new bashing chassis?

[Procharged5.0]

Glad you're happy with it! I knew you would be!

The UE supershocks are excellent. You'll like those as well. Ofna makes a big bore version (13mm) that would work for you as well. I do not have the specific model # handy at the moment.....main thing is the overall length.

Good luck and enjoy the truck!

......HEY! Wait a minute. Where are the pics clodmaxx? We need pics! LOL!

[ClodMaxx]

Originally Posted by Procharged5.0

......HEY! Wait a minute. Where are the pics clodmaxx? We need pics! LOL!

lol - oh yeah, i knew i was forgetting something...

here's a shot of it partially built


not too shabby... a real testament to how much engineering went into the FLM chassis and UE EXT kit. that's a lot of metal that could add a lot of weight! it's not light, but not too heavy, either. i call it 'husky', lol.


the rest were taken this past sat. morning, before a lot of grass stains and dirt/dust were added. made my countless hours with mother's aluminum polish fly right out the window!

[neweuser]

Pretty nice man! Looking good!

[jnev]

Looks great!! You'll definitely be happy with that combo of parts. And the best part of all, is that your truck is now officially indestructible. :017: :027:

[ClodMaxx]

thanks guys!

it's still evolving. i just bought a set of dace 23mm hubs to run buggy wheels, and my 'to do' list includes UE cvd's, supershocks, and eventually... a new brushless system. my jato is sitting patiently... waiting for it's turn. :005:

RC - you're so right! i landed a 6 foot jump this past sunday the wrong way and my truck cartwheeled about 8 times before landing on it's back. i thought for sure something would be bent, but turns out the only damage done was a ripped gorilla strap (brand new!! :035: ) and snapped 3 of the 4 body posts. luckily those things are cheap to replace in comparison! she can sure take a beating now!

[ClodMaxx]

a few updates:
* ripped another set of gorilla straps. that's it - i'm done with them, and refuse to double up to prevent this. i think i found a winner as a replacement. 2" x 24" strips of heavy-duty velcro with a buckle on one end, much like the buckle of the gorilla straps. i'll wind both ends through the outer most battery vent holes in the FLM chassis - it'll loop all the way around the chassis to hold the batteries. i paid $10 for 12 of them, so i'll have lots of spares. i don't have them yet; i'll post results once i get them.

* thought the 'correct' rear dogbone length for the FLM chassis was 105mm, so i hunted and searched for quite a while for the UE ti ones (they're out of stock). i finally managed to get one, only to find out that is the exact same length as the hardened steel one... so there is still a lot of front to back play. UE makes a 110mm one, which seems about right. and it's in stock. i may try that.

* supershocks: bought them, assembled them, and.... WOW. i had the extra firm springs on the powerstrokes, and i now have the black (heaviest) springs on the rear and the blue (next lightest) in the front. i can't say i notice any handling improvement over the powerstrokes, but they are much more durable with longer travel.

* body posts: still the weakest point on the truck, and it makes sense that they should be as it's the easiest and cheapest thing to replace. but seriously - if my truck ever flips on it's back, they snap like kindling every time. i'm using the rc-raven 'flexible' body posts which don't fit snug inside the UE knucklehead shock post mounts... is there a better answer? i know not to go aluminum. i guess it's the price i have to pay for a relatively heavy (12 lb) truck.

i also snagged a good deal on a Lehner 1940/7 hi-amp motor, and i plan to hold out for the MMM esc, no matter how long it takes. :027:

[neweuser]

Another option of the dog bone, if it's ALMOST the right length is use fule tube and put that in the cups to cut some of the play.

[ClodMaxx]

thanks newe... i may have to try that. i'll have to buy some fuel tube though, as it's just been electric r/c's for me for nearly 10 years...

[GorillaMaxx360]

what size dogbone is that in the front i ordered a 72mm dogbone for my flm chassis and hb diff cups will this work

[Procharged5.0]

Use the stock maxx length for the front. I ordered UE's ti center drive kit and a longer ti dogbone for the rear. I used the UE cups so I can't tell you for certain that they are the same size as the HPI's.

[ClodMaxx]

i too used my existing UE ti centers, w/UE drive cups. i just measured the one that was in the back (exact same length as front) and it's 70mm. but as procharged mentioned, they may work in the HB cups (i have no experience with them).

if it doesn't fit, let me know and i can sell you my extra 70mm ti dogbone.

[Procharged5.0]

That's funny...

With the FLM chassis I now have (1) new in package spare 70mm Ti bone, and (2) new in package steel bones from FLM...truely a "bone yard"!

Did I actually say that.........sorry!

[ClodMaxx]

yep, you did say that... and i laaaaaughed. :005:

are you using a 105mm ti dogbone for the rear? did you do the fuel line trick to control the excess play? i'm kinda bummed about it. it may not matter much, but i just want it to have a slight amount of play like the front has.

[GorillaMaxx360]

2mm should not make a difference i can grind that much off if needed but i am pretty confident that it will work. (my gmaxx arms, trans, and dogbone should be in anyday now order from mike priority male thursday night. I will have pics soon mabey this weekend) Cant wait.

[ClodMaxx]

nice! can't wait to see the pics!