LS2P Completed

Good to know it is common. The steering arms on the LS2P are aluminum and I don't want to spend $60 every time the pin eats one so it looks like I'll be pulling the CV's and using a combination of loc-tite and heatshrink to keep the pin from slipping out again.

[lincpimp]

Do the pins have a small flat area for the set screw to tighten onto? If not make a flat area with a file and it will help the screw stay put. That, loctite, and the heatshrink should do the trick!

I have a LSP with a 8xl, mm and 4s trakpowers, i would recommend going to 50k if not 100k in the center, 30 didn't really do much for the front unloading; mine still unloads with 100K if i get on it.

Do you have any problems with the mm overheating with that fan on it?

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Do the pins have a small flat area for the set screw to tighten onto? If not make a flat area with a file and it will help the screw stay put. That, loctite, and the heatshrink should do the trick!

NO, it actually uses a pin with a set screw on the end to capture it. So you put the pin in the slot, and then the set screw follows it right in, plugging the hole. This is for the LSP CVD's, I don't know if thats been changed in the LS2P. Here was what handled the steering on my old LSP. :)



Waited so long for HB to fix the original LSP issues that like others I went to kyosho front end parts.

7.5 CNC hub carriers, cnc knuckles, sportwerks hubs, and Losi LST axles. nothing EVER broke on the front of my truck again combined with the LSP aluminum a-arms, and 6mm custom front arms holder.

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Do the pins have a small flat area for the set screw to tighten onto? If not make a flat area with a file and it will help the screw stay put. That, loctite, and the heatshrink should do the trick!

Looks like I need to take it apart tonight and verify the updated manual on the LS2P matches what was done. When I found the pin slipped out I just temporarily pushed it back in. In the exploded view of the supplemental manual they show the pin has a notch in it and the set screw goes in at the end of the barrel. These are new CV part numbers and appear to be somewhat different from the old part number as they had a set screw going in on th end of the CV to capture the cross pin in the middle for the 17mm hubs.

Many of the new part numbers aren't available for ordering yet so I'm hoping I don't do too much more damage until they are out there.

Lower left of page 3 shows the exploded view of the CV. http://www.hbeurope.com/manuals/66786.pdf

Originally Posted by elegal

I have a LSP with a 8xl, mm and 4s trakpowers, i would recommend going to 50k if not 100k in the center, 30 didn't really do much for the front unloading; mine still unloads with 100K if i get on it.

Do you have any problems with the mm overheating with that fan on it?

I may need to order more diff fluid then. I only ordered up to 30K at the hobby shop. I considered going with trakpowers but a offer came up for 2 neu batteries for a good price and I went for it.

So far I have not had any problems with the MM or 8XL overheating but I might not have pushed it as hard as you yet. Temps were around 120 after about 10 minutes of running (not on a track) just to get a feel for it. It's geared for about 38mph so I'm hoping it will stay under control. Timing is set to low and punch control is medium if I remember correctly.