MGM Low Voltage Cut Off - Owners READ

I inquired about the return shipping costs and MGM mentioned that it will be at their own cost. We only need to pay for the shipment from us to them. Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by fkadir

I inquired about the return shipping costs and MGM mentioned that it will be at their own cost. We only need to pay for the shipment from us to them. Hope that helps.

Yes, thank you. I've send an email to MGM yesteday night about that, i'll wit for reply just to see if they will tell me the same thing.

But another thing about MGM vontroller, why so much guys here smoke their MGM??? Not sure if it's the curent protection or MGM is simply not much good they are suppose to be......

Look at this from BashOn, it's very frustrating!! No???

Son of a !@$#%#@!^!!!!!

Glad I got that off my chest...

I just went to take my Savage out. Setup the controller to reduce RPM, 6s Lipo (my lipo savaer won't be in for a few days) and Auto Tune. First attempt had to run home and get some pliers because the slipper was just spinning. Tightened slipper, hooked up battery, put on body and set her down. Pulled the throttle a bit and I hear a nice sizzling sound and poof, there is something coming out....

Stop the truck, pull the lid, cut the power. I plugged it back up to my laptop to see if it would connect (I have no idea why it mattered) and it did, settings were there and still correct.

My MGM is toast! I am so frustrated!! I guess I'll have to ship it off and maybe get it back by the end of summer.

It is so strange because literally nothing changed except I tightened the slipper. When it fried I was just softly starting it, not the usual throttle induced wheelie.

[hobbimaster]

Sparky, Those EPA settings you posted did the trick! I set my new DX3R EPA to 120% forward and brake, and 9% on the ESC for neutral settings. Now when I let off the throttle it will coast like it is supposed to, not brake sometimes like it was. Drove me nuts trying to get rid of the erratic behavior!
I had posted before that I run in NiMh mode and I really didnt know if my LVC worked correctly. I ran a test to see if my LVC would act like some are reporting on this thread. So I set it at 4 cell, and Cut-off on the ESC. Then put my ol Orion 15C 4800's and had a go. I must report it didnt cut out at WOT, and I did try to open her up alot to create this LVC, or over current protection kicking in like MGM is suggesting. It ran absolutely fine, maybe mine has newer software 3.12 I believe, bought it in Jan of this year. My gearing is conservative at 20T pinion and stock 68T spur. I'm just wondering I were to go to a 24T pinion and run it harder if it would then exhibit the same cut-out. Dont know, Just makes me wonder if the problems some are having can be fixed by a gearing change, instead of shipping it off to MGM for a possible lengthy return time, and absolutely no guarantee it will solve all the problems.

Mine is the 3.11 version, and i'll send it to MGM tomorow morning. And you know what??? I don't have try it yet, because it their have lot of snow outdoor, but i did't take any chance and sent it to MGM to have the new SW ersion before the begining of the next summer.

Hey Hobbymaster, do you run it in Ni-Mh mode or in li-po mode, 4s cutoff?????

Your's seam to run fine, but if you'are in Ni-Mh mode, it's normal that it run fine, but you don't have nay protection for our li-po pack.

[potreinas]

Originally Posted by hobbimaster

Sparky, Those EPA settings you posted did the trick! I set my new DX3R EPA to 120% forward and brake, and 9% on the ESC for neutral settings. Now when I let off the throttle it will coast like it is supposed to, not brake sometimes like it was. Drove me nuts trying to get rid of the erratic behavior!
.

My problem is with unregular aceleration with some incontrolated brakes, I tryed more than 50 different configurations, and I have some issues, If I do some 100% forward and neutral I have no problems, it's very smooth like my quark 125b, ¡¡¡¡ BUT !!!! just when I brake or go into reverse... it starts doing the rare cogging or not as smooth as before braking, with some involuntary braking. to not have this problem I can power off and restart it, and it works well until not breake is used.

If I put freewheel in NO, it just run well, but.. the motor brakes at the same time I'm letting the throttle to neutral! and I don't like this.

My actual configuration is :

jammin crt with 43/10 front/rear diffs
46T spur 14T pinion
6s1p A123
neu 1512/2Y
tests without wheels (on the air)


Controller Name 12018-3 CARs
controller version: 3.14 (bought 1 month ago)
last change: 11/01/08
poles:4
gear ratio:1
type model: <=|=>
brake: light2 / 0.26
acceleration: 0,26
timing:automat
race mode
batt type: nicd (to use lipo and a123 without reconfiguration (beeps)
range neutral: 9%
automatic correction of neutral: NO
freewheel: YES

I need HELP.

Now.. I prefer my super smooth quark 125b than my mgm12018,

ah, when I use my align 600XL... the involuntary braking when you let the trigger into neutral is awesome, it breaks my plastic spur gear tooth.

someone want a little used mgm 12020???

note: sorry about my bad english

[hobbimaster]

potreinas, Did you try EPA settings 120% Forward and reverse? Once I did this the instant braking at times of neutral stopped. You have to recalibrate your ESC to your TX radio after making these adjustments.
Yes, I was running it in lipo cutoff mode, 4s cutoff to be exact. What doesnt make sence is that my Orions are only 15C, while guys on here are running much more powerful batts. I would have thought LVC might start acting up, or when I was giving it WOT to try to get the over current protection to kick in like MGM has suggested. I guess only time will tell when guys start getting them back from repair if it worked out or not.
I do like the idea of being able to down load the most current version of SW. I wonder why the ESC must go back in? Isnt it more of a software update like castle puts out? I would think if you already have the USB and PC it could be easily done.

I realy don't know why we have to send back the controller to MGM to have the opportunity of download the new version in the controler, but i think that the SW version is not "downloadable" from our PC. Maybe MGM have to do a special thing to the controller, and after that this SW version is in the controller, we can download any future version.

My 16018 is in the mail, i've send it back to MGM this morning, with a litle $15.00 writen on the box
Hope this thing will not lost in mail

[potreinas]

Originally Posted by hobbimaster

potreinas, Did you try EPA settings 120% Forward and reverse? Once I did this the instant braking at times of neutral stopped. You have to recalibrate your ESC to your TX radio after making these adjustments.
.

Yes, I tried this too, 120% f/b epa, recalibrate the esc to radio, and also recalibrate mi 3pk radio. it reduced the bad effect in a 40% or less, but it still does the same instant braking ( always after braking or going into reverse).
I tried with a feigao 6xl, 12xl, neu 1512, neu 1521, align 600xl and all does the same, the 600xl the most one.

[Sparky]

Originally Posted by hobbimaster

Sparky, Those EPA settings you posted did the trick! I set my new DX3R EPA to 120% forward and brake, and 9% on the ESC for neutral settings. Now when I let off the throttle it will coast like it is supposed to, not brake sometimes like it was. Drove me nuts trying to get rid of the erratic behavior!
I had posted before that I run in NiMh mode and I really didnt know if my LVC worked correctly. I ran a test to see if my LVC would act like some are reporting on this thread. So I set it at 4 cell, and Cut-off on the ESC. Then put my ol Orion 15C 4800's and had a go. I must report it didnt cut out at WOT, and I did try to open her up alot to create this LVC, or over current protection kicking in like MGM is suggesting. It ran absolutely fine, maybe mine has newer software 3.12 I believe, bought it in Jan of this year. My gearing is conservative at 20T pinion and stock 68T spur. I'm just wondering I were to go to a 24T pinion and run it harder if it would then exhibit the same cut-out. Dont know, Just makes me wonder if the problems some are having can be fixed by a gearing change, instead of shipping it off to MGM for a possible lengthy return time, and absolutely no guarantee it will solve all the problems.

If it isn’t cutting out on the 20T you can always try a high gear. The gearing is best set by the motor temp. Most motors should stay below 165F after a run. You can keep going up on your gearing until you reach this point.

Hey guys, if you send you controller to MGM, don't forget to send your USBCOM+ device with you controller if you want to have the opportunity to upgrade the new version in the future with ou PC... IT'S NECESSARY

Originally Posted by david lamontagn

Hey guys, if you send you controller to MGM, don't forget to send your USBCOM+ device with you controller if you want to have the opportunity to upgrade the new version in the future with ou PC... IT'S NECESSARY

That sucks, mine left a couple days ago. I guess I'll get them to send me a new one, obviously I'll have to pay. OUCH!

[jacobsjo87]

So you just have to send the cord with the controller? I there anything else that needs to be sent with it?