Diff questions

Sav diffs suffer same prob as T or EMaxx - the plastic lets the diff twist slightly under load and this lets ring and pinion pull away from each other and eventually strip or blow out.

Usual solution is same - stiffen assembly so it cant twist under load. Alum diff cup, metal diff case and eventually metal bulks. I upgraded my 4.6SS to Nova 7075 diff cups, gpm alum diff cases and alum bulks. Sav diff cup may not be as critical as in a TEMaxx where the 2mm screws just cant handle the shear load, but I went ahead and changed anyway. No more diff trouble with the stock 4.6, a 27Picco or Axial 32, but nitro doesn't have that instaneous BL torque either. Here's a shim reference-

http://savage-central.com/modules.ph...wtopic&t=55122

[JERRY2KONE]

I am sure that you know my thoughts on the matter linc, but I always say go for the gusto and build it to last. If you want something that will not break then get rid of the plastic weak point that is giving you trouble and put some metal beef in that thing. You love the raw power of your toys, thats why you always put those gigantic motors in them. So you either need to improve the material integrity or lower your power plant.

[lincpimp]

Duster - Many thanks for the info. I bought a pair of flm 7075 diff cups from Mike last night, so I will give them a try. I will also shim the diffs in the stock cases and see how they do.

Jerry - I know, go big or stay home! If I do buy the hybrid bulks, they will go on the flm tranny forward, as I am running cen genesis wheels/tires and those things are heavy! I am sure that the stock diff housings will not hold up to that!

I am using this savage to figure out the strong and weak points so that I can upgrade the other savage. The other truck will be heavier, so it needs strong parts!

In my experience with my big and heavy extended savage aluminum diff cups, with shims and 4 gear diff takes care of the problem. My savage wouldnt handle my axial .32 I ran in it for two years without the upgrades.

I now have been running my savage with a 7XL and 4s and sometimes 5s lipo and the diffs are holding up fine even with the slipper tighten all the way with a metal spur gear. In two years of racing and bashing I only blew the front diff out once with my setup, and that was because I had the throttle pegged and ran into a nasty wall at high speeds. Gotta let go of the throttle when your going to run your front wheel into something hard & fast

I also recommend locking the tranny in second gear, it wont take long before you to break some tranny gears when that sudden power from a brushless motor slams the tranny when shifting from 1st to 2nd.

When the tranny is locked in second and the diffs are shimmed & aluminum diff cups the savage drivetrain is easily as strong as any buggy / truggy that I have used in my experience.

[_paralyzed_]

after all the upgrades (alum. cups, diff housings and bulkheads, 4 spiders shimmed) i found the weak link to be the pinion shaft bearings, they went and I ended up shearing diffs, I haven't had that problem since I ran bocas on the pinion, its the only place I use spendy bearings, but so far they've held up to the o.s. .30