Quark Monster Pro 125 and Lipoly Setting

[mabu]

Hi,

can somebody tell me what's the exact difference on the settings "Lipoly Normal" and "Lipoly High"?
Does the controller limit the voltage at setting "Lipoly Normal"?

I am running a Neu 1515 1y with this controller in a E-Revo converted with the teknorc conversion powered by a 4s Kokam H5 3200 lipoly. The transmission is 16/38 with wide ration.

I did a first run today and the motor began to stutter when the Revo switched into the second gear. I set up the controller at "Lipoly Normal". Is it possible that this setting causes this attitude?

Do you think it's ok/safe to use Lipoly High at this setup?

Thanks :)

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by mabu

Hi,

can somebody tell me what's the exact difference on the settings "Lipoly Normal" and "Lipoly High"?
Does the controller limit the voltage at setting "Lipoly Normal"?

I am running a Neu 1515 1y with this controller in a E-Revo converted with the teknorc conversion powered by a 4s Kokam H5 3200 lipoly. The transmission is 16/38 with wide ration.

I did a first run today and the motor began to stutter when the Revo switched into the second gear. I set up the controller at "Lipoly Normal". Is it possible that this setting causes this attitude?

Do you think it's ok/safe to use Lipoly High at this setup?

Thanks :)

What's the "C" rating on your Lipo?

The way I understand this setting, on Lipoly Norml, it will limit the amount of Amps it allows the motor to pull in order to take it easy on the batteries. It doesn't limit the voltage, but it does limit the amps. I'm sure this is the source of the "stuttering", since second gear will pull more amps at WOT.

In Lipoly High, the ESC allows the motor to pull as much amperage as the load/throttle setting dictates.

I always set mine to "Manual" then choose 3.0v per cell cut-off in the next setting. This allows free amperage flow with a conservative cutoff.

[mabu]

The current rate of the lipo is 30C continuous and 50C temporary.

I will try the "Manual" setting at the next run with 3V cut off

[zeropointbug]

You have to change both the manual cut-off AND lipo high OR lipo normal.... you have to do the programming twice.

[mabu]

Thanks ... yesterday i did two runs - now it's amazing

At the end of the second test run the car stopped. So i thought the LVC protection was on.
But today i loaded the 3200mA Lipo and loaded only 1600mA... i wanted to do another run to make a video - the motor did a well for about 2 minutes .. afterwards the motor stopped like yesterday. This time the LVC protection could not be on ... I checked the voltage per cell at my loader - 3.8V per cell.

I dissambled the motor and the motor spin well, after some stop and go the motor did not start like yesterday and the "video run" today.

What can i do now?
The motor is not locked or grinded anywhere - i hold it in my hand of cource ;)

[Patrick]

I've had 2 quarks that a motor wire has fallen out of. Maybe check that all the connections are still good. Did the motor look like it was trying to move or just do nothing at all. If you didn't notice it before I wouldn't test it again until you know all the connections are good, it could damage something.

[mabu]

The connections are all ok, the motor tried to do something.

Yesterday i removed the clibs i had used on the motor wires - now the problem seems to be solved...

[Patrick]

Originally Posted by mabu

The connections are all ok, the motor tried to do something.

Yesterday i removed the clibs i had used on the motor wires - now the problem seems to be solved...

If the motor moved, but didn't spin, then it sounds like 2 wires are ok and the 3rd one has an open circuit somewhere down the line.

What do you mean you "removed the clibs i had used on the motor wires" ? Did you remove the plugs and solder the wires instead?

[mabu]

I used cable clips to bind the motor wires together - just to clean up all the wires...

May be i should solder the plugs once again too ... just to be sure that these were not the real problem!

[Patrick]

So your using plugs to join the motor wires to the esc wires and just using the cable ties to keep all three wires in a neat bunch? Your not using the cable ties to hold the wires together?

Have you bent the motor wires around much? The stiff wires on the neu's don't like to be bent back and forth other wise the wire might break inside the insulation. Taking the cable ties off might have let the broken wire move and reconnect inside, just a thought. It does sound like a bad connector or broken wire somewhere to me, hopefully it's just a connection.

[mabu]

Oh no ... a broken wire in the motor wires would be worse :(