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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 5,139
Join Date: Sep 2006
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08.31.2007, 05:56 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyjr
How did you get 167 amps? If thats a Mr constructor truck, Does it have a center diff? or, is it like the TC3 (spur towards the rear)?
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That is a Mr. Constructor truck and the spur is a lot like the TC3 in the rear, but Mr. C put a slipper clutch there as well. Awesome truck. Here are 2 videos of it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6duAnWLQlJY (Forgot the crystal LOL)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpe_frO--Vw (That's my daughter playing soccer with her uncle, she's a ball hugger LOL)
The 167A are just spikes from full throttle. The batteries that I'm using are amazing. They are 25C rated and can handle 30C without a sweet and 50C bursts. I know it is similar to TP and FP, but with a big difference, they don't puff. They run cooler and deliver the power much better. I will be getting the 5000mAh packs hopefully by Wed.
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 522
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sussex, England.
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08.31.2007, 06:47 PM
what cells are those?
Hot Bodies Lightning 2 Pro carbon, Mega 22/30/2, MMM, 4s3-5Ah.
Tamiya F201 carbon, Mamba 7700, MM, 2s A123 2.3ah.
Xray XT8, 1518, MMM, 4s5Ah.
Lots of boats.
fastelectrics.net
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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08.31.2007, 07:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lutach
That is a Mr. Constructor truck and the spur is a lot like the TC3 in the rear, but Mr. C put a slipper clutch there as well. Awesome truck.
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Thats what i figured. I got mine in a Kyosho twinforce with a 2250 and 19/51 gearing, Even with 6s i can't get more than 124 amps with a center diff
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 5,139
Join Date: Sep 2006
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08.31.2007, 07:40 PM
The Schulze future-18.97KWF ran awful. Only 9 seconds and it stopped. Lets just say it has a little heating issue. One good thing I should mention, it is as smooth as the MGM on start ups.
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Guest
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08.31.2007, 08:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyjr
Thats what i figured. I got mine in a Kyosho twinforce with a 2250 and 19/51 gearing, Even with 6s i can't get more than 124 amps with a center diff
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Are you using the eagletree? I too have not been able to go beyond 124 amps with the eagle tree, IIRC it is only rated for 100 amps. I don't think that lutach is using an eagletree but some other power analyzer....
Bye
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 5,139
Join Date: Sep 2006
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08.31.2007, 10:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemetery gates
Are you using the eagletree? I too have not been able to go beyond 124 amps with the eagle tree, IIRC it is only rated for 100 amps. I don't think that lutach is using an eagletree but some other power analyzer....
Bye
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I'm using a BNB Products DPR-II-150. It is rated for 150, but it's reading beyond that all the time. Blaine from BNB also said, "The best way to measure high current is to add a calibrated shunt across the DPR's current sensor." Which I have no idea what it means.
Last edited by lutach; 09.01.2007 at 01:04 AM.
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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09.01.2007, 12:51 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lutach
I'm using a BNP Products DPR-II-150. It is rated for 150, but it's reading beyond that all the time. Blaine from BNP also said, "The best way to measure high current is to add a calibrated shunt across the DPR's current sensor." Which I have no idea what it means.
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What exactly is a DPR-II-150? Any links?
A shunt is simply a very low and very precise resistor placed in series between the source and the load. Usually looks like a thick wire. When current flows through it, a small voltage drop is generated, which can be measured with a simple voltmeter. The trouble is selecting the right size shunt value so that you can get a good reading, yet small enough not to suck up too much of your voltage. And then there is the power dissipation factor. I wouldn't want to drop more than 0.1v at 200A. Even at 0.1v and 200A, the shunt would have to be rated for at least 20w.
BTW: Eagletree does make an add-on sensor that measures up to 300A, but isn't explicitly said to be compatible with the micro e-logger. IIRC, it is for the other recorder unit.
Last edited by BrianG; 09.01.2007 at 12:53 AM.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 5,139
Join Date: Sep 2006
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09.01.2007, 01:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
What exactly is a DPR-II-150? Any links?
A shunt is simply a very low and very precise resistor placed in series between the source and the load. Usually looks like a thick wire. When current flows through it, a small voltage drop is generated, which can be measured with a simple voltmeter. The trouble is selecting the right size shunt value so that you can get a good reading, yet small enough not to suck up too much of your voltage. And then there is the power dissipation factor. I wouldn't want to drop more than 0.1v at 200A. Even at 0.1v and 200A, the shunt would have to be rated for at least 20w.
BTW: Eagletree does make an add-on sensor that measures up to 300A, but isn't explicitly said to be compatible with the micro e-logger. IIRC, it is for the other recorder unit.
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Brian,
It is BNB Products, I typed BNP. Here is the link: http://www.bnbproducts.com/
I have to admit, I was a little scared trying my Schulze 18.97KWF. Good thing it only thermaled. I reset it and it is working fine.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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08.31.2007, 10:22 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemetery gates
Are you using the eagletree? I too have not been able to go beyond 124 amps with the eagle tree, IIRC it is only rated for 100 amps. I don't think that lutach is using an eagletree but some other power analyzer....
Bye
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Yeah, a micro model
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
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