it will shut down until speed controller reaches 150°; If your speed control is running under 150° F, the fan will never turn on.
|
Last edited by Freezebyte; 09.12.2010 at 01:44 PM.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster RC8T
Offline
Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
|
09.12.2010, 01:48 PM
Also take note that you are touching the outside of the esc and the temp sensor for the fan is reading the temp at the control board. The plastic casing will stay cool to the touch unless you catch the thing on fire!
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 163
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
09.12.2010, 01:55 PM
I see. But think it's ok since it's only going on for a few seconds? So it's probably right around 145 the whole run. What's the max accepted temp? Also, why would the motor be cool, and the ESC hot(ish)?
R.I.P. Muggy, Rustler, VXL Slash
EFlite Blade MSR Heli (Slightly modded)
1/16 BL E-revo
8-t 2.0, OS Vspec with Speed conrod
Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 Coversion Madness!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster RC8T
Offline
Posts: 2,554
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Syracuse, New York (Camillus)
|
09.12.2010, 02:01 PM
It's fine for the fan to run, thats why its there. The max safe temp IIRC is 180, at least thats what I think the thermal shutoff kicks in at. I wouldn't be to concerned about the temp of the esc, it has the fan there as well as a thermal cut off to protect itself. Worry more about the temp of your motor and lipos. Also your saying not even hot to touch, get a temp gun, it's $25 well spent to protect all your electronics, trying to guess the temperature by feeling it is just being a cheap skate, spend the money and get a temp gun!!!
RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 163
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
09.12.2010, 02:04 PM
I have one! Just forgot to get it out last night. i'll bring it with me today! LOL
R.I.P. Muggy, Rustler, VXL Slash
EFlite Blade MSR Heli (Slightly modded)
1/16 BL E-revo
8-t 2.0, OS Vspec with Speed conrod
Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 Coversion Madness!
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11 Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com
|
 |