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Finnster
KillaHurtz
 
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09.05.2007, 11:46 AM

I originally used a hex key, but eventually sheared that so I redid it with a drillbit and it held up better. i bent/flattened the ends a bit and had no issues w/ them coming out. G/L
   
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JThiessen
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09.05.2007, 01:52 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnster View Post
I originally used a hex key, but eventually sheared that so I redid it with a drillbit and it held up better. i bent/flattened the ends a bit and had no issues w/ them coming out. G/L
So you guys that have replaced this shear pin with a different material, have you had any successive failures with any other parts "down stream" afterwards? I only question this because a shear pin has a function other than just holding two parts together. Its a designed failure mechanism.


Quote:
hopefully it never comes out!
so i took my front diffs last night and rebuilt it... wow... long job... about 3 hours probably lol... i drove it in my house last night because it was too dark and everything seems fine. i hope it all is because MANNN that was a long job.
I hear ya on that one. I had bought three different diff lubes to try, but after I got them apart, I made a firm and final decision that it was not going to be a trial and error thing. 90W it is!
On a more serious note, I'd do your diff's for you every weekend for that girl in your avitar.......


Losi 8T 1.0, Savage Flux - XL style, LST XXL, Muggy, 3.3 E-Revo Conversion and sitting outside 425hp, 831 Tq Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel. It SMOKES
   
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zeropointbug
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09.05.2007, 02:11 PM

I used a hard drill bit as well... once in there, I took each end to the grinding wheel to 'smudge' the bit in with the gear, so it would be impossible for it to come out.


“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
   
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Finnster
KillaHurtz
 
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09.05.2007, 02:50 PM

I don't think the rollpin was designed as a safety valve, I think its just a lame-o TRX design, good enough for titans (for a while at that.)

If anything, the weak 2mm diff screws are a breakpoint lol. I killed many stock diffs and sliders before the rollpin.

I really like my Revo, it quite tough compared to the Maxx, but I agree that TRX is prone to making lame/weak designs that need to be corrected with aftermarket parts, many of which TRX is smartly supplying. They are getting much better tho. the engineering has really come along way.

They make alot more money on supplying parts if the truck breaks just often enough not to push people away. The Revo is 95% perfect, its just a few little things like weak diffs and a few other odds and ends that need attention that quickly make a ~entry level truck make a high end truggy kit like a Mugen or Xray seem like a bargain after you get nickeled an dimed for little stuff.
   
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