MGM Programming problems

[BrianG]

Someone with decent writing skills ought to "decipher" the instructions and write a new manual just for us.

[jhautz]

Its actually pretty easy....

Here it is in a nutshell.

Turn on transmitter, plug in battery, Hold transmitter on full throttle, turn on switch, wait 10 sec for 3 beeps, move to full reverse, wait for beep, move to neutral, wait for 2 beeps.

now you are in programming mode.

now move the throttle to full reverse, wait for beeps, move back to neutral, wait for beeps. (you just selected option 1 for setting one.) move it to full reverse and back to neutral again for option 2, reverse & neutral again for option 3 etc…

Once you have done this ( for example reverse to neutral 5 times to select option 5) now pull the throttle to full forward, wait for beeps, now back to neutral. (You just set setting number one and it ready for you to set setting number 2)

Use the same method for option 2 (full reverse to neutral the number of times corresponding to the number of the option that you want) then full throttle forward to set it, and go to setting number 3.

And so on until you are done.

Once you get thorugh it one or twice its actually pretty easy.

[JPP]

Since I've been trying to program over and over again, I actually wound up writing out clearer instructions (similar to what jhautz just did) in Word. It reduced the stress level significantly (although not as much as if I had been able to program successfully!). That said, I've never had to do that with my Castle, Novak, or Quark controllers!

Incidentally, one other thing I noticed is that to get mine to recognize full throttle, full brake, and neutral, I have to set the throttle subtrim to somewhere between 15 and 25 (where, exactly, seems to be random, depending on the time I turn it on), and the EPA on brake to 10 (out of 100). I am able to leave the throttle EPA at 100. I'm running a Nomadio React, have 4 other vehicles on the same radio and have never had a similar problem. Is this normal?

JPP

[lutach]

Originally Posted by JPP

Since I've been trying to program over and over again, I actually wound up writing out clearer instructions (similar to what jhautz just did) in Word. It reduced the stress level significantly (although not as much as if I had been able to program successfully!). That said, I've never had to do that with my Castle, Novak, or Quark controllers!

Incidentally, one other thing I noticed is that to get mine to recognize full throttle, full brake, and neutral, I have to set the throttle subtrim to somewhere between 15 and 25 (where, exactly, seems to be random, depending on the time I turn it on), and the EPA on brake to 10 (out of 100). I am able to leave the throttle EPA at 100. I'm running a Nomadio React, have 4 other vehicles on the same radio and have never had a similar problem. Is this normal?

JPP

Your radio might be the one to blame. I just programmed my MGM with a JR and a Spektrum and the controller worked the same as it did with my Airtronics.

[JPP]

Originally Posted by lutach

Your radio might be the one to blame. I just programmed my MGM with a JR and a Spektrum and the controller worked the same as it did with my Airtronics.

I thought of that. For kicks, I tried using the Duratrax radio that came with my Vendetta, with similar results.

[lutach]

I thought my 8012 was a gonner when it did that, but just by doing the programming it was fixed. Did you try reprogramming the controller with the duratrax radio?

[JPP]

I thought I had but I'll try again tonight.

Originally Posted by JPP

Incidentally, one other thing I noticed is that to get mine to recognize full throttle, full brake, and neutral, I have to set the throttle subtrim to somewhere between 15 and 25 (where, exactly, seems to be random, depending on the time I turn it on), and the EPA on brake to 10 (out of 100). I am able to leave the throttle EPA at 100. I'm running a Nomadio React, have 4 other vehicles on the same radio and have never had a similar problem. Is this normal?

JPP

JPP did you ever resolve the throttle mid point problem? I have a similar issue where I need the midpoint to be recognised as OFF/Idle but the MGM will not program unless i use the full throttle/brake travel. This results in the mid point being half throttle and no brakes?

[JPP]

Unfortunately I had to put everything RC away for the past 2 months due to my wedding/honeymoon and home renovations. Probably won't be able to break the stuff out again for another month or so, by which time Tekin should be close to rolling out their R1MT and Castle their MMM. Or I may just switch to a MM with a UBEC and fans, since I'm just using 4s.

Incidentally, what radio are you using? Is it a Nomadio product?

STOOOOOOOPPPPPPPPPP your horror history of MGM controler
I'll suppose to recieve my 16018 tomorrow of friday, with the programing device, and i'am reading your smoking history with brend new MGM!!!!

I'll be very nervous to plug the batterie on mine.......

What happen with this $250.00++ controler??????

ope to not have any issue with mine.

Began to have somes regrets to not have take a Quark......

[JPP]

I understand the Quark has its own issues around cooling. As to the MGM, mine was repaired under warranty (although it took 6 weeks to get it back), and I view what happened as an aberration. The big problem as far as I'm concerned is the programming issue; I'm not the only one who has had issues with that.

Let us know how it goes.

Originally Posted by JPP

Unfortunately I had to put everything RC away for the past 2 months due to my wedding/honeymoon and home renovations. Probably won't be able to break the stuff out again for another month or so, by which time Tekin should be close to rolling out their R1MT and Castle their MMM. Or I may just switch to a MM with a UBEC and fans, since I'm just using 4s.

Incidentally, what radio are you using? Is it a Nomadio product?

On this setup we are using the stock Losi radio, I run the React on my E-LST2 which has a Hydra 120 ESC.

Finally sorted the issue. The TMM16016 is a Z-Series 'RB' ESC (Race Boat) which is not actually what I ordered. Key difference is that it only has Forward (no reverse or brake) which is fine for the LST2 so it expects different end/mid points. By offsetting the Throttle on the TX I can program it as documented and it behaves fine.

I did order the USB (and may order the Black box as well) but it is out of stock here in Australia so am stuck with the 'hit and miss' TX programming at present.

Main concern is that I have the Lipo 4S setup correctly, if I read the instructions correctly I think the ESC still does a check on the number of cells connected and fails to start if there is a mismatch?

PS There is no BEC on this model which is also OK as we continue to use the RX Battery anyway as most of the ESC's we have access too do not support 4S for the BEC, this also keeps the ESC temperature down so we will continue to use the RX Battery.

Main concern is that I have the Lipo 4S setup correctly, if I read the instructions correctly I think the ESC still does a check on the number of cells connected and fails to start if there is a mismatch?

Tell me something, at the first time that we use the controler, how the controler will know the number of li-po cells connect to him????
They need power to turn on, and we don't have the choice to plug any batt to the controler to fire up and can go into the programation to setup the parameters...
So at the first time you use the controler, if he don't recognise the number of cell and fails to start, how can we program it????