Direct Drive to Diff E Revo Build

[sikeston34m]

I think this Cap setup would work for 10S Lipo too!

[zeropointbug]

This looks great Sike!

If I may state MHO, I would think of moving the esc around right in front of the cap bank to take advantage of such a massive cap.

BTW, those caps look awfully small for being 820uF/50v, they seem like they should be bigger than that?

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

This looks great Sike!

If I may state MHO, I would think of moving the esc around right in front of the cap bank to take advantage of such a massive cap.

BTW, those caps look awfully small for being 820uF/50v, they seem like they should be bigger than that?

They are stamped Nichicon 820uf @ 50 volts. You can see it in the picture there. There's another number on them, HO129 I couldn't find the spec sheets on them. I got them from a speed controller for a 36 volt forklift.

I considered using another Nichicon style that I have here. They are 1000uf @ 63 volts HO110 But in reading your discussions (many others were involvled too) about ESR values and Transient Response times. I opted for the 820's.

After a 10 minute test run, everything was cool. I could hardly tell the ESC had been ran and the motor was stone cold.

[sikeston34m]

She's still in rough form, got some tidying up to do. But I couldn't resist seeing it run. I strapped in 4S Lipo setup (2S2P each at 10,000mah) and took it outside.

She runs pretty good, but there is much tweaking to be done. It will cog on startup if I am too quick with the throttle. If I ease into it, it starts fine. After I let it roll up to about 10mph or so, I can stab the throttle and it slings gravel and tops out quickly. Top end on this configuration is about 30 to 35mph. She needs more voltage! It's pulling a really high gear. More voltage will increase the motor torque dramatically and broaden the rpm range. It will also raise the top end speed alot.

I'm having a programming issue with the Quark also. I can't seem to get it to go into Advanced programming mode! I feel like I need to set it to "outrunner" mode. This will increase torque and make it start much better.

It doesn't matter which trigger sequence I use, (min-Max......or Max-Min) it slips into Basic Programming mode. What am I doing wrong?

Here's a pic with the Lipo's in place. I'm going to try 6S2P A123 next. Gotta get the receiver pack out.

[zeropointbug]

WOW! So does it run smooth and quiet besides the minor cogging? I agree that turning it to 'outrunner' will probably treat the cogging issue. I hope you get the programming figured out..

Move throttle to 'min' position...
Turn 'on' esc switch...
Press and hold the esc program button and move the throttle to 'max' and hold..
Release the program button after 2-3 seconds...
Now move the throttle until you hear recognition beep...

You should have entered advanced programming mode... the LED pattern should be the two inside LED's (green and yellow), move the throttle to change, yada yada yada.

[zeropointbug]

Yeah, that esc mount must suck a good amount of heat away from the esc.

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

WOW! So does it run smooth and quiet besides the minor cogging? I agree that turning it to 'outrunner' will probably treat the cogging issue. I hope you get the programming figured out..

Move throttle to 'min' position...
Turn 'on' esc switch...
Press and hold the esc program button and move the throttle to 'max' and hold..
Release the program button after 2-3 seconds...
Now move the throttle until you hear recognition beep...

You should have entered advanced programming mode... the LED pattern should be the two inside LED's (green and yellow), move the throttle to change, yada yada yada.

It runs VERY smooth and VERY quiet. The tire noise is louder than the motor unless I slip off into the grass.

It needs programming and More voltage. I'm gonna be working on those two things next.

Are these good caps? Do you know where to find the spec sheets? I tried the HO number on the nichicon website with no luck.

[sikeston34m]

With using Aluminum for the motor mount and the ESC mount. The whole thing is acting like a heat sink, even to the chassis.

I really think it's going to take some major voltage before heat becomes an issue.