Quark fried, blown capacitor...

O.K. I've been out of town unexpectedly, so....


Zeropointbug- Do you still want the quark I killed????

I have read somewhere that having extra CAPS only works good if they are "on top of" the FETS- I also read somewhere that it is BAD to have the CAPS "very far from" the FETS. (something about extra resistance - I dont remember) These were posts from consumers, nothing official...

I put 4 caps directly on my board where the other 2 caps connect. (1 next to and 3 across from. yes they stick out the side...) I replaced the sticky pads with thermal epoxy, and epoxied the case to the rcmonster heatsink (no fan but it is connected to the chassis and gets good air flow)

I just set up my new NEU 1512 2.5D smooth can with a 6200 5S4P maxamps in my 8ight buggy with 13/46 - the quark setting are all hot (Its a bit jumpy, I'll probly soften the torque)

I ran it HARD and FAST (faster then that buggy has ever been) for about 30 min - Motor = 165* or so, Batteries = 110*, Quark = 145* (it was 94* weather)

Some tuning and a motor heatsink will only make it better!!:017:

Some pics of my mods...

the heatsink bolts into the frame at the engine mount holes (a bit of notching and it fits) the small piece of duct tape keeps the top cover from sliding forward...you can also see the CAPS are epoxied together (they are quite stable and fairly out of reach of the lid)




here you can see the notch in the side extends halfway across the bottom, exposing the solder point for the positive side of the CAPS and power input (otherwise this is unaccesable after the epoxy sets...) (yes i need new diff)





I like the low, centered COG with this install. The top 3 CAPS are along the center line and it all fits nicly under the top. Looks like I have a 'punk' Quark! (it has a mohawk)
Handling is spot-on and balance is very close. (need to change reciever pack and location for spot-on balance)