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Check out my huge box!
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Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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10.03.2007, 09:53 PM
I have a brand new quake se still in the box, PM if interested.
I would not suggest that motor. 7k is too high rpm and that motor will not have enough torque to push the tall gearing of the quake. Plus it has a 2mm shaft, to use the stock pinions you need a 2.3mm shaft.
This motor wil work great with your lipo and fit stock gears, motors mount and servo location: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJAB4&P=7
I have had this motor in my quake and it works great. The 33 amp quark is also a good choice, much smoother than the mamba 25 and startup is better. Al knuckles are also a good idea, the plastic ones break and the graphite ones break if you look at them funny! Keep the diffs tight, they need to be checked. Front and rear bumpers take a beating, have spares on hand. Std steering servo is overkill, I use a 3303 futaba plastic gear and it is way too fast and has plenty of power. A 10 buck servo is all you need. I use the 10th scale wheel adapters, have used the mini t adapters but the tires look too small on the quake. The adapters are on ebay, can't seem to find them at the moment. Stock wheels and tires are fine, I just wanted to use foams on mine! I like my quake the best out of all the minis that i have owned, they are all sold now. I bought the new se listed above as a replacement for mine, but it does not appear to be wearing out, so i wil sell the new one! Let me know if you are interested.
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Check out my huge box!
Offline
Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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10.03.2007, 10:16 PM
Bishop actually has a package deal with the the gh4700 and the procar 33. It is a great deal!
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Always Willing to Obtain More Knowledge
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Posts: 1,482
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Chicago
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10.03.2007, 10:17 PM
ill second that motor definatly get the golden horizons 4700 or 3500(i believe or somewhere in that area) motors they are made for the biger vehicles and work much better in there.
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BMW M Power!
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Posts: 1,910
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SoCal
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10.03.2007, 10:58 PM
How is the 18T "not doing it for you?"
BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
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RC-Monster Brushless
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Posts: 2,184
Join Date: Nov 2006
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10.03.2007, 11:07 PM
im going to pm you right now about the truck
thanks ALOT for the help! you basically told me everything i needed to know!
so which GH motor do you think woulod be best? i would rather the truck lose some speed but not overheat. so im guessing the 3700 would be better? but for 2s will that be enough?
also you were saying you have to constantly watch the diffs. so i looked into the exploded views and realized it was the same design as the 18t diffs.....thrust balls..... and thats what i was trying to get away from..... are they the same basically or any different?
to answer BPs question
part of it im sure is my fault but it seems EVERY time i take it out the diffs come loose. ive locktighted them 2 times. first time i waited a couple minutes. second time i cleanup up the screw and everything then waited overnight. everything was good untill yesterday and it came loose again. im tired of it.
im going to keep the 18t untill after i see whatsup with the SE. if the SE is not what i want i might try n go back to the 18t but idk.
the 18t has small problems that i do not like dealing with
heating problems (all i need is a new motor)
steering problems (i got the aluminum steering assembly and it didnt help)
differential problems (i got the gpm diffs and it did not help)
i would say that i am not very patient with my cars. once i get it running good, if it doesnt run good for a week or so i get annoyed. ive fixed the 18t over and over and over again and it just doesnt seem to hold up.
Last edited by t-maxxracer32; 10.03.2007 at 11:38 PM.
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Check out my huge box!
Offline
Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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10.03.2007, 11:39 PM
Cures for your 18t
steering, you need this: http://cgi.ebay.com/RC18T-Metal-Serv...QQcmdZViewItem
diffs, go mip and shim them correctly.
bigger motor will help the heating problems.
Mini quake:
Go with the 4700 for your 2s pack, 3600 works better for 3s setup. Either way you will be good, no real need to upgrade to 3s. If possible late you could find a 2500kv motor and run 4s thru the quark 33!!!!
The quake will hold up better than the 18t, you will break the stock knuckles, an upgrade to al, or my tiny screw mod(pics coming) will cure this problem. Other wise just keep the diffs tight, takes about 2mins to do, and you will be ok. I just love the SE models aluminum hopups, they really help the durability of the truck.
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RC-Monster Brushless
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Posts: 2,184
Join Date: Nov 2006
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10.03.2007, 11:56 PM
so what would you say? everyday redo the diffs?
if you locktite them would that prevent from having to tighten them so much?
pm me back and lemme know the pricE!
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Check out my huge box!
Offline
Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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10.04.2007, 12:07 AM
You have a PM.
I do not advise putting loctie on the diffs as it can run onto the thrust bearing and cause problems. Plus you do not want to take apart the diff, tiny ball bearings everywhere. I only say to check the diffs often as it will keep them good for a while. Small diff(any brand) that are run loose with brushless power can wear very quickly. I would say to give it a couple of minutes on the first run and then tighten them up snug(don't break the screws off!) and they will be good for a few more packs before checking, it never hurts to check the diffs. Gear diffs would be better, but the stock quake gear diffs suck. The quake ball diffs are the best 1/18 diffs I have found yet!
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RC-Monster Brushless
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Posts: 2,184
Join Date: Nov 2006
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10.04.2007, 12:12 AM
the ball diffs come with the SE correcT?
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Check out my huge box!
Offline
Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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10.04.2007, 12:17 AM
Yep, and cvd axles, better shocks, better tires, chrome wheels, clear body too. Well worth it for a brushless conversion. The quake rtr needs work to handle brushless, the SE does fine!
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RC-Monster Brushless
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Posts: 2,184
Join Date: Nov 2006
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10.04.2007, 12:32 AM
sweet! thats what i wanna hear!
talk to you later about payments
thanks
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 641
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: lake conroe area, tx
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10.04.2007, 08:24 AM
another motor suggest is the venom 4980kv. i have that on in mine and chose it after alot of reading on one18th. i found out alot of the racers (mostly in vendetta's) were owning the gh powered cars with this motor. mines running on 3cell lipo and completely rocks. my battery is only a 1150mah and i still get 15+min run times just bashing around the house. tower also sells them.
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RC-Monster Brushless
Offline
Posts: 2,184
Join Date: Nov 2006
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10.04.2007, 10:02 AM
well i wont be using any more than 2s lipo... i have a 8 cell pack and 7 cell but there low quality... here are the batts im gonna use
smc 6 cell 1400
thunder power 2s 2200 lipo
8 cell 1200 mah nimh
7 cell 1200 mah nimh
thanks!
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RC-Monster Titanium
Offline
Posts: 1,025
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Prague, Czech Republic
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10.04.2007, 10:04 AM
i had to step down from gh4700 to feigao 3523 is the truck was just too fast for racing on 3s.
this is my setup
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...92&postcount=6
Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*
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