MGM Low Voltage Cut Off - Owners READ

Originally Posted by david lamontagn

Hey BashOn, did we have to put a little note on the box to explain the reason why we send it back the controller??

And what about the shipping fees when MGM will return back the controller to us?? MGM will return it for free???

The fact to put a customs value under $15 is very dengerous, because if the controler is lost in mail, you lost it....

BUT... if it's the curent fuse protection the problem in this controller, why not just use it in race mod with an external li-saver?????????

They did not say anything about return shipping. I did include a note with my address to ship it back and my email address just incase they need to contact me. Also make sure you put on the note why you sent it to them. I guess if they need payment for return shipping they will let me know.

You could certainly go with the setup you are talking about. Race mode with an external lipo cutoff. The better choice sounds like to set the controller in NiMH mode and leave the setting on cutoff (good idea jhautz). This way the MGM lipo cutoff is disabled but the over current protection is still in place.

BashOn,

Thanks for that address. You had the problem with your MGM and a bit of white smoke, yes ? Mine did exactly the same. It worked find for quite some time, aside from the "lvc issue" (turns out, LVC is not the problem), and strange issues with freewheel setting. I changed it into race mode, and ran through a pack with no problems. I was heading out of town for the weekend so I charged the lipo's to a safe storage voltage and left everything disconnected. When I got back into town and topped off the batteries, I got everything all plugged in. Just before heading out to run, ppppffffffffffffftttt and a good bit of white smoke.

As it turns out, I found the controller still worked but with no BEC. I had to run it with a reciever pack or UBEC. It worked fine that way for about a week, and then it burned some fets. Bummer.

[Sparky]

I’m not a big fan of the MGM because it is very difficult to setup. I can’t wait for the MMM. I have my system running good after 2 month of tuning. I finished 7 out of about 40 people in the sportsman class last week. I made it to the A-Main. In my heats I went 3,2,2.

Here are a few tips of what my problems were. I’m still tuning.

Problem = Braking and neutral and throttle control.
Solution= This was the big one for me. I had a hard time defining the real issues
It boils down to trigger calibration. If you have a digital radio, make sure you set the EPA to 120% throttle and 120% brake. And recalibrate you radio. Also you need to set your MGM neutral @ about 6% or 9%. And the Freewheel should be set to YES.
Don’t for get to Auto tune after changing any settings.

Problem= My MGM would cut out about haft way throttle
Solution= Set controller to reduce RPM. I had my gearing way to hi.
I’m running 6S 22.2 volt so my gearing ended up at 13/46 with a Neu 1512 2.5d
I think most peoples real problem is gearing! My MGM cut out like crazy until I got the gearing right. Also you should end up with a gearing that you set the throttle EPA back about 10% to 20%. This will help with heat build up if you are running 30 min mains like me. This will help you keep from using 100% of the available power out of your motor. Which is ok but not for long durations. Use a temp gun for this setting after a 30min run.

See link for more info
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...=rc8+brushless

[bdebde]

Yeah, UPS overseas is ridiculously expensive, I always use USPS. Sucks to have to send it in though! No ESC for a couple months, and spring right around the corner!

Damn it! I just ordered a MGM 16018 off Mike. Looks like I just lucked out on the revised edition. Oh well at least it appears MGM are quick to resolve the issue and the ability to update via USB is a great move.

I inquired about the return shipping costs and MGM mentioned that it will be at their own cost. We only need to pay for the shipment from us to them. Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by fkadir

I inquired about the return shipping costs and MGM mentioned that it will be at their own cost. We only need to pay for the shipment from us to them. Hope that helps.

Yes, thank you. I've send an email to MGM yesteday night about that, i'll wit for reply just to see if they will tell me the same thing.

But another thing about MGM vontroller, why so much guys here smoke their MGM??? Not sure if it's the curent protection or MGM is simply not much good they are suppose to be......

Look at this from BashOn, it's very frustrating!! No???

Son of a !@$#%#@!^!!!!!

Glad I got that off my chest...

I just went to take my Savage out. Setup the controller to reduce RPM, 6s Lipo (my lipo savaer won't be in for a few days) and Auto Tune. First attempt had to run home and get some pliers because the slipper was just spinning. Tightened slipper, hooked up battery, put on body and set her down. Pulled the throttle a bit and I hear a nice sizzling sound and poof, there is something coming out....

Stop the truck, pull the lid, cut the power. I plugged it back up to my laptop to see if it would connect (I have no idea why it mattered) and it did, settings were there and still correct.

My MGM is toast! I am so frustrated!! I guess I'll have to ship it off and maybe get it back by the end of summer.

It is so strange because literally nothing changed except I tightened the slipper. When it fried I was just softly starting it, not the usual throttle induced wheelie.

[hobbimaster]

Sparky, Those EPA settings you posted did the trick! I set my new DX3R EPA to 120% forward and brake, and 9% on the ESC for neutral settings. Now when I let off the throttle it will coast like it is supposed to, not brake sometimes like it was. Drove me nuts trying to get rid of the erratic behavior!
I had posted before that I run in NiMh mode and I really didnt know if my LVC worked correctly. I ran a test to see if my LVC would act like some are reporting on this thread. So I set it at 4 cell, and Cut-off on the ESC. Then put my ol Orion 15C 4800's and had a go. I must report it didnt cut out at WOT, and I did try to open her up alot to create this LVC, or over current protection kicking in like MGM is suggesting. It ran absolutely fine, maybe mine has newer software 3.12 I believe, bought it in Jan of this year. My gearing is conservative at 20T pinion and stock 68T spur. I'm just wondering I were to go to a 24T pinion and run it harder if it would then exhibit the same cut-out. Dont know, Just makes me wonder if the problems some are having can be fixed by a gearing change, instead of shipping it off to MGM for a possible lengthy return time, and absolutely no guarantee it will solve all the problems.

Mine is the 3.11 version, and i'll send it to MGM tomorow morning. And you know what??? I don't have try it yet, because it their have lot of snow outdoor, but i did't take any chance and sent it to MGM to have the new SW ersion before the begining of the next summer.

Hey Hobbymaster, do you run it in Ni-Mh mode or in li-po mode, 4s cutoff?????

Your's seam to run fine, but if you'are in Ni-Mh mode, it's normal that it run fine, but you don't have nay protection for our li-po pack.

[potreinas]

Originally Posted by hobbimaster

Sparky, Those EPA settings you posted did the trick! I set my new DX3R EPA to 120% forward and brake, and 9% on the ESC for neutral settings. Now when I let off the throttle it will coast like it is supposed to, not brake sometimes like it was. Drove me nuts trying to get rid of the erratic behavior!
.

My problem is with unregular aceleration with some incontrolated brakes, I tryed more than 50 different configurations, and I have some issues, If I do some 100% forward and neutral I have no problems, it's very smooth like my quark 125b, ¡¡¡¡ BUT !!!! just when I brake or go into reverse... it starts doing the rare cogging or not as smooth as before braking, with some involuntary braking. to not have this problem I can power off and restart it, and it works well until not breake is used.

If I put freewheel in NO, it just run well, but.. the motor brakes at the same time I'm letting the throttle to neutral! and I don't like this.

My actual configuration is :

jammin crt with 43/10 front/rear diffs
46T spur 14T pinion
6s1p A123
neu 1512/2Y
tests without wheels (on the air)


Controller Name 12018-3 CARs
controller version: 3.14 (bought 1 month ago)
last change: 11/01/08
poles:4
gear ratio:1
type model: <=|=>
brake: light2 / 0.26
acceleration: 0,26
timing:automat
race mode
batt type: nicd (to use lipo and a123 without reconfiguration (beeps)
range neutral: 9%
automatic correction of neutral: NO
freewheel: YES

I need HELP.

Now.. I prefer my super smooth quark 125b than my mgm12018,

ah, when I use my align 600XL... the involuntary braking when you let the trigger into neutral is awesome, it breaks my plastic spur gear tooth.

someone want a little used mgm 12020???

note: sorry about my bad english

[hobbimaster]

potreinas, Did you try EPA settings 120% Forward and reverse? Once I did this the instant braking at times of neutral stopped. You have to recalibrate your ESC to your TX radio after making these adjustments.
Yes, I was running it in lipo cutoff mode, 4s cutoff to be exact. What doesnt make sence is that my Orions are only 15C, while guys on here are running much more powerful batts. I would have thought LVC might start acting up, or when I was giving it WOT to try to get the over current protection to kick in like MGM has suggested. I guess only time will tell when guys start getting them back from repair if it worked out or not.
I do like the idea of being able to down load the most current version of SW. I wonder why the ESC must go back in? Isnt it more of a software update like castle puts out? I would think if you already have the USB and PC it could be easily done.

[Sparky]

Originally Posted by hobbimaster

Sparky, Those EPA settings you posted did the trick! I set my new DX3R EPA to 120% forward and brake, and 9% on the ESC for neutral settings. Now when I let off the throttle it will coast like it is supposed to, not brake sometimes like it was. Drove me nuts trying to get rid of the erratic behavior!
I had posted before that I run in NiMh mode and I really didnt know if my LVC worked correctly. I ran a test to see if my LVC would act like some are reporting on this thread. So I set it at 4 cell, and Cut-off on the ESC. Then put my ol Orion 15C 4800's and had a go. I must report it didnt cut out at WOT, and I did try to open her up alot to create this LVC, or over current protection kicking in like MGM is suggesting. It ran absolutely fine, maybe mine has newer software 3.12 I believe, bought it in Jan of this year. My gearing is conservative at 20T pinion and stock 68T spur. I'm just wondering I were to go to a 24T pinion and run it harder if it would then exhibit the same cut-out. Dont know, Just makes me wonder if the problems some are having can be fixed by a gearing change, instead of shipping it off to MGM for a possible lengthy return time, and absolutely no guarantee it will solve all the problems.

If it isn’t cutting out on the 20T you can always try a high gear. The gearing is best set by the motor temp. Most motors should stay below 165F after a run. You can keep going up on your gearing until you reach this point.

Hey guys, if you send you controller to MGM, don't forget to send your USBCOM+ device with you controller if you want to have the opportunity to upgrade the new version in the future with ou PC... IT'S NECESSARY

My ESC is on version 3.14 and it also affected by the overprotection bug. Seems to affect a wide range of FW version.

Yeah, funny how they didnt mentioned that on the emails I have been sending/receiving from them.