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Experience Pls. To Create a Custom arm for a savage using truggy hubs
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Jahay
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Experience Pls. To Create a Custom arm for a savage using truggy hubs - 10.12.2010, 06:14 AM

I would like to try and adapt an existing steering assembly most likely from a truggy onto the savage... i know it has been done in the past by a few people, but i do not like using, most likely weaker truggy lower arms on a savage. I was going to get something made up in another material...

The main areas i am looking at are the lower A arm length, width, strength ( although it wont be fitted directly to a savage, i dont care if the lower arms are not similar to the savage at all. As whole new arms would have to be made up. One end with the savage setup and the upright end of a truggy style... If you follow me...

Need to look closely at the truggy Alloy Hubs and Uprights and the manner they connect to the lower Arms. (maximum throw, strength, do they utilise the same 18x16x5? so they can accept the flux SHD Axle? It does not matter if the sock axle is too short or too long... i would think about getting a custom one made up if really necessary... or just use an XL SHD Axle and shim till it fits snuggly.

i would use the stock steering assembly...
i am not worried about upper arms as the stock savage ones would most likely work with any uprights as they are all pretty universal...


so why am i looking to do this?


...Because after looking and comparing the kuckle and uprights from a truggy and the savage i have noticed that, the entire steering assembly on say a Hyper St Pro, works so smoothly, with seeming-less strength and accuracy built into it offering more steering throw than a savage that even has the suspension conversion kit installed!

If a decent truggy setup could be applied and be specific for the savage (only a custom a arm would have to be made utilising the stock mounting style and position) then having a better hub design may benefit the savage and its steering...

So i need your ideas and experience as to what you believe is the best a arm and hub setup making sure that they accept the SHD Axle and offer maximum steering throw with a smooth movement...

I was very impressed with the hyper st pro, but i havent seen to many truggy setups... so please help me out.


Some pics of the hyper st...








THANKS
and your comments, criticism and experience is welcomed!

Josh
   
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Arct1k
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10.12.2010, 09:04 AM

Ryan aka finster was working on the same
   
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Jahay
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10.12.2010, 09:58 AM

I'm sure... Do we know if anything materialised. I know people have adapted truggy arms but I wasn't to have something made up which is a savage arm on one end and a truggy hub on the other. I want to have a stock length so the shd stock shafts work. The truggy hub must accept savage bearings and shd axle...
   
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thzero
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10.12.2010, 10:25 AM

Um, thats asking a lot. Most truggies have a CVD joint at the hub, and not just the simple dogbone/cup arrangement of the Savage. Your best bet (as long as you are running 17mm wheels) is to just use the hub/axle arrangement from a truggy. I doubt you'll find any that use the same size as the Savage bearings, but who knows. If you want to use the Savage axle, you might be able to but you'd need to find some bearings with the appropriate ID/OD.

I believe it was Jammin X2 rear truggy(http://www.bigsquidrc.com/forum/view...php?f=5&t=1542) arms were used. Probably need to switch the diffs back to the smaller cups to use the truggy drive shafts.

Don't really know that the truggy arms are any weaker than the Savage arms; however they are probably made of a stiffer material than the material used in a Savage so are more likely to break than the Savage which will probably bend more. That being said I've not broken a suspension arm on my RC8Te bashing yet (nor on my various Savages either); then again I'm not doing 20'+ jumps either so mileage may vary.

Personally I wish FLM would make these in an plastic based material.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahay View Post
I'm sure... Do we know if anything materialised. I know people have adapted truggy arms but I wasn't to have something made up which is a savage arm on one end and a truggy hub on the other. I want to have a stock length so the shd stock shafts work. The truggy hub must accept savage bearings and shd axle...
   
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Finnster
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10.12.2010, 11:42 AM

I've ordered the mbx6t arms, but they are coming from HK, and have not arrived. I went that way in order to keep my 4WS.

Otherwise the X2 arm conversion looks really good. The other big benefit to using a truggy arm/hub is that you can have a lot of caster which will aid steering.

Personally I have found my HST arms to be much stronger than the my savage's, even tho I've had the truggy longer and have driven it much more recklessly (and Arct1k has seen me drive it at the RCM bashes, so he would agree I did my best to break it lol.)
I've torn out the front part of the Sav arm many times on a front collision. If you see the thin F part of the arm, the front split where the arm brace goes thru, that always gets bend back and tears out. The back part, behind the brace, tears partially but is screwed enough I have to replace the arm.

The truggy et al arms I've seen are thicker and all behind a brace, with the bonus of captured pins.



I don't like the dogbone/cup setup either. My cup is badly worn and sloppy. I'm not so sure that HPI uses thicker parts to make up for weaker materials. Trugs are made to be race tough, altho the newer trugs cut down on "extra" material so much to reduce weight IDK how they will hold up in a bigger truck.

Anyway, I think you are asking alot in one arm to be able to use trug str end, and be able to keep savage axles. I'm pretty sure the Sav knuckle bearings are 16*8*5. Perhaps if you looked at parts diagrams and see which trugs use tho bearings, you could find something close. The X2 does use two sets in ea knuckle, so at the worst you may be able to use XL ext hubs to go all the way thru the knuckle, and shim behind the wheel hex. IDK the width of the chub, but the savage arm end seems large, so I imagine you might be able to fit in there w/ shims.

Those chubs have about 20*+ of caster, so the top arms would have to come back to match up well also. Father forward you can move the chubs, the better as the sav top arm is already in a "rear biased" position in the bulkhead
   
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Jahay
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10.12.2010, 06:59 PM

thanks for both your inputs... im looking at Badasz_Savage X2 setup on his savage... (thanks for the link zero) and cheers for the pic finn

I think i understand what is needing to be done... BUT, i have one problem that worrys me...

I will be running 9s very soon... I dont believe that the X2 CVDs would be able to handle the 9s power? what do you think?

Here is what BA did to get it to work



Thanks
   
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