Direct Drive to Diff E Revo Build - Page 19 - RC-Monster Forums

potreinas · 02:05 PM

WoW!!! how much power!!

Are you telling that the "Hot Bodies Spiral 10 tooth pinion" with the "Hot Bodies Front/Rear Hardened Diffs (43 tooth spiral ring type)" doens't resist the outrunner power??? AWESOME,

I bought a pair of hot bodies spiral diffs for my CRT because of I thought they were the best...

May I put the new 43/10 spiral ones ? or let the original 43/13 ones?

Thanks.

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by potreinas

WoW!!! how much power!!

Are you telling that the "Hot Bodies Spiral 10 tooth pinion" with the "Hot Bodies Front/Rear Hardened Diffs (43 tooth spiral ring type)" doens't resist the outrunner power??? AWESOME,

I buyed a pair of hot bodies spiral diffs for my CRT because of I thought they where the better...

May I put the new 43/10 spiral ones ? or let the original 43/13 ones?

Thanks.

Actually the gears themselves are super tough and really hard stuff. IF the bearings would hold up and keep the mesh right.

lincpimp · 01.20.2008, 08:21 PM

Ah, Sike makes his first appearance on camera! Is that grating sound the bearing coming apart? I had my stock diff revo do the same thing, the inside bearing let its balls go and it was making quite a crunching sound. I got the truck used so I have no idea how many runs were on that diff. I replaced it with another stock diff and have not had any issues yet.

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 08:44 PM

Here's yet another Vid

Mod Man · 01.20.2008, 08:16 PM

I think it should be possible to shim everything just right. That should eliminate the driveline issues.

Does your ESC have a ramp up feature? I set my HV110 to slow start and it helps keep from hammering the driveline.

Awesome power. Just awesome.

Matt

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mod Man

I think it should be possible to shim everything just right. That should eliminate the driveline issues.

Does your ESC have a ramp up feature? I set my HV110 to slow start and it helps keep from hammering the driveline.

Awesome power. Just awesome.

Matt

I did shim everything JUST right. It was perfect.

The spiral cut gears are punching the inside race right through the bearing.

I could lower the starting power some in the ESC setup.........I guess

Thanks.

Mod Man · 01.20.2008, 08:48 PM

Ahh, good deal. Sorry, I was not trying to offend you by suggesting the shimming. I haev just seen it so many times (poor shimming) that it is second nature to mention it.

Hey, how much room so you have for a thrust bearing? I can cut a CF washer on my CNC for you. CF has a very slick hard surface that works well as a thrust bearing when there is not enough depth for a normal thrust bearing. I have done it with decent success.

sikeston34m · 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mod Man

Ahh, good deal. Sorry, I was not trying to offend you by suggesting the shimming. I haev just seen it so many times (poor shimming) that it is second nature to mention it.

Hey, how much room so you have for a thrust bearing? I can cut a CF washer on my CNC for you. CF has a very slick hard surface that works well as a thrust bearing when there is not enough depth for a normal thrust bearing. I have done it with decent success.

The bearing itself is 8x14x4mm. Each Pinion uses two of them.

How it's setup now, the front pinion tries to push into the front diff, while the rear pinion tries to pull out of the diff.

Maybe just use CF on the load bearing side and a Ceramic Nitride bearing on the free wheeling side of the pinion. Think that would work? It sounds good.

Mod Man · 01.20.2008, 09:56 PM

You will still need a roller bearing on the pinion side. Two bearings are needed for proper input shaft support. I was wondering what teh clearance is between teh pinion and the bearing near it. If there is enough clearance there to put a CF or stainless washer there, that would work. Maybe a narrower roller bearing would provide the needed clearance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

The bearing itself is 8x14x4mm. Each Pinion uses two of them.

How it's setup now, the front pinion tries to push into the front diff, while the rear pinion tries to pull out of the diff.

Maybe just use CF on the load bearing side and a Ceramic Nitride bearing on the free wheeling side of the pinion. Think that would work? It sounds good.

sikeston34m · 01.20.2008, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mod Man

You will still need a roller bearing on the pinion side. Two bearings are needed for proper input shaft support. I was wondering what teh clearance is between teh pinion and the bearing near it. If there is enough clearance there to put a CF or stainless washer there, that would work. Maybe a narrower roller bearing would provide the needed clearance.

I currently have 3 - .2mm shims there right now. It makes the mesh just right.

Mod Man · 01.20.2008, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

I currently have 3 - .2mm shims there right now. It makes the mesh just right.

You will need at least 1.5mm CF wafer to act as a decent thrust bearing. If there is any way to run a narrower bearing there, you could add a thrust washer and that would most likely work.

suicideneil · 01.21.2008, 06:37 PM

Stupid as this may sound, but would a carefully shimmed bushing resist falling apart any better? I know they are rather poor for high speed applications, but since they are a solid piece of metal there isnt anything to break as such...

Those videos really do belong on BYT, Im sure the guys would appreciate seeing how powerful BL power is when its done right- love that truck.

sikeston34m · 01.21.2008, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Stupid as this may sound, but would a carefully shimmed bushing resist falling apart any better? I know they are rather poor for high speed applications, but since they are a solid piece of metal there isnt anything to break as such...

Those videos really do belong on BYT, Im sure the guys would appreciate seeing how powerful BL power is when its done right- love that truck.

I'm not sure if a bushing would work better or not. We're dealing with really huge side AND thrust loads at that point.

Thanks for the Compliements.

I'm trying to reprocess on the setup actually. Is there a way to eliminate the ring and pinion? We've just about eliminated everything else with this setup.

How about a center mounted motor that spins the front and rear spider cups with a ribbed drive belt? Such as seen in alot of on road cars. I wonder how tough the belt setup is?

Hmmmmmmm.............thinking thinking

lincpimp · 01.21.2008, 07:10 PM

I am sure that the secondary drive belt from a harley would be able to hold up to the power, may be a bit overkill though...

You could do a chain drive, put some hardened steel spur gears on the diff cups, and use a bicycle chain, that is the correct size (would have to be smaller than the bicycle chain, but you get the idea). Then drive the center of the chain with another steel gear that mount to the motor. Only problem may be the sizes of the gears. You currently have 10/43 gearing. Finding a slightly larger steel spur for the diffs will not be an issue, a 46 would work and not be too big. But you would have to use an 11t pinion on the motor and somehow make sure the chain would stay in contact, maybe some spring loaded idlers? Sounding kind off complicated now. Maybe investigate the possibility of a needle roller bearing in the correct size?

Mod Man · 01.21.2008, 07:15 PM

A bushing would not be a bad idea. It would require alot of lube and need replacement often. But, hey, a top fueller needs maintenance from time to time!