Quark fried, blown capacitor...

[zeropointbug]

So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

BTW, I was looking at my burnt up Quark, and noticed that the two negative leads on the two caps are broke, so there would be no connection. I am wondering if this had anything to do with it cogging (probably), but whether that would cause it to start on fire? :032:

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

BTW, I was looking at my burnt up Quark, and noticed that the two negative leads on the two caps are broke, so there would be no connection. I am wondering if this had anything to do with it cogging (probably), but whether that would cause it to start on fire? :032:

Wow, the caps effectively not being there could certainly cause the cogging. But, I think the burnt FETs was caused by the extreme currents during the cogging. A domino effect...

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Wow, the caps effectively not being there could certainly cause the cogging. But, I think the burnt FETs was caused by the extreme currents during the cogging. A domino effect...

Yeah, and maybe the cap I had on there (10,000uF, 25v) was not good enough for the Quark then? I was looking closer at the caps leads, I can't tell if they are melted off, or broken off, this doesn't make any sense?! :032:

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

It was with 4 caps. I haven't compared the performance with/without caps on the current 14/44 gearing, but I could. So, I don't currently know what the difference is. Although, the fan on the MM stopped spinning, and the MM was running very cool (118).

Originally Posted by AAngel

MetalMan, did the cogging problem get better as you increased the timing? The little note that came with my 1512 1.5Y says that the Neu is a four pole motor and it advises you to use "mild" timing. I'm sure that they are talking about helicopter controllers, so I'm wondering if helicopter controllers use the same timing curves as car controllers.

I first set my timing to lowest and cogging was rather nasty. I bumped it up to normal and it got better. I'm wondering if going to highest will be even better, but don't want to hurt my motor.

BTW, did you hardwire the motor? I'm using 5.5mm connectors, but will hardwire if it will make a difference.

I didn't have time to play with any settings at the track yesterday. My Revo had a problem that took a while to fix, and then the servo's wire ripped on the Hyper 8, then the heatsink on the Revo's MM came off, then I swapped the Revo's servo into the Hyper 8, and the Hyper 8's battery dumped. And then it was time to go home. Next time I can play around with the settings on the Hyper 8 and see if timing or startup power have any significant effects. The motor is hardwired.

If I were you, I wouldn't worry about setting the MM's startup power to high, considering how cool my MM was at the end of the run. Yours wouldn't be much warmer, I imagine.

When the heatsink came off of the Revo's MM, it did it very cleanly. None of the FETs were damaged, the epoxy just came apart. I plan on using some of the Arctic Aluminuma or whatever from the local computer place.