Looking for a buggy project

[neweuser]

No, i used it in the other maxx I am currently selling until it finally burned out. hence the maxx I am selling has a brand new 9xl. I looked for a rotor for it for months and never really found one. But, good thing i never did, the windings ere piss poor in it.

[BrianG]

Well, even though the rotor is weak, it still makes a really nice refrigerator magnet!

[BrianG]

Anyone happen to have a spare (preferably new) Hyper 8 chassis they wouldn't mind parting with? Was at the track this weekend playing and the middle of the buggy landed on the end of a square 4x4 and bent it cleanly in half. I could probably bend it back, but it won't be perfect so I'm looking for a new one.

Ebay has some for ~$50, but I figured I'd check here first...

[tc3_racer_001]

BrianG - take this opportunity to upgrade to the FR2 chassis. ive seen a few go new here (where everything almost always costs more) for 35 bucks without any bids... thats the reason why they added the support which screwed me around when i was trying to get mine sorted! i find it hard to believe that you could bend these things enough to be able to see it!

[BrianG]

The FR2 chassis? Got any links to the $35 ones?

Bad driver + long jumps + lumber wall = damaged chassis.

I was at the track showing off to one of the hobby shop workers. He couldn't believe the amount of distance I was getting without much of a head start before the jump (~20-25ft with ~6-8ft of running before the jump). So, I backed up as far as the track would allow and then took off. Started in looser dirt so I couldn't mash the throttle, but when I got into the hard pack, I mashed the throttle. However, I wasn't quite lined up and flew off the jump crooked enough to land off the track. The middle of the buggy landed right on the edge of a lumber wall. It stopped working so my bro went to pick it up and was looking it over and didn't see anything that would cause it to not work. I went over and said that maybe the fact that one of the batteries was lying about 10 feet away had something to do with that! noobs!

Seriously, I think we may have another convert. He saw some nitros back home (Maine) but had no idea how fast and snappy BL could be. I wouldn't be surprised to see him on here in the near future.

[tc3_racer_001]

that price was from a local ebay chopshop seller. but heres the link. u will also want the longer aluminium (about 1/4 of the weight of the original shafts) dogbones and servo brace. anyway heres a link to one... damn its not cheap though!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/8133

[BrianG]

Just an update to say I got a Hyper 8.5 chassis that's 2mm longer in the front and rear, so yeah, I need new dogbones. I found something in my parts bin that fits for the rear, but rather get a whole set. I never really liked the slop in the original set (moved forwards and back too much), so I'd rather get a custom set made.

Below are the EXACT measurements of what I need:



I know I can ask Mike, but there was also another place that made custom bones as well, but can't remember where...

On a related note, I took the opportunity to use some other spare parts to fix her up a bit. A mugen wing and body do fit with a little modification. The body looks funny thought because I don't plan to paint it. What's the sense in painting something that lasts only a few runs?

[lutach]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Just an update to say I got a Hyper 8.5 chassis that's 2mm longer in the front and rear, so yeah, I need new dogbones. I found something in my parts bin that fits for the rear, but rather get a whole set. I never really liked the slop in the original set (moved forwards and back too much), so I'd rather get a custom set made.

Below are the EXACT measurements of what I need:



I know I can ask Mike, but there was also another place that made custom bones as well, but can't remember where...

On a related note, I took the opportunity to use some other spare parts to fix her up a bit. A mugen wing and body do fit with a little modification. The body looks funny thought because I don't plan to paint it. What's the sense in painting something that lasts only a few runs?

PM sent.

[BrianG]

Well, I ordered some new bones to the specs in my picture above from RCAlloys.com. I was gonna order from Mike, but I wanted to see what other stuff there is out there.

Anyway, the new bones look just like the picture, and are quite heavy. They are well machined and measure EXACTLY like I specified, but I think I like Mike's better. Mike's don't have the super thick middle like RCAlloys do (which saves weight) but are just as nice and exact.

I got the buggy all back together just to find out I had a bad bearing. Figures! So, while I had the CD out yet again, I put in some 100k oil in there instead. I know on-power steering is gonna suffer, but I think it suits my drive (or should I say crash) style better. Maybe I'm just used to how my old Revo handled. Anyway, I took it outside for a few minutes and DEFINITELY like the stiffer CD! Take-offs are MUCH more aggressive and hardly any front tire ballooning. Understandably, on-power steering is crappy, but that's just a matter of mashing the throttle and sliding around corners!

[tc3_racer_001]

ive got a set of axles which attach at one end and are a dongbone (cvs?) which goes into teh cetre diff. theres a huge difference these make cause now i can do wheelies and before i couldnt... same everything else without recharging te battery pack... anyway sounds like your sorted!

have fun!

[BrianG]

Bringing up this old thread to mention the new Turnigy battery I got.

Up until today, I was using a Maxamps 5Ah 20C 4s pack. At the end of the run, the pack would be very hot and puffing. The puff went down after a few hours of cooling, but definitely not good.

Today, I got a Turnigy 30C/40C 5Ah 4s pack, and WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The buggy acceleration is MUCH more aggressive, and the pack is barely warm after the run. I want to get an "official" Eagletree reading of this pack, but I am quite impressed with the first impressions. But TBH, I think 8GA wires are a bit much for most setups.

BTW, this isn't a MA bashing post, because I know it is not an apples to apples comparison; The MA pack is ~2 years old, and only rated 20C.

[bdebde]

Whoa, a 2 year old MA pack! OK I keep quiet now

[glassdoctor]

I have several old MA packs still kicking.... some a lot older than BG's, such as a pair of old 6000mah packs from when I converted a Kyosho buggy 4 or 5 years ago. Those packs are still being used... gave them to my cousin to run in his Fusion 1/8 buggy. At worst, they get a little soft feeling when dumped. FYI

Those Turnigy packs do have good punch... another local racer has one and it feels faster than his other packs. (not MA btw)

[BrianG]

Did a little more running this afternoon using the new battery. Ran until the Quark cutoff (3.0/cell), which worried me a little. Usually, when the LVC kicks in, I can stop for a sec or two, and then run it back to me (I'm lazy). Not this time. I thought I popped my ESC. Turns out everything was fine, just the battery was done. Didn't notice much loss of power before the LVC point.

And since the LVC was at 3.0v/cell, the Turnigy pack was a bit warmer than I would like (didn't get a measurement, but I would estimate ~115*F-120*F), but not nearly as hot as the MA pack I was using.

Took an Eagletree graph and got repeated spikes near 150A. Average current draw was ~12A. Max burst was 168A. Some burst sample points (and all were taken at least 1/3 into the run):

3.4v/cell @ 168A (33.6C)
3.67v/cell @ 150A (30C)
3.78v/cell @ 100A (20C)

Not too shabby. Cell resistance calculates to somewhere between 0.001 and 0.003 ohms per cell (higher as current increased, and the further into the run I went).

[emaxxnitro]

yeah i have some Turnigys they are great cells