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Countryhick
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01.03.2008, 10:18 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by myndseye View Post
I had considered that when making my suggestion of the A123s. The first thing you need to address would be the power output match of a typical 8th in the small space that you are afforded for your conversion. I was looking around at the various batteries currently out, with your dimensions in mind, and nothing to meet your needs exists. The only hope you have would seem to be something you can quick change, akin to a fuel stop for a typical 8th. I don't really have accurate figures to go from, but it would seem that battery sizes (physically), are about 1 to 1 in runtime with the size of a gas tank when power output is that high. A typical 8th doesn't run that long without needing to be refilled, but I'd bet that if the tank was as large as a 6s high capacity battery, it could run that long.

Sorry myndseye, I made an error in my measurement of available battery space. It should of read like this.

H 27 mm
W 100 mm
L 160 mm

This is the available space under the radio tray. I still haven't decided where to locate the batteries. I'm also thinking if I use 3 seperate 2s1p 5000 mAh packs to get my 6s I can also use these packs individually for racing my 1/10 on-road. Mounting 3 seperate packs on the car wont be fun but at-least I will still be able to use the packs after the nitro 1/8 drivers ban me from racing, because I'm overtaking them down the straights.
   
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cemetery gates
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01.03.2008, 10:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Countryhick View Post
Sorry myndseye, I made an error in my measurement of available battery space. It should of read like this.

H 27 mm
W 100 mm
L 160 mm

This is the available space under the radio tray. I still haven't decided where to locate the batteries. I'm also thinking if I use 3 seperate 2s1p 5000 mAh packs to get my 6s I can also use these packs individually for racing my 1/10 on-road. Mounting 3 seperate packs on the car wont be fun but at-least I will still be able to use the packs after the nitro 1/8 drivers ban me from racing, because I'm overtaking them down the straights.
Uhm, why don't you use 2 3s1p maxamps 5Ah lipos?
http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-5000-111-Pack.htm
They are 45mm X 138mm X 26mm so no need for 3 separate packs, only two...

Bye
   
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Countryhick
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01.03.2008, 10:39 PM

I race 1/10 electric on-road usually and the 2s packs are the only ones I can use under the current rules. So if I use 3 x 2s packs I can use them in my 1/10 and 1/8 (just better bang for my buck). Looks like I'm going to run these. http://www.trakpower.com/
   
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Countryhick
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01.05.2008, 09:31 AM

I now have a good idea of the hardware I need. Now I need to look at chargers and balancers. I have one of these already (only good for 4s I believe) http://www.robitronic.eu/elements/ap...erloader_e.pdf
1. What is going to be my best option for charging 3 separate "Trakpower" 2s packs at the same time?

2. I would like to get a balancer at the same time.

Recommendations please

Cheers Andrew
   
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BrianG
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01.08.2008, 10:45 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Countryhick View Post
I now have a good idea of the hardware I need. Now I need to look at chargers and balancers. I have one of these already (only good for 4s I believe) http://www.robitronic.eu/elements/ap...erloader_e.pdf
1. What is going to be my best option for charging 3 separate "Trakpower" 2s packs at the same time?

2. I would like to get a balancer at the same time.

Recommendations please

Cheers Andrew
The charger in your link is good for up to 4s. Are you wanting to charge all three packs in series, or seperately? If in series, a single 6s capable charger and a balancer like the LBA10 will work fine. You'll just have to make a special type of Y charge and balance adaptor.

Sorry, can't help on the 1512 dimensions...
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Countryhick
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01.08.2008, 05:14 PM

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Originally Posted by BrianG View Post
I didn't, but I just whipped one up specifically for you.



The green circles are to show where you should zip tie the balancer leads to the main harness leads. The red wires with the gray ends show where those wires should either be removed from the connector, or put some heatshrink on them.

Hope it's not too confusing, but all I could come up with in a few minutes...
You mean like this Brian?

Last edited by Countryhick; 01.08.2008 at 07:58 PM.
   
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Countryhick
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01.17.2008, 11:38 PM

Progress is going well. I have made up some temporary battery trays (I'm going to make the permanent ones from CF) from 3mm alloy, I'm going to take to them with a drill to reduce some weight this weekend. I have attached a pic with the tray and my fake batteries (my 3 X NEU 2S1C 5000 mAh are in the mail) as you can see it looks like the L/R weights should be close. I will know more when the packs arrive.

I have also attached a pic (far left) of my temporary motor mount system (it hasn't been line bored or machined for weight reduction) it is a simple band clamp setup for testing only, the permanent one which I have nearly finished deigning will be CNC'd and include a integrated 12 fin heatsink and will still be a band type clamp. It will use the original 21 size motor mount bolt holes as well. A friend is going to transfer my hard copy to CAD so if anyone in the industry knows what format I need to give the machining shop please let me know.

Still waiting on the motor (NEU 1512 1.5y/s) to become available from Mike's shop so I can order the speed control and motor at the same time. Hopefully they arrive soon so I can get this thing up and running.
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