Quark fried, blown capacitor...

zpb, I did do the mod, but it is reversible. I've gotten the AA loose before, even from smt chips.

I wonder if there is anything on the controller that would be hurt by acetone. If not, that would be a good way of weakening the bond of the AA. I've used it to separate parts before. A good soaking in acetone overnight should do the trick.

The heat build up of the top set of FETs is still weighing on my mind. I'm going to have to wait and see how it runs. If the mod works as well for me as it has for everyone else, I should be OK.

As far as the Neu goes, I was hoping to hear the good ole "we've shipped you a new one already." Or better yet, "we are out of 1512s, how about a 1515 1Y or 2.5D." LOL

[zeropointbug]

What epoxy did you use then?

The heat build up on the tep FET's... like I said, any power bursts will have a larger temp differential than the average temp difference, so higher thermal transfer the better. But it is harder to do the top set i guess. The best way would to just use the case I designed really. You just apply thermal paste, and slide in on and clamp her down, there goes all heat sources down the sink. :005: HEAT sink that is.

LOL.

I used AA epoxy.

Don't tell me I bought the wrong thing again!

I bought this to bond the heatsink to my quark and to do the thermal mod to it. Please don't tell me that this stuff wont dry! I'm not doing good today...

Bye

[zeropointbug]

CG......... I'm so sorry. :002:

So... since this stuff wont dry, can I just blast it off with circuit board cleaner?

Bye:002:

You can just wipe it off and clean up with some denatured alchohol. I'd also stay away from anything with silver in it. The Arctic Alumina that many of us use is ceramic based and won't conduct or capacitate (is that a word? LOL).

[zeropointbug]

oh, you already applied it... then yes use 99% alcohol then with a cotton swab, or Q-tip, and get it clean, clean, clean. Keep rubbing until your cotton swab (keep replacing with clean one) is clear and NO sign of grey in it. Try and not get anything onto the FET's pins.

I am going to clean out my quark case and use it as the cap bank, and maybe use some AA i have to attach it to the case, if not CA glue.

I can't find any copper buss bar or anything, and I guess you can't really solder to aluminum, I might have to use 12Ga wire then. I am going to use 6 caps.

[BrianG]

Yeah, I guess that is a reason...

zpb, I used 1/8" copper tubing that I flattened in a vice. It works really well and is available at most hobby shops/hardware stores.

[zeropointbug]

Oh yeah, I just thought of that actually. I have 1/4 inch here, but maybe I'll go tomorrow and get some, that should provide a low resistance, low inductance channel for the caps.

Hey, I just told my machinist to mill this up so I can try it out. I have emailed Mike a couple times, but he hasn't responded. He must be very busy, I won't bother him with anymore.

The distance between it is 4.00mm, I squeezed the FET's with the caliper and that is that measurement I got with a good pressure, I thought.

Yeah, I've emailed Mike a few times and never got a response. With all of the emails that he gets, I suppose that he has to prioritize his responses and what you are talking about having done is way beyond milling a motor mount. It's probably going to require a 3D machine of some sort or someone on a mill with a lot of patience.

I removed the tape off my top FET heatsink and epoxied it hanging out to one side. (the FETS are a bit off to one side so this works well) Then I epoxied it to the side of the case when I did the bottom FETS. With no end caps I get air flow inside too.
My bottom Heat pad thingy looked the same off a NEW Quark, I thought my old one came apart, but looks like they are not 'seated in' right from the start.

I just got back from racing, used smaller tires after a 15 min haul my motor was 180* in spots, my Quark was 120*, batts barely warm. I think I will try to gear up to try to equalize my temps a bit. The nitro guys really took notice this time....

My CAP mahowk is doing fine. Its quite sturdy and in a well protected spot.


As for CAP placement, I dont think it was the extra wire that was a concern. I wish I could remember more, ( I cant find it now) but it was proximity to the FETS that was a concern. (I understand electronics and wiring, but this was something that didnt make sence at the time, and I just glanced over it.)

[zeropointbug]

They probably were talking about inductance? At higher frequencies that are present in these BL controllers, inductance must be noticed and accounted for.

Also, flat wire (or flattened copper pipe), buss bar, whatever has lower inductance, and resistance than round wire. This is because inside the wire (round), there are self induced eddy currents which turn into heat.

But no doubt your setup should perform very well, i am going to have to use the same setup for a while with the clamp thing, until I get the case machined.

[plumslow]

I know on brushed ESCs you can get a cap that is too large. I had problems thermaling a G-10 until I put a cap on it and the thermaling went away. People were supposed to had problems damaging the ESC by putting too large of a cap on it. I am sure that these ESCs are very different so this may not apply.