Big Heavy Aluminum Emaxx Needs Bl Motor Sytem Recomendations - Page 4 - RC-Monster Forums

JCUEVAS · **Check out my traxxas 4-tec -** 08.31.2007, 11:29 PM

My 4-tec has a mm 7700, aluminum and graphite upgrades, light kit and custom widend stance. This is it for show. Its setup different for race.

bigboi146 · 09.01.2007, 01:39 AM

got any underbody pix?

suicideneil · 09.01.2007, 11:24 AM

Thats a 4tec? You'd never be able to tell with that disguise its wearing, looks like something puffdaddy would drive it it was real... (:

JCUEVAS · 10:08 PM

Thankyou! this thing is crazy quick to and handles extreamly well.

jnev · 09.01.2007, 11:11 PM

Looks great. From the outside, with the body on, it looks totally blinged out.

08:27 PM

Question on your diff prob - are you shimming them? Mine don't last without shimming, but I'm only running an 8XL. I'm running GA alum cases and collar with flm diff cups, but shim mine so they start tight. Seems to work.

The weak link in stock trx diff is the spyders and the RRP stuff doesn't seem to be as good as the stock diff parts, so I'm not surprised about your experieince with RRP. I have a Supermaxx (and a DacePredator) and spent time on UE - known prob over there with RRP diff parts for a Tmaxx.

UE diffs are currently available new but pricey. Used can be found but you have to watch ebay and or the UE BST forum to find them. 8 Spyders are real hard to find used here lately. That is if you need cases and all. If you don't need cases, the 1/8th diffs (6 or 8 spyder) are in stock at UE and aren't geared as high as HB diffs if that makes any difference. There are a few UE lightning based guys on UE and they would tell you only solution to your prob is 8 spyder UE diffs - I know, they've been telling me same thing!

Did the 4-Tec start out as the elec version? Nice work, looks trick!!

I raced a 4-Tec pro for a while and have a 2.5rtr. I want to put a TZ in when I find a big place to run in. I see I am back to 1st post again, was posting in temp forum when I got started here....

JCUEVAS · 09.04.2007, 08:16 PM

It was a totaly stock electric 4-tec with a mechanical speed control. i shimmed it but honestly don't know if i did it right. The shims go on the inside of the diff cups before the two output shafts right? How should the diff feel? Easy to turn by hand? Should there be a little bit of resisdence before they wear in or smooth from the gecko? What type of lube should i use also? I used a thin layer of the black rr grease. I've seen different types of diif lube. What do you recomend? I really don't want to spend allot on new diffs. Thankyou for your help.

JCUEVAS · 09.04.2007, 08:40 PM

Should i just throw a spool in the rear and let this thing go?

09.04.2007, 09:42 PM

This is a good start -

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...+Diff+Shim+mod

I use A&E Black grease or 1:1 wheel brg grease, thicker the better, helps diff action. As far as shimiming goes, the last set I built I tried the above, but found the teflon washers (.020" thk) caused the diff assembly to bind, so I didn't use the extras, only the stock one thats called for. He demo'ed the mod using a stock plastic diff cup cup and I used a flm alum cup (which came with shims). I had no endplay with my assembled diff.

Mine needed shims though to make diff assembly fit in diff cases right and provide proper R&P mesh. It takes a while and you need to understand what adding shims on one side or the other does - you are basically moving ring gear back and forth in the diff case, setting depth of engagement of pinion. I get the side to side end play of the diff pretty much shimmed out and then look at how thick all shims total up to.

I start with them split between right and left cases (1/2 of thickness on each side and trial fit the pinion. Don't get impatient and dont put grease in until you're absolutely finished. This may take 20min and more than an hour. I get mine until they are slightly tight or snug feeling and there is usually at least a rought spot or two. This disappears when the spyders run in against each other and has always disappeared by the end of breakin. The GA cases only needed shim under ring gear side, but it was def needed. I built a set using gpm cases and they needed shims on both sides and more than one. When you are testing the fit, tighten everything up just like you would on final assembly and see how it feels. Since you've set the endplay in teh diff, you're only paying attention to how it feels to turn the pinion and what endplay there is to the pinion.

One way to learn is to add enough shims to lock everything together in the diff cases and then take shims out one at a time until you're nearly there - now it really matters how many you have on one side or the other. Once you've got this part right, shimming the pinion goes pretty quickly(sets how far in or out the pinion goes on ring gear). You'll be much faster with second diff than your first. Its sounds complicated, but its not that bad once you understand what you're trying to do. The pics from the link should help.

I've never fooled with a spool, so can't help there.

suicideneil · 09.05.2007, 02:16 PM

I'll tell you what I know about spool gears- they are very bad if you plan to run at anything other than a crawl, and on road. Various people report continually busting cvds and slider shafts since there is no differential anymore, and you still need to shim the ring & pinion correctly or else the two gears will not mesh perfectly and grind eachother down.

JCUEVAS · 09.05.2007, 07:59 PM

Its mainly built for street use. its been lowered and i have the rc trix sway bar kit to hold it to thee road. Do you think the stock screws on the spool will hold up? I have 2mm steel screws.

suicideneil · 09.06.2007, 05:32 PM

Since the spool is all metal i would say just use some threadlock on them and they should be okay, but like I said i'd be more worried about your cvds busting. When you turn the outside wheel wants to turn faster than the insdie one since it has to travel further, but with no diff the inside wheel will slip & skid on the tarmac, which is wheel the trouble starts if you have grippy tires. Try it and see, but if that does happen, just go back to a rear diff setup with alloy cup and 3mm screws.

JCUEVAS · 09.06.2007, 08:48 PM

Guess what guys? I haven/t been putting the right lube or the right amount in the diff. i bought some 100k lube. Im gonna try the spool first. Im gonna see how it is then maybe rebuild the diff.

JCUEVAS · 05.04.2008, 09:17 AM

Ok Guys I Started Playing With My Emaxx Again After I Bought The Rustler Vxl And Did Everything I Could To It. My Maxx Now Has The 4.5 Novak With 5mm Shaft, 40 Series 23mm Wheels And Masher Tires, Spool In The Rear, Lipo Cut Off, And Two Venom 5000 Lipo Packs. The Truck Is Geared At 72/14. The Truck Is Powerful! Problem Is I Have Very Poor Range, Truck Glitches Like Crazy And My Esc Blinks That I Have A Locked Rotor. I Just Receive It Back From Novak And They Said It Was My Lipo Cutoff. The Wires Were To Long. The Motor Doesnt Get That Hot. I Can Hold It In My Hand Practically. I Havent Even Ran Down The Lipos Once Yet Without A Problem From The System Occuring. Im Gonna Have To Send The Esc Back Again Because Its Doing The Same Exact Thing All Over Again. What Am I Doing Wrong. Should I Sell It Before It Goes Bad And Get The Momba Monster? Whats The Best Setup For This Truck On These Two Packs?

GorillaMaxx360 · 05.04.2008, 10:44 AM

yes running it in 4wd will take a lot of strain of those rear diffs. Many guys i know dont have any problems with the hv maxx destroying the diffs becuase it does not have enough torque. if you drive in in 4wd you will take less strain of the diffs and you might not have to replace the diffs.