**My FLM CCNeu Maxx Nearly Completed**

[Chadworkz]

I like the digital Dremel...not the RPM read-out, but the digital sensor that gives it the ability to maintain the set RPM under load, but I wish it didn't have the weird turn-down grip on the end. If the 400 series was digital, it would be perfect!

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by florianz

what about making it a "project x"-Dremel by adding some more volts?

I did that with my old cordless screwdriver... with my girls's cordless vacuum cleaner (adding more and better nimh's) and with my acoms hayabusa by replacing batts with a crappy 3s-lipo (-->see project x).
more volts - more fun

flo

Not a bad idea! I've actually thought about that some... I would worry about bearings and the motor over heating.

Originally Posted by BL_RV0

It was on.... I think my charger may have been bad possibly, there's no way dremel would market a product that you can stop with your finger.

Definently a bad charger. That is a shame. Plug that battery into your hobby charger with aligator clips and "let her rip".

Still that is a bad sign that you got a bad charger.

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

I like the digital Dremel...not the RPM read-out, but the digital sensor that gives it the ability to maintain the set RPM under load, but I wish it didn't have the weird turn-down grip on the end. If the 400 series was digital, it would be perfect!

Yeah! When my uncle comes from georgia for the holidays and vacations he always brings his digital dremel! I really like how you can add 1000rpms with a button. Up to like 40000rpm. I may get this one.

Guys I fixed the tranny! All it took was cutting down the raised place on the 2nd speed input gear! No robots required! Sorry Chad I knew what you meant.

[BL_RV0]

I ended up trading the dremel for something, and I'm not sure what became of it after.

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

Guys I fixed the tranny! All it took was cutting down the raised place on the 2nd speed input gear! No robots required! Sorry Chad I knew what you meant.

Good deal, man...glad you got everything working smoothly. Can you take pics of what you did? I will be needing to do this very soon, so I would like to see exactly where/what I need to do...thanks in advance!

[mkrusedc]

Zack,

Glad things worked out.

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

Good deal, man...glad you got everything working smoothly. Can you take pics of what you did? I will be needing to do this very soon, so I would like to see exactly where/what I need to do...thanks in advance!

Okay so check it: After further investigation I found it was still far too binding.


Can you see right where the camera is focusing? At the end of the idler gear shaft carrier their is a ring that sticks out to catch the inner part of the ilder gear bearing, yeah well that must be cut down some... just go by feel I suppose but the amount I grinded down here was perfect.


Here is the part I mentioned earlier. You see the left side of the gear? The side facing the threads? It is a raised section that is made to ride the bearing rings just like mentioned just above. It must be ground down. Don't go by the amount I ground because I cut too much off giving a little play back and forth. Just go by feel.

Thats it! Smooth as butter. Still this tranny has soo many problems. Like the screw holes are all way to shallow. Its really a shame. Its like they never actually installed this thing.

I hope this helps!

-Zack

[Chadworkz]

Wow, is the Gorilla part bad, or just the FLM half-case? Or are they both crap and need work to work properly?

[Kcaz25]

Its FLM

[suicideneil]

Trouble with the FLM half case is its designed to only be used with the other half of the case, in which case the supplied screws fit perfectly, and the bearing recces' are the correct depth for each half to work together- when you use the gorillamaxx part with the half case, the screw holes are too shallow, so you need shorter screws to prevent them from bottoming out ( when the two halfs of the case go together it doesnt require really long screws to hold them together, just a few threads is fine for a positive connection, hence the shallow holes).

Seems like a half case option to be used with the gorillamaxx parts was an afterthought, made without making any alterations to the design ( I would have allowed more room for bearing play to be adjusted with shims, and deepers holes to screw the gorillamaxx cover in place; hindsight is 20/20 however....).

[Kcaz25]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Trouble with the FLM half case is its designed to only be used with the other half of the case, in which case the supplied screws fit perfectly, and the bearing recces' are the correct depth for each half to work together- when you use the gorillamaxx part with the half case, the screw holes are too shallow, so you need shorter screws to prevent them from bottoming out ( when the two halfs of the case go together it doesnt require really long screws to hold them together, just a few threads is fine for a positive connection, hence the shallow holes).

Seems like a half case option to be used with the gorillamaxx parts was an afterthought, made without making any alterations to the design ( I would have allowed more room for bearing play to be adjusted with shims, and deepers holes to screw the gorillamaxx cover in place; hindsight is 20/20 however....).

I can believe the screw issue, but i have heard the fit is just as bad with both halves. And the gmaxx half does work with the stock half.

And yeah I use shorter screws but the motor mount screws holes are short as well which bothers me. Oh well I don't have a tap set. FLM has brilliant moments in every area and some a bit less than brillant in some areas aswell.

[suicideneil]

Well, that sucks, and at the last comment.

[Kcaz25]

I've been beating the heck out of the truck everything is still great! Definently the most consecutive runs without problems! I've moved to north alabama in a city called Sylacauga with a small RC comunity, a huge BMX track!, and a real rc track with lap counter, drivers stand, air conditioned single wide trailor that has but sadly been shut down for one or two seasons... likely because of the economy.

[mkrusedc]

Hey Zack good to hear from you. Glad things are well. I am in Gulf Shores, today. Just spent a killer day at the beach with the family.


Trucks are at home. My dive cups came in the day I was leaving. I will finish my build when I gat home. take care.

mark

[Kcaz25]

Thanks Mark. Too bad we didn't get to bash, oh well there is next summer and I am down there alot still. Dude you have to visit Foley Raceway, They race RC Tonight!! And its just 15mins from ya in Gulf Shores! I went to watch two weekends ago and it was sweet!

Yeah I didn't have time to finish my post... I wanted to ask everybody opinion on how to the local track back "on-line". It really needs a grass cutting and some weed eating but how would I go about helping stir interest?

Also I loaded my 4 UE Super Shocks with 80wt fluid blue springs in front and black in rear and still its bottoming out after any 10inch drop!! I hate that! Would it help to use 4 of my TRX Big bores as bypass shocks or as 4 regular shocks in addition to my Supers?

Any help in either of these areas is much appreciated.
-Zack

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

Also I loaded my 4 UE Super Shocks with 80wt fluid blue springs in front and black in rear and still its bottoming out after any 10inch drop!! I hate that! Would it help to use 4 of my TRX Big bores as bypass shocks or as 4 regular shocks in addition to my Supers?

My 2 cents;
A couple years ago I built a complete American CNC Machine EMaxx I tried just 4 Ofna shocks but had to have 8 shocks to keep it from bottoming out, It was 16.5lbs.
I also think if you install 4 more shocks regardless what brand you'll find the 80wt being to much. I settled for 50wt all the way around with extra firm springs,don't remember what lb rating the springs were ?