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  (#16)
redhatman
Nitro PWNS > Electric??? Really? Wanna race?
 
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06.11.2007, 02:00 AM

I found this thread very useful. So basically the UBEC requires more modding, less charging.

With the RX pack, do you have to disable or do ANYTHING to the Mamba Max ESC?
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BrianG
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06.11.2007, 02:48 AM

A UBEC requires no charging. It is simply a voltage regulator that converts whatever battery voltage you have to 6v. And since it is switching, it is very efficient.

Any kind of ouotside source of 6v power, whether it is a UBEC or receiver pack, requires you to remove the red wire on the MM (and most other ESCs for that matter).
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  (#18)
jimbob
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06.11.2007, 05:26 AM

just remember you can just pull it out the plug :027:

dont cut it incase you wanna go back or it gets a bit messy
   
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  (#19)
redhatman
Nitro PWNS > Electric??? Really? Wanna race?
 
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06.11.2007, 10:24 AM

Oh, so with either option you need to pull the red wire.
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MetalMan
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06.11.2007, 11:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AAngel
I thought that the 358 was the hi torque and the 359 was the hi speed.
359 = 358 with heatsink. The 357 is high speed (0.07sec, 125oz./in.). I've got a 357 that is going in my MT2, it is a FAST servo!

Brian, the 5645 in my Hyper 8 had its wire ripped off, so I threw the 5955 from my Revo into it (the Revo's MM heatsink came off). It worked out quite well, but that amount of toruqe was way overkill. That's why I bought the Airtronics 359 (200oz./in., 0.10sec). Lots of guys LOVE the 359 around here.


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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BrianG
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06.11.2007, 12:13 PM

@redhatman: Yeah, pull the red wire. The only exception is if the ESC does not even have a BEC or if the ESC has a method to disable it with a jumper or something.

@MM: I'm looking at servos right now for the Hellfire truggy and figure something with good torque would be preferable. I have a Hitec (5945 or something like that) in my Revo right now, but there seems to be some play in the steering. Appears like there is slop in the gears. I'll try replacing the gear set but if that doesn't help, it looks like that will need a new servo as well.

A little off-topic, but related to servos: Since these servos use a simple potentiometer for the feedback, about how long do they last before they lose their accuracy. I'm wondering if the pot is simply worn.
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MetalMan
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06.13.2007, 12:23 AM

Brian, good question. I can't say I've heard of the potentiometers wearing out, but I'm sure it's possible (such as the contacts collecting carbon over time).

If that did happen, I'd guess that most manufacturers would replace/repair the servo for little cost.


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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BrianG
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06.13.2007, 12:39 AM

Yeah, we've all heard the scratchy sound from a worn pot in a radio. I don't know if it's a buildup of anything more than simply wearing a groove in the resistor. Hmm, I wonder when they'll start using optical feedback instead. A little wheel like the Revo's Optidrive sensor wheel, or a PC ball mouse.
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