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DrKnow65
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10.24.2007, 03:03 PM

I'm going to keep the 330uf 35v caps for the board like GriffunRU suggested, would have gone with bigger caps or doubled up a 220uf for each leg but I think it would restrict the air flow too much. The 3-330uf caps are going to get mounted parallel with the center-line of the board horizontally, that will let the air flow straight from the front fan (blowing in) thru the heat sinks and straight into the back fan (pulling out). I am going to run 4 1800uf caps in parallel for the power supply of the board on the opposite side of the chassis- more for balance than actual function as GruffenRU thought 1 would be enough.

I have reconsidered only using thermal grease and no adhesive as I am concerned movement in the sink/board/sink/board pack might slowly displace the grease. So I'm going to go ahead and put adhesive on 1/2 of the outboard fet's to keep a good mechanical bond between the board and sinks. like Griffen did on the bottom plate style sink on his modded MM.

The total forcast cost of the esc mod (not including the $11 solder sucker i bought for this project) is $54 save the wire and deans connectors.

MM esc/5700kv combo $130 (used ebay)
XXXT roller $67 (used ebay)
Maxamps 8000hv 2s2p batt $147 (new)
CC Bec $24 (new)
Z9100S jr servo $114 (new)
Esc mod parts $54
Wire and connectors $57 +/-

Total cost to spank the neighbors PRICELESS hahaha ($600)

not bad considering almost half that is the battery and servo.


If I could only draw what I see in my head, then afford to build it, and finaly get to play with it...

Last edited by DrKnow65; 10.24.2007 at 03:06 PM.
   
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lincpimp
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10.24.2007, 05:08 PM

Gotta love the fact that you paid almost as much for the servo as the esc/motor. Not sure why you opted for a servo with that much power, a futaba 3050 or hitec 645 would work just as good on a 2wd vehicle. I actually have run a futaba 3003 ($10) on my stampede and cannot tell the difference to a 645. The only benefit is the metal gears as they can take a hit better than the plastic.
   
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DrKnow65
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10.24.2007, 11:58 PM

Lincpimp,
I wanted a fast jr metal gear servo (have had good luck with them) the z9000s has .06/128oz.in at 6v and found a few for $114, then found the z9100s .06/188oz.in for the same price. Figured it was overkill but there aren't that many MG servo's that will do .06sec. If I find that it's too quick or too strong I can always slow it down and adjust the end points with the 3pm-2.4ghz radio.

GriffenRU,
I finally got around to drawing up the wiring setup for the electronis. I did it by hand and you'll have to look at the website photo to desipher it. Sorry for the sloppy writing but if you note my signiture I have issues with the quality difference between what I invision in my head and what I can actually get onto paper... I have a good drawing program and a turbocad mechanical program but it would take quite a bit longer.

Anyone is welcome to look at it and let me know if I'm missing somthing or have a better way of keeping out RFI/EMI?

I am still flip/flopping on wether I will "tee" off the red power supply as illustrated, or run the batt power straight to the ESC then loop back to the 1800uF caps, BEC, ect...

Also I'm going to power the ESC fans with the ESC's internal BEC, I know when guys use the MM over 3s (11.1v) they disconnect the ESC-BEC from the receiver. Do you think it would still work for the fans at 4s? Or do you think it should be run by the CC BEC? I'd like to keep all the ESC (and fan) circuits isolated from the radio/servo items.

Too small version,


Good version, you'll have to click on "original" when you get there to see it clearly...photo #17... then click "original"
http://imageevent.com/drknow65/rccarstuff


If I could only draw what I see in my head, then afford to build it, and finaly get to play with it...

Last edited by DrKnow65; 10.25.2007 at 12:11 AM.
   
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