14.2 second 1/3 mile? (oval)

bp, i think the 9l is a low enough turn. i don't want to run a 10s lipo pack, but at the same time, i don't know if a lower turn motor would have enough torque.. I think a 9L geared right will be just fine.. if it's not.. lower turn, is always a possibility. I'm going w/ what i have right now, as I don't have an unlimited bank to buy multiple motors, ect.

dafni, I'm thinking about it.. seriously..

jt, the reason for 4wd is stability. I've run rwd above 50mph before, and it was alot more nerve racking than a 4wd at the same speeds. I've got a XS3, so exponential steering throttle, ect is possible, and will be used. I've also got a few ideas as far as aero goes.. a full left side wall is what i'm planning at the moment.. similar to to sprints, but I've seen it work wonderfully on 1:1 cars.. when this project gets further under way, I'll explain it better.

jhautz, video is obvious :)

mike, I'm familiar w/ a nitro 4tech, but what's the 3.3?

[squeeforever]

It's got the new TRX 3.3 engine. 70+ stock I believe. With a pipe, port/polishing, modified crank, ect. It could possible break 85.

RC-Monster Forums > Support Forums > General Electric

lol.. I've never run nitro in my life, and i don't think i want to start by trying 90mph... btw, your not by any chance the same person as "pedeforever" from maxxtraxx are you?

[Mike.L]

Originally Posted by A4DTM

RC-Monster Forums > Support Forums > General Electric

lol.. I've never run nitro in my life, and i don't think i want to start by trying 90mph... btw, your not by any chance the same person as "pedeforever" from maxxtraxx are you?

then how are you going to handle brushlesss man:026: bl is wayy crazyer

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by A4DTM

RC-Monster Forums > Support Forums > General Electric

lol.. I've never run nitro in my life, and i don't think i want to start by trying 90mph... btw, your not by any chance the same person as "pedeforever" from maxxtraxx are you?

Nope, not me. I'm squeeforever there to :p. Yea, if you were to attempt this, I think nitro might be easier.

it's not that i can't drive a nitro car.. i've driven friends' ntc3, rc10gt, tmaxx, and xxx-nts' before.. it's the fact i know next to NOTHING about nitro, and don't plan on ever running nitro.. I've got a few years of brushless experience, and like experimenting w/ bl power more than learning nitro from scratch.

[squeeforever]

Yea. Only thing is cost with the brushless...

[captain harlock]

In the long run its way cheaper than nitro.

A4DTM, 1/8 scale on road machines are your ultimate choice.
Either Mugen MRX-4, the Serpent or the Evolva2005( best of the three) would fly over 100mph using nitro .21-.28 engines. With a Lehner 1940/6-7 motor and 6-8 lipos the car will cry.

ok, I got most of my stuff up for sale, but it needs to go fast, because I found out Saturday that October 1st is the last day an attempt can be made.. there's no for sale forum here, but pm me if anyones interested in:

Academy SB Sport V2

Two Reedy Quasar Pro Chargers

Two Reedy Pulse R Modifieds (10t and 11t)

Novak EVX

Traxxas Sledgehammer(?)
Tamiya Grasshopper
Kyosho or Traxxas 2wd truck or buggy (the Traxxas Ruslter's steering bellcranks fit it, but I was told Traxxas and Kyosho had VERY similar parts, so it could be either brand.)

Ofna Hyper7pro Needs few parts to become a roller. ie. front universal, servo tray, diff cases, any nitro specific parts)

Bolink 1/8 scale Corvette Stingray body


as far as vehicle, I've decided to go with an XR8. http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...9&page=1&pp=30
rc union has them for $288. http://www.rc-union.com/product_info...oducts_id=6087

what batteries would you guys recomend for around 20 volts? I'm guessing I'll need around at least 60amps continuous? motor's a 9L. The batts need to be compatible with Astroflight 109d's, and I also don't know much about balancing.. someone direct me towards a proven setup. thanks.

PM me for prices.

[MetalMan]

You kinda have to choose between 5s Lipo and 6s. That's 18.5v vs. 22.2v. 5s Lipo would be easier to do since there are more (cheaper) 5s balancers out there. Here's a balancer I just ordered last night:
http://home.comcast.net/~truerc/Charge/chargers.htm (Smart Balancer and Guard 505). At $30 that can do 5s Lipo with a 300ma drain rate, it's a steal. However, you can only charge at up to 3amps when the balancer is connected to the charger, so charging at a higher rate will need to be done with the charger hooked up to the battery, and the balancer hooked up to the taps on the battery.

True RC has some batteries that would be possible choices (and they're really inexpensive). Look here:
http://home.comcast.net/~truerc/custompack.htm
The last battery on the page would work well for you. The weight of that battery is about 200grams less than 16 NiMh cells. Although it says that the batteries aren't in stock, they have the cells, so you might just need to email them about making the 5s 8000mah pack.

make sure to get alot of downforce on that car or at that speed the car will fly i recamend a pancar body with a wing fited on the front so it wont flip and reduce the rotating mass as much as posible to keep your hopes up here is a vid http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/video.asp it is at the bottom of the page don't make his mistake and not have enough downforce in the front and gut that thing down take off anything u don't need like the bumper and roll bar upgrade the bearings put on lipos to save more wait and bring extra parts incase it crashes

hopefully it'll be here by saturday/monday at the latest.

[cart213]

Originally Posted by A4DTM

the MT2 project is still sitting here.. Andrew at CFR cut me out some test pieces to make sure the critical measurements were on.. they weren't, but only the rear diff didn't line up w/ the center brace. I designed a very small simple part to connect the two, and the design is now finished. the reason it's still sitting, is $. I got quoted ~$300, which isn't bad, but enough for me hold off on that project right now. in the meantime, I had bought a Academy SB Sport V2 4wd buggy to race with. I put the 380c-6l and 8 cells in it, and didn't even get through practice before both front and rear diffs were gone. It's now going to be sold. I went ahead and bought one of Andrew's $25 motor mounts, so I can run the MT2 at least with the stock chassis in the meantime, but have to find all the random parts for it that became scattered around my room during the design phaze :P

I've been wondering what happened to that MT2 project! The design was awesome! Shame on you for not updating the threads to tell us that you put it on hold. :019: j/k It's a shame that truck never got built. It would have been sweet.

well time for the bad news... i talked w/ the track owner saturday night, and he said that the driver must be in the car.. so that ruins that plan.. the cars in transit to me, and I'm still gonna convert it, and we'll see when it's done if he'll let me run it on the track on a day it's closed or something, just for kicks.

i talked w/ the track owner saturday night, and he said that the driver must be in the car.. so that ruins that plan.. the cars in transit to me, and I'm still gonna convert it, and we'll see when it's done if he'll let me run it on the track on a day it's closed or something, just for kicks.

but now two dilemas. 1, where/how to mount batteries. and 2, what do you guys think about the mechanical brake?





there's not much space between where the motor would sit, and the mid belt pulley. about 4" max. I'd have to stack the cells or make one big "brick"..
I'm was planning on the TrueRC 18.5V 5S2P 8000mAh packs that but they're mm suggested, but they're 5.7" in length.
what are your guys ideas to re-arange the chassis to hold the pack.. or other battery options? I think it would be possible to move the motor above the spur shaft, but I'm not sure if a body would even fit then.. and i'd rather have a REAL low cg.

the second problem, the motor hits the mechanical brake. I was hoping to keep the mechanical brake to keep stress off the controller. I'm not sure how the dia of the 540c compares to other motors in this range, and may want to try a different motor in the future.. pletty big maxx, or lehner 19xx's? larger or smaller in dia?
i havn't tried to figure it out yet, but w/ my 14t, there's quite a big gap. it looks like 17/18t would be needed to touch the spur gear. I'm not sure if that'll be to high of a gear ratio.

i'll start planning/designing tommorow night. thanks for any suggestion.