Modded Mamba Max Testing!!

[Revracer]

where do you send it to get that done?

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by Revracer

where do you send it to get that done?

PM griffinru and he can do the mods for you. He does excellent work, looks like factory.

I have not tried it on 5s yet. I am currently building a few different vehicles that will give me the chance to try it out. It worked well on 4s, so I am optimistic on 5s.

[mustbnitro]

Someone help me out on this one...

I recieved my Mamba Max today and besides having to dremel cut a screwdriver slot in a case screw because the head was stripped from the factory, I was satisfied.

Now I bought 3 35V 330 micro farad caps, a 1800 micro farad cap, 1 zener diode as linked to in that one post from digi-key. I also bought a small sheet of brass, artic alum thermal compound and epoxy, all added up quickly! I was planning on doing the stage one mod outlined in another post myself since I'm fairly good with building circuits.

-Now the stock MM has 3 330 25V caps, will I gain anything by switching to the 35V caps?

-Is it worth cracking it open to replace to diode or do all of the greasing and backing with brass?

-Also, are the stock motor leads (13 AWG) fine with the Feigao and the stock connectors as well?

-I was checking out that wiring diagram link n the forum, is it best to tap the UBEC off of the ESC or battery connector(ESC side of course). Next, it shows an optional 1000 micro farad cap in the 3rd channel of the rx, I'm running a CC UBEC, is that needed? I don't see how though, also my transponder goes there.

I am running this in a truggy on 4s with a Feigao 9XL, the only reason I was planning on doing this was to keep temps low on 15 minute mains. My whole goal with the mod was to keep temps LOW. I am going to run dual novak fans I bought as well (they look cool to which is always a plus).

Thanks!

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by mustbnitro

Someone help me out on this one...

I am running this in a truggy on 4s with a Feigao 9XL, the only reason I was planning on doing this was to keep temps low on 15 minute mains. My whole goal with the mod was to keep temps LOW. I am going to run dual novak fans I bought as well (they look cool to which is always a plus).

Thanks!

I am guessing that you are trying to perform griffinru's stage 1 mod. If so the need for fans may not be necessary. I ran my 1/8 buggy with a feigal 7xl, geared for 40mph, and a 10000mah 4s lipo (=very heavy) with a modded mm and a regular mm. The unmodded mm did need a fan and temps were still a little on the high side. With the modded mm I did not need the fan and the overall performance was much better. Since you are running a truggy, the added tire weight will put more strain on the motor and cause more heat at the motor, that may be of more concern than the esc, however the hotter motor will cause the esc to heat up due to higher current draw for wasted power production (heat).

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by mustbnitro

-Now the stock MM has 3 330 25V caps, will I gain anything by switching to the 35V caps?

Like what was said, a little more voltage headroom. You should size a cap to have at least 25% more voltage than what you plan to use. Can't forget that the back-EMF pulses will be higher than the battery voltage too. The only thing you lose with larger voltage caps (assuming you keep the same capacitance) is physical room.

Originally Posted by mustbnitro

-Also, are the stock motor leads (13 AWG) fine with the Feigao and the stock connectors as well?

Larger wire is always better for less v-drop at high current (less resistance). If you are gonna be pulling higher currents, either direct-solder the wires, or use larger connectors for the same reason.

Originally Posted by mustbnitro

-I was checking out that wiring diagram link n the forum, is it best to tap the UBEC off of the ESC or battery connector(ESC side of course). Next, it shows an optional 1000 micro farad cap in the 3rd channel of the rx, I'm running a CC UBEC, is that needed? I don't see how though, also my transponder goes there.

Not sure it makes much difference since they are the same point electrically. Maybe a little less noise if tapped closer to the battery, but think the difference is negligible IMO.

The 1000uF cap is there to help smoothen out any UBEC switching noise from entering on the power line and to help with the current bursts the servos can pull. Helps to make for a more constant current flow.

Originally Posted by mustbnitro

I am running this in a truggy on 4s with a Feigao 9XL, the only reason I was planning on doing this was to keep temps low on 15 minute mains. My whole goal with the mod was to keep temps LOW. I am going to run dual novak fans I bought as well (they look cool to which is always a plus).

I personally HATE fans, especially if you are counting on them to keep things cool. They can break, get dirty (which wears the bearings), and just adds wiring complexity. I also hate temps over 130*F, so I always simply add a little more heatsinking, but if gearing is optimal, there shouldn't be excessive heat.