Quark fried, blown capacitor...

[zeropointbug]

That looks pretty good Suicideniel.

Please don't tell me that is your antenna wire running along in that pic?! :eek:

[suicideneil]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

That looks pretty good Suicideniel.

Please don't tell me that is your antenna wire running along in that pic?! :eek:

Cheers. One of those wires is the antenna, but believe it or not there is no glitching or anything, since the radio was ment for a plane the aerial wire is about 2 foot long- had to bundle it up abit (wouldnt dream of cutting it down). I just want some good weather to take it out and do a proper test run....:007:

[zeropointbug]

rainy UK... :024:

Well, I had the caps on it, but was having thermal troubles. I took the cap bank off to do the cooling mod and was running it after having done the mod, without the cap bank. I didn't think it would make a difference taking it easy. I just didn't want to have to go soldering on the power leads again and wanted to make sure that all was well before I soldered the bank back on.

Anyway...check out my pleasantly plumped caps...





OK, so am I to understand that replacing the caps won't fix this thing? Is S&T going to fix your esc even though the cooling mod had been performed? If they are willing to take it back AGAIN, I'll just reassemble it and wait for a return email.

Oh, I don't smell anything burnt. Maybe it is just the caps. I'm just itching to get this thing up and running.

[zeropointbug]

Actually, I doesn't look like they 'blew', there is no electrolyte anywhere, is there?

If not, then it might be okay.

If you are able to get the heat spreader off of that, would you be interested in the custom case I had designed? It should never ever thermal with it, or at least that what it looks like. :027:

BTW, what epoxy did you use? Is that your homemade stuff?

jhautz, too late. I already replaced the caps. I did a preliminary install on the esc and the zip appears to be back. When I hit the throttle, it winds right up and balloons the tires.

The caps that we got, however, are taller than the stock caps. It will just barely fit into the case. I decided to do a couple of "upgrades" anyway. I'm going to wire it all up and take it out to the track to see what happens.

Some pics...





I added the 5.5mm connectors because it will give me a good base for the additon of the cap bank and I like the idea of being able to replace the battery leads without having to tear everything apart to get to them.

I am, however, a bit concerned about the weight of those connectors on the pcb. Being banged around in the track may prove to be too much for the pcb to stand. I'm going to try to reinforce them somehow. If I can't come up with a satisfactory way to do that, the connectors are going to have to come off.

I also have to say that replacing the caps was a snap. It literally took me a couple of minutes, after I had the esc apart.

ZPB, I used arctic alumina. No homemade stuff for this application.

I did save all of the stock parts. That way, if all is not well, I can just put it back to the way it was and send it back.

[suicideneil]

Dude, cool. What were the specs o the original caps again vs the new ones?
As far as supporting the gold connectors goes- if the pcb is braced nice and firm inside the esc case, then all that needs doing is bracing the battery wires close to the esc case too = zero flex near the esc will mean no stress on the pcb. I would ziptie down the wires to part of the chassis or a custom little 'mount' just along from the esc, and make sure the esc is mounted solidly too, then you will have no problems what so ever. The main thing is to prevent the pcb from shifting in the case, and stopping the wires from flexing near to the esc- a 'no movement zone' if you like....

[zeropointbug]

http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/s...ini/pict_f.htm

Those are the caps Suicideneil. PM series is the same as PL series.

DANG AAngel! You have confirmed to me that I think I will do the 5.5mm mod to mine when I get my custom case made... when I get my Quark back....IF I know that two of those caps will do the job.

Do you think you could do a test of running without the case on it? To see how hot the caps get, and the top set of FET's? thanks

Looks great! I don't think the connectors are going to stress anything, although it wouldn't hurt putting something in between the connectors in case they get hit, to prevent it from bending.

OK, I test ran it and all seems ok. I, at this point, believe the the only problem was the caps. I left the esc out of the case and wrapped it in shrink wrap and epoxied the aluminum slab directly to a piece of 1/4" aluminum which is mounted to my chassis.

For some reason, I'm not liking it. The Quark PCB seems very weak with lots of flexing. I'm going to see if I can machine a delrin support for the connectors and pcb. If I can, I may just run it without the case to keep things cooler. I have to say at this point, that the Quarks do generate some heat.

A couple of pics...





Any constructive critism? I think I've gone overboard with this rather expensive of equipment.

Oh, perhaps I could just cut the stock case to make everything fit, but that would surely void any warranty that may still apply. As it stands now, I could still go back to stock, but if I cut the case, there won't be any going back.

[suicideneil]

I would make a longer mount so that the whole pcb & connectors are supported/protected. Still mount it too a thick piece of alloy though for better cooling, just incorporate that into mount. I wouldnt mess with the case though just incase it does need repair at some point. What about a piece of alloy box section abit bigger than the case is, and mount the pcb inside that (with a window cut into it for programing ). It would protect the whole pcb and provide a massive surface area for cooling.

OK, I just ran the Quark with a total of four caps. I ran it for 5 minutes as though I was trying to break it. 50' sprints back and forth with the 9XL geared 13/46 with a maxamps 4S 8Ah pack.

The sink temped at 135, the center heat spreader was at 145, and the caps were at 150. The lead connectors were also at 150. I'm wondering if the power leads are heating up the capacitors or vise versa. I think that more caps are definitely in order. I'm going to have to figure out how I'm going to mount this thing. I am now believing that the stock case is less than ideal.

I just can't figure out how so many are running the Quark without heat issues or adding caps.

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by AAngel

OK, I just ran the Quark with a total of four caps. I ran it for 5 minutes as though I was trying to break it. 50' sprints back and forth with the 9XL geared 13/46 with a maxamps 4S 8Ah pack.

The sink temped at 135, the center heat spreader was at 145, and the caps were at 150. The lead connectors were also at 150. I'm wondering if the power leads are heating up the capacitors or vise versa. I think that more caps are definitely in order. I'm going to have to figure out how I'm going to mount this thing. I am now believing that the stock case is less than ideal.

I just can't figure out how so many are running the Quark without heat issues or adding caps.

Looks not bad.

ppkkskskshhhh, no one having heat issues with the Quark?! :005:


Can you read any brand or markings on the stock caps? I would like to find out the specs on them.

The stock case is a piece if you ask me, no way for the heat to escape. I am getting so anxious for my Quark to get back, I want to get my new case machined up. I am still trying to figure out a good way to add caps to it that will secure them well.

150 for the caps is pretty good, they are rated for 221F operation. And 135 for the ESC is great as well.

[zeropointbug]

Oh, and I just realized that is quite dangerous with the female plugs on the esc, and male on the batts...