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Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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11.10.2007, 04:05 PM
Not sure if I am overworking the aveox? I have a feeling that the gearing is too high, it is too fast anyway so I will lower the gearing a little and see if that helps the temps. The batterys and the quark were barely warm. I can remember what that relates to, cold batteries and esc and hot motor, thought it was overgearing?
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Posts: 305
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
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11.10.2007, 07:45 PM
The clutch is hot because you are probably over geared, my Revo is setup 18/36 and my clutch never went above 120. Granted I am running a 9XL and you are using a 7XL, but still. Are your clutch shoes in the leading position? This will help a lot with the temps and the feel. As far as comments about this being a money issue I don't think so. A year of R&D from a company based around performance and durability shouldn't yeild a more cost effective product. Also using this setup takes a lot of pressure of off the electronics and keeps temps down, maybe people like a more direct feel, if that's the case go into the programming and adjust the throttle curve to be punchier. But coming out of a turn with this setup is super smooth and feels right.
Finally, if this isn't your cup of tea, then so be it. Skeptisism is understandable and who doesn't like to be an armchair engineer but no reason to bash on a new idea.
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Location: Slidell, LA
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11.10.2007, 07:55 PM
Actually I am running an aveox 36/30/1.5, very similar to a 2000kv L can feigao. I am running it on 5s lipo and am geared 15/40. I can go lower to a 14t clutchbell, but that is it. Other than that I can put the close ratio gearset in to lower the top speed. I will try it out again tonight and see hoow it runs. I have a feeling that the talons that I have on it are worn out and have too much sidewall play. This is causing some interesting high speed wandering/flips!
I also agree that being skeptic is ok, but until someone has tried out this setup for themselves it is hard to pass final judgement on it. It may be different but it seems to work well. I am just having trouble remembering that I do not have reverse!
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Posts: 305
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
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11.10.2007, 08:40 PM
Huh, I got the motors mixed up. Maybe if you drop down to a 4S pack, then your gearing may feel a bit better, and help out with the overheating clutch. Good luck!
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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11.10.2007, 08:54 PM
Nice Revos there!
Not to rag on you too much about the clutch thing, but not only is it a waste of power, but before the clutch kicks in, you are running the motor unloaded, which is bad.
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Location: San Diego, CA
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11.10.2007, 09:17 PM
It kicks in pretty quick, and once it engages you're not really losing anymore power, but I understand what you are saying. Also that unloaded spin up I believe will lower the amp spikes, plus your motor doesn't have to brake so that should save some power. I plan on doing a comparison with eagle tree records sometime this month, direct drive/motor brake vs clutch vs direct drive mech brakes. I know there are benefits to each but I'm really interested in some hard data. Hopefully I'll be able to get together with riceman and do this at Palomar Raceway.
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Location: Slidell, LA
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11.10.2007, 11:08 PM
I ran it again and the clutch stayed much cooler this time, maybe it needed to be broken in? Anyway it ran fine, and I must have a decently effecient system. My run last night lasted about 15mins and I pulled 1550mah from my 5s pack according to the charger. So a 5000mah pack should get me near 45mins of runtime!!! Not sure if it will but I will try to do an long run and see how it fares. Have to do some repairs as the inside pinion bearing in the rear diff lost is balls and it locked up the rear ring and pinion. It was a used truck when I got it and it had a big block in it too, so I am not suprised. Luckily the guy included a new set of diffs for me!!!
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RC-Monster Admin
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Location: Des Moines, IA
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11.10.2007, 11:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp
...lost is balls...
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Oooh, I HATE it when that happens.
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Location: Slidell, LA
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11.11.2007, 12:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Oooh, I HATE it when that happens. 
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It happens, what can you do?!
Anyway, ran the revo again, for about 40 mins total till the batteries started to fade. Temped everything and the motor was 135f, quark 115f, and the batteries were about 115f. The clutch was cool enought to touch, so I guess that it was wearing in when it was hot, and now seats better and is staying cooler. I am very happy with the temps, so I may leave the gearing where it is. I need to scare up a body for it, looking at a proline f450 body, they look cool. I may go thru it and change out the axles and the dust covers on the pivot balls as they look a little worn. Otherwise very happy with the conversion, and well worth the 130 I paid for it. I will install the sway bars next and see how they do. I may also mount the quark directly to the esc plate to act as a heatsink. All of my equipment is working well, and I would recommend any of it as high end.
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RC-Monster Mod
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SoCal
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02.10.2008, 12:30 AM
I ran the same front/rear diffs the WHOLE time when I had that truck, and even I got that truck used... It did handle well, but seeing as I never set up the suspension at all (and admittedly never changed the shock oil), it could have done better. The "slipperential" has a ratio of 2.2:1 (44t spur, 20t pinion, unless linc changed it).
With 100k oil, a wing (black Hellfire wing + Tekno wing mount), and extended wheelbase arms it could easily wheelie and sometimes flip over, but the front tires still got HUGE.
With another Revo in my possession that is still nitro, I have contemplated various conversion methods. There's the "slipperential" (I quote it because that word belongs to Mike IMO), center diff only, stock tranny (a route I would never take), direct-drive to diff outrunner, and this new dual-outrunner electronic diff idea I have thought of.
SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
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02.10.2008, 12:45 AM
How about a center diff with an outrunner with a pinion directly driving the diff, kind of like a truggy? On 5s an 800kv outrunner would do, with 20/46 gearing. Just an idea, I may try it out if i have enough parts to do it.
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RC-Monster Mod
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Location: SoCal
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02.10.2008, 12:50 AM
That setup has definitely crossed my mind (44t spur + 20-25t pinion), but I don't think any motors powerful enough for that setup have a high enough kv (bigger the motor, the lower the kv).
SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
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Location: Slidell, LA
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02.10.2008, 01:11 AM
Check this out: Century 650a Plus
It looks to be just the right motor, even has a 5mm shaft. It weighs more than the axi 4120 motors, and they are good enough to do direct to diff.
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RC-Monster Brushless
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02.10.2008, 01:20 AM
Yes! Those are the ones that I've been wondering about!!
They look tough and wound for power!
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Location: Slidell, LA
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02.10.2008, 01:30 AM
Find me a good price on that 800kv model and I will make a new revo to run it. I have at least 1/2 of the parts to make a revo, maybe more!
I only have about 6 unfinished vehicles, so I need a new project! LOL
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